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4L30E Transmission Record

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6.8K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  SurferJoe  
#1 ·
So we have one for the motor why not the tranny.

Since I'm not an admin I can't create a real poll. Maybe after enough responses one of the admins can make this official. So here goes. List how long it lasted in years/mileage. Not the rebuild but the *ORIGINAL* factory tranny. What type of driving (towing, offroading, muddin, rock crawlin, racing, jeeping, creeping, daily driving, etc) and what type of maintenance was performed. Also give your year and model.

So here is mine
2002 Rodeo sport 113K. Never towed just daily work commute. Fluid/Filter by dealer around 40K (when range sensor went out). Indy shop at 80k. A botched job by another indy at 100K. Filter/fluid again at 100k and fluid just recently. Filter change is averaging about 40K and fluid is around 30k.
 
#3 ·
History on my 2 rodeo's with the 4L30; both trucks have *ORIGINAL* transmission 100%, have had a life of heavy 2-4,000lb towing of boats, trailers, daily driving, as well as Colorado mountain driving, off-roading, etc.

Both trucks get drain/refills every 10-12k miles/yearly; both trucks get new filters every 30k, neither truck has an aftermarket cooler.

The 91 rodeo has 355k miles, running 31x10.50 tires (stock size for that model)

The 97 rodeo has 205k miles, running LT265/75 16's (2 sizes bigger then stock size for that model)
 
#4 ·
Ramblin Fever said:
What do you mean by *Indy shop*? Was yours rebuilt at 80k?
I brought it in to have the filter replaced. They just dropped the pan and replaced the filter. They did a good job. The second time around I took it in and they messed it all up. Striped the pan bolts, under filled it. It was then that I redid the job and have been doing myself ever since.
 
#6 ·
My 2002 now has 113K mi on it. Drain and fill by local indy (independent) shop at purchase time with 45K mi. Flush and refill at time of accumulator piston replacement at ~85K at dealer. Since then, I have become more aware of the transmission longevity issues with this car, and drain and fill every 20k mi. Also have installed an inline filter. 5 or 6 Sierra trips every year, occasional towing light trailer/atv's. 2 or 3 off pavement excursions a year ( not rock crawling!) Remember that your owner's manual suggests changing the fluid every 20k mi under "severe driving" conditions. Surprisingly, those conditions include:
operating on dusty, rough, muddy or salt spread roads
extensive idling and/or low speed driving for long distances such as police, taxi or door-to-door delivery use
repeated trips of less than 8km(5 mi) with outside temparature remaining below freezing
towing a trailer, using a camper or cartop carrier
Note that much of this is just what you would buy a 4wd SUV like this to do.
 
#7 ·
2003 Jackaroo.
first box went after i bought it at 90k.(it was 7yrs old when i got it ) Had box done under warranty ,10k or 12 months.Box dropped its guts at 8k and 12.5 months so no warranty. Spent $3700 for the rebuild in August 2010 and still going strong today. I drop the oil every six months and i am running two oil coolers as well as a ten inch thermo on the cooler on the outside of the radiator. Temp gauge plumbed into high pressure line to keep an eye on temps.Sits on 65 degrees c. on free way and 100 degrees c. in traffic. Have done 82k on this box.
 
#8 ·
1999 Rodeo. Had never had the fluid/filter changed until about a year after I bought it, I think around 116k. Then I neglected to change it again till a little while ago (really just completely forgot about it) at 144k. Runs like it should, no slipping, no complaints. I did have a weird shift one time a week or two back, but that was while I was grossly neglecting it pulling a trailer that was fairly close to 4400 lbs. Just hit 150k the other week. I don't drive it much more only sees about 20 miles a week now.
 
#9 ·
1993 trooper, bought it in 2006 at around 118k, replace the ATF and filter at 125k, then put a cooler at 150k, changed ATF and filter again in 2010 at 160k, , right now 181k still running good,
I would probably do the ATF soon, what is the recommended ATF and filter change time interval ???

and also at normal the trans fluid runs at about 150~180 degree F, and my trooper sucks at uphill, it would hit to 210 degree on uphills.. what are the normal temperature range for transmission fluid?
sometimes have to use the truck lane on highway unless go with 2nd gear 5000 rpm... I have 265/75R16 tire now which slows the acceleration a bit.
 
