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Most likely the auto locking hubs have popped a snap ring and the splines are not engaged in the hub. Manual hubs are the solution.
 

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+1 - Could be the Auto Hubs.
Either way...start with the simple stuff and work you're way deeper.
Take your hand off the shift lever, pull the hubs, and check the works before you do anything else...otherwise, you'll just chew up the splines more if the snap rings have popped off ! :shock:
By the way, (and not to thread jack) I have a spare set of Aisins...PM me if you're interested.
 

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I don't believe there is any relationship between the 4x engagement lighted symbol and the hubs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
when i got the rs the 4wd worked and the light came on and all that. it needed new front breaks and i had a friend of a friend that is a mechanic that was out of work so i had him change the pads a new rotor and wheel berrings. then the motor died as i knew it would. thats why i got a deal on it. so replaced motor clutch basicly everything under the hood is new. tried out the 4wd for ****s and giggles and thats when i found out it was not working. so i guess i will put the manual lockers on it and see what happens. any thing else i should check out shooter?
 

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You state the hubs engaged prior to the work and all was well. Normally, when the clip breaks or is pushed off the shaft, a distinct clicking / popping sound will be heard when 4x is engaged. That sound originates from the shaft splines not being engaged to all the splines inside the hub due to the shaft no longer being tightly held inside the hub with the clip. Over time, the spline on the shaft will wear smooth from the abnormal rotation. Pull both hub bodies and examine for the clip. You might need to wipe some grease away to see the clips. If the clips are in place, the hub/shaft mating function should be ok. That will then lead you to the transfer case of which I have zero knowledge. You didn't mention any feel of binding when engaging low or high therefore I assume there is none.
 

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Before you tear into the hubs try this first:
engine off, t-case in 2wd, crawl under the truck, try to turn the front drive shaft. It should rotate about 1/2 turn or so either direction and then lock up. If it does then both auto hubs have engaged. If it doesn't watch the CV axles, the one (or both) that are turning has a hub that isn't engaging, probably a snap ring problem. To insure the t-case is actually going into 4wd try turning the front driveshaft with it in 4wd hi & lo- it should essentially not turn except for a couple degrees gear slop.
I think the 4wd indicator is activated by a wire connection on the tranny/t-case, if you had it out replacing the clutch the wire probably didn't get re-connected.
 

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Come to think of it, the end of the CV shaft will usually back out of the hub and rattle around in there every time you hit a bump if the snap ring has popped off. ( ask me how I know about that sound... :lol: )

Perform the test that oldestisuzuist suggested.
In addition, grab the end of each CV axle and pull it toward the engine.
If the snap rings have popped off, you will usually be able to pull the CV axle out far enough to create space between the CV shaft and the knuckle it passes through to engage with the rotor and hub assembly.

As for 4x4 light...I'd begin by making sure that the 4x4 Indicator Switch is present, that the wiring is intact, and that the linkage moves as expected.

Beyond that, I'd have to defer to the experts here to help you sort out the deeper issues that may be present.
I'm not sure what could have been disturbed when the engine and clutch were replaced that could render your 4 wheel drive inoperative.

This may provide others with more clues though...did you remove the transmission with the engine, or did you perform the engine swap with the trans left in the truck ?
 

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In addition...If you find that the snap rings have popped off (which is a sign of weakness) , be sure to clean the grooves really well to make sure that the new ones seat well on the shaft and replace the rings.
The 26mm or 1" snap rings will fit tightly.
Just be sure to face the "sharper" edge of the ring toward the wheel if there is one.
It will bite the groove better than the other side which is often slightly rounded off.
 

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Cool - that should give the experts some extra information to work with if the snap rings don't turn out to be the issue.
I'll check my messages and get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yeah i guess its the snap rings, and the rubber boots are split. gonna order some new ones and put them on when i get the manual hubs from oregon. so i was running out of daylight does anyone know where the 4x4 switch/dash light indicator thing is located? is it on top of the transfer case on the drivers side? saw something that might be it.
 

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golden_eel said:
yeah i guess its the snap rings, and the rubber boots are split. gonna order some new ones and put them on when i get the manual hubs from oregon. so i was running out of daylight does anyone know where the 4x4 switch/dash light indicator thing is located? is it on top of the transfer case on the drivers side? saw something that might be it.
See the illustration. Item #34. Top, rearward of shifter. The wires/connector at the switch appear to be of a short length, therefore, also check the next connection in the circuit. That might be where the mechanic disconnected the harness and perhaps did not reconnect it.

 

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It doesnt matter that the light its not on when you engage 4h or 4L the deal its why its not working, you can try with wheels on ground and gearbox in neutral to turn the front driveshaft, so if you have Auto hubs they should engage and you will not be able to turn the shaft after maybe one turn, if you are able to turn it several times so you have a problem with your hubs, then start dissasembly.

Good Luck!!

Ps. As Shooter says pretty sure that the light doesnt lit because the sender in the transfer case its disconected
 

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golden_eel said:
i ordered my new boots and my hubs should be here soon. anything else i should do while iam changing out that stuff?
Bearings and seals; replace or clean and pack them. While you're that deep into it al, I'd give a good check of upper/lower ball joints and other suspension components.
 
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