#11 ·
WillyLin said:
1993 trooper, bought it in 2006 at around 118k, replace the ATF and filter at 125k, then put a cooler at 150k, changed ATF and filter again in 2010 at 160k, , right now 181k still running good,
I would probably do the ATF soon, what is the recommended ATF and filter change time interval ???

and also at normal the trans fluid runs at about 150~180 degree F, and my trooper sucks at uphill, it would hit to 210 degree on uphills.. what are the normal temperature range for transmission fluid?
sometimes have to use the truck lane on highway unless go with 2nd gear 5000 rpm... I have 265/75R16 tire now which slows the acceleration a bit.
Normal transmission temperature is supposed to be at about 180Âş to 200ÂşF.

Under that it is harming the soft rubber parts since the plasticizers in the ATF aren't working at those low temperatures.

You can run to 250ÂşF if you don't do it for long, too often and don't shut it down until it cools down again.

Repeatedly getting over 250Âş is harmful to the unit - but mostly because the modern fluids don't have the lubricity factors of whale oil like the old ATFs had.

Resist the urge (and good intentions by people who are misinformed) that you should put a cooler after the radiator. Doing so will cool the fluid too much and that's about the same as overheating it.

Always (if you are so inclined to install one) put any auxiliary transmission coolers BEFORE the fluid gets to the radiator/heat exchanger, so the fluid's at LEAST at coolant temperature (your thermostat in the engine is a 180ÂşF - right?) when it returns to the unit.
 
#12 ·
Yup, mines being rebuilt now. The radiator went out and mixed water into the unit and the 3rd clutch pack disintegrated. Caught it early but couldn't exchange the fluid fast enough. Bottled what atf came out and sent it to the shop with the truck.

The shop did a pressure a test. Pressure was perfect. No codes. The pan was filthy. I just dropped it a few months ago, so they are opening it up. Will see tomorrow when they disassemble. Shop owner invited me for some hands on with the unit.

Some questions for the experts
- External cooler: Shop is recommending just bypassing the intercoller completely and going with a remote filter and cooler. I asked about cold temp performance as Joe mentioned. Since I live in central tx where temps *rarely* get below 40 is this ok? I always give it a 5min warmup in the morning even when it's 90 outside. Will this suffice?

- Upgrades: Never liked how the TCC would release during coasting. Can the computer be upgraded to keep this locked? What about upgraded valve bodies and shift kits and such? Any value or wishfull thinking

- Asked about a 5 speed swap. He said he's price it out. With inspection/emissions being the way it is he's not confident about the electrical side of it being cost effective.

I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions. So help me out guys! Yeah, and it's worse then getting kicked in the balls first time you feel that slip

Oh and..
10 yrs 114k miles. ;)
 
#13 ·
Some questions for the experts
- External cooler: Shop is recommending just bypassing the intercoller completely and going with a remote filter and cooler. I asked about cold temp performance as Joe mentioned. Since I live in central tx where temps *rarely* get below 40 is this ok? I always give it a 5min warmup in the morning even when it's 90 outside. Will this suffice?

No it will not suffice to let it idle for two hours even. It has to work and create it's own heat to get the fluid up to temp and have the plasticizers go to work at keeping your rubber parts soft and pliable. if you want to maximize your investment, the 'shop' is wrong on a few points.

The best thing to do is start it and get rolling, but do it gently for the first 1/2 mile or so. That's the best way to get the fluids circulating. Then drive it for more than five miles before you shut it off.

You may not be able to drive that far every time, but that's the best thing for the engine, transmission, the exhaust system and for the lubed parts like the differential(s) and wheel bearings.

And here's something nobody thinks of: the shock absorbers need to warm up too.

In the old days, ignorant people (and even today 'shop' owners who should know better and mechanics of the olde school mentality) also ran without thermostats. That just ruined more engines with sludge and corruption to the iron parts with water that rusted things since the oil couldn't boil out the condensate.

Modern engines run at near to 200ÂşF for good reason: fuel economy, parts tolerances and their dimensional stability, emissions control, power and performance, engine/transmission lifespan and lube oil life.

It matters not what the outside temps are - the transmission has to get to 180ÂşF to work correctly.

ATF at 200ÂşF is not out of the picture either, since it has an easier time expelling moisture and corrosion at that temperature.

Totally bypassing the radiator heat exchanger (it's NOT a cooler) will not allow the coolant temp to re-warm the fluid to the same temp as the cooling system thermostat has it running at. That would be a very ignorant thing to say. let alone do to a customer.

If you really want to install an auxiliary cooler, put it in the flow before the heat exchanger to cut the thermal load on the cooling system. That's the best installation.

You may get away with it otherwise, but if you want to get the most out of your unit, don't chill it too much.


- Upgrades: Never liked how the TCC would release during coasting. Can the computer be upgraded to keep this locked? What about upgraded valve bodies and shift kits and such? Any value or wishfull thinking

The TCC is not supposed to release during coast. That usually means that the sprag is shot.

- Asked about a 5 speed swap. He said he's price it out. With inspection/emissions being the way it is he's not confident about the electrical side of it being cost effective.

Which state are you in? If it's California or another nanny state, you can fail if the smog inspector detects that you've changed the unit and it's not talking to the ECM. I failed them for that all the time, so it's not unheard of nor is it not detectable.

I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions. So help me out guys! Yeah, and it's worse then getting kicked in the balls first time you feel that slip

Oh and..
10 yrs 114k miles. ;)
 
#14 ·
Thanks Joe. I'll have him put the cooler before the radiator. What about the remote filter, does it matter where it's installed? I'm thinking at the tranny outlet before the coolers to keep debris out of the plumbing.

The TCC is not supposed to release during coast. That usually means that the sprag is shot.
Is this sprag in the converter with the lockup clutch or are you referring to the one way clutch? I want to get my hands on it and confirm.

Also could you give me you opinion on shift kits and what not. I've always loved the feel of the shift. Firm and defined, but anything that can increase longevity of the unit I will consider.

Thanks
-Rob
 
#15 ·
If you get a rebuilt converter, it will have the new sprag in it - and you can test it's effect if you happen to have a spare input shaft available to you. Just insert it into the converter and even though you cannot activate the clutch, you'll fel the drag of the new sprag in one but not the other direction.

In any situation, I'd prefer to NOT get the newest bad idea of having a Kevlar friction material clutch in it - it requires too much fluid pressure to hook up and the front pump is max'd out just making the trans work in the first place. Any more taxing of that incredibly weak and poorly designed pump will shorten it's life a lot.

'Shift Kit' is a registered trademark/name by Gil Younger, whom I have had the extreme privilege of meeting in his (and my) early days of building transmissions.He had a project going on called: "Operation Bootstrap" concerning the THM 700R4 units that were not living very long after the warranty from GM expired and he worked on it until he got it right.

I still have some of the very yellow and grease stained hand-written notes he and I sent back and forth to each other in @ 1969 or so.

He made - don't know if currently so - a pretty good shift improvement kit for the 4L and 3L versions of that transmission, and they weren't just an improvement, they also created a lot of reliability too.

A legal Trans-Go 'Shift Kit' will be green and white with Gil's smiling face on the box exterior. Accept no substitutes.

You won't ever get a crisp shift from this unit --- as there's too much monkey motion in it and it should be congratulated for just finding the next gear, not chirping the tires.

Your 4L unit is a sore spot to a lot of shops for several reasons: (but don't despair, it can work for many years and miles)

New parts are as rare as a whore in church

Used parts are worn out in non-obvious places that really count, and although there are repairs for them available, they are very expensive.

There are a lot of vague ideas about what these units can do, but the weakest link is that rotten OD unit in front of the rest of the unit. Bad place to put it is an understatement.

GM really screwed this unit by prostituting their designs and working with OPEL/NSU/BMW engineers on it too. This unit was on multiple shelves for many years, just gathering dust and taking up space when some idiot with a slide rule talked the bean counters into putting it into Isuzus and a few other LIGHT WEIGHT vehicles.

The co-mingling of ideas and the whipping by the accountants produced a real illegitimate child, fathered by two sets of ideas mitigated by expenses and cost over-runs.

EVERY one of these units has a built-in demon who will break it, keep it from driving out of the shop and/or screw up shift patterns and reliability many times over. It may not work well after the (first) (second) (third) rebuild if the bench guy doesn't look carefully at all the ring and shaft stators and hubs that need perfect seals to keep the fluid leaks to a minimum. Remember that this front pump is at it's peak capacity already, and if there's the tiniest leak, something won't get enough pressure or flow - and die.

I personally would NEVER put scarf-cut Teflon rings in this unit at all. I would only install cast iron, locking Vandyke style rings in it.

I would never put an un-inspected shaft in this unit until I ran my bore-o-scope through it and measured the shaft/hub for previous ring groove wear. ANY wear trashes the shaft as far as I am concerned unless I could get it metal sprayed and re-machined back to OE specs.

Shaft leaks and stators that need new metal are the biggest failure point for any transmission - well maybe not an Allison 'cause they run on designed-in internal leakage - but your unit is hurting for fluid with that weak pump in the first place --- so ---------

One might be of the impression that I dislike the 3L and 4L series - I do not.

I only dislike everything built by Chrysler.