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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have decided to embark on a 4l30e rebuild. my friend purchased the 96 trooper not knowing it had a bad transmission. I purchased the vehicle at a discounted cost and am now rebuilding the trans and hopefully selling the trooper in order to fund my 89 trooper. Fast forward to today, I have a rebuild kit waiting, read through multiple manuals on this transmission familiarizing myself with the internal parts. The only thing is I have never pulled a 4x4 transmission before, only 2wd. I am having trouble removing the torque converter bolts (where the hel lcan I access them?) and the transmission cooling lines. There is just no wrench swing room. Is there a secret to these things? I'm real frustrated and could probably figure it out on my own eventually but the sooner I get it out the sooner I move onto the rebuild.
 

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I've removed the torque converter bolts through the starter opening. It takes a THIN walled socket to get them out though.

As for the cooler lines, I've never had a problem with them. A little tedious with an open end wrench, but they come off.

-Tad
 

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A cheap set of angle wrenches from Harbor Freight might save you some frustration.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what ive done in the past is used the starter motor to turn the trans to get the bolts off, guess thats not an option here. a new tool actually might have to be the answer to getting off those lines. i think i already disfigured one of my craftsman wrenches. has anyone had luck with those wrenches that have an open end and the other end has a hole for a socket? my father in law suggested them and i think i'll give them a try. will give more progress tomorrow. hopefully trans will be out and rebuild underway. thanks for the quick response fellas, this helps.
 

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Is there not a front cover that encloses the lower front portion of the bell housing that the engine doesn't cover? Hard to believe the motor can cover the entire bell housing.

Look closer, I'm sure you'll find a cover or something that can be removed that will give you access to the torque converter bolts. The 2.8 V6's use the same bell housing pattern and it has an access exactly as I described above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i havent seen anything like this before. the pan actually drops down and widens about the bottom covering the whole bell housing. 3.2 appears to be a weird animal. love the 4 o2 sensors also. but to answer the question, yes there is a front cover, and i could probably manage to squeeze a wrench in between the pan and bell housing but it'd be hard and the cover hasnt come off yet. i am going to finish the pull now. do the clutch packs really have to be soaked in trans fluid overnight or is a few hours ok?
 

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blacktrooper89 said:
i havent seen anything like this before. the pan actually drops down and widens about the bottom covering the whole bell housing. 3.2 appears to be a weird animal. love the 4 o2 sensors also. but to answer the question, yes there is a front cover, and i could probably manage to squeeze a wrench in between the pan and bell housing but it'd be hard and the cover hasnt come off yet. i am going to finish the pull now. do the clutch packs really have to be soaked in trans fluid overnight or is a few hours ok?
Overnight? Fifteen minutes is probably fine, or even not at all, though there are plenty of people who will tell you that the friction disks will glaze over if not properly soaked in tranny fluid. The thing is, if you run it in neutral for 8 or 10 minutes circulating fluid like you're supposed to before putting it in gear, the friction disks get plenty soaked without your additional help.
 

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It never hurts to have a pan to dip the frictions in for a few... It doesn't take that long to saturate them though... Vasoline is a great assembly lube, it mixes in once it's running...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok tad, thanks man. i had the right socket, but all the heads of my ratchets wouldn't fit so i had to use one of my father in laws. for the cooling lines, they were on good and i forgot to mention i didnt remove my exhaust. no swing room, so I got one of the open ended wrench ends with a female rathet hole and they came right off. every bolt fought me to the nail and it took some digging (tons of clay and grease combined, couldn't make out a bolt without a wire brush) to find them to begin with. I got it out, pulled the pump assembly and overdrive drum off but no heavy disassemble yet. In fact I'm starting to think I may purchase a book on this rebuild. I will keep you guys posted. It's in large parts in the back of the trooper. Tomorrow I start to tear down and hopefully rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
to be honest I didn't put much thought into it or take a good look at my kit. I looked it over somewhat today but I purchased a rebuild kit from autozone. I'm just trying to get it roadworthy again so I can sell it so if its included in my kit I will replace bushings and anything else it comes with, but if not I won't worry about it. I have an 89 that I love and purchased the 96 from a friend to help him out. This is a little out of my comfort zone, but my take on it is there is a first for everything. I've only rebuilt dodge 727 torqueflites and ford aod transmissions. This is a whole different animal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks selador and everyone else for the support. haven't abandoned this thread or my trooper. I'm right in the middle of an a+p exam and really need a good grade so the troop is on the back burner until tuesday. I might go rebuild a section out of impatience, but nothing except tear down done for now. I have a few pics too that I haven't posted because everytime I try to post, the forums say my pic size is too big even after modifying the size.
 

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blacktrooper89 said:
thanks selador and everyone else for the support. haven't abandoned this thread or my trooper. I'm right in the middle of an a+p exam and really need a good grade so the troop is on the back burner until tuesday. I might go rebuild a section out of impatience, but nothing except tear down done for now. I have a few pics too that I haven't posted because everytime I try to post, the forums say my pic size is too big even after modifying the size.
Resize to 800 wide. That is optimum for this forum.

Also, it may be cringing about the file size, and not so much the pic size.

Try a resize to 800, and mybe that will put it in range for file size as well.

I have no idea what the upper limit is for file size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
concern is the third drum itself. a clutching spun so hard it kind of inverted and shaved a little groove into the drum. i got a new metal plate to fit in there, but should I file it smooth or is that a bad idea? anyone know? i honestly didnt anticipate this kind of damage, it was obviously abused.
 

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If its a bearing thrust face you need to buff it up a bit... See if you can take a pic of it.. If its to bad (loss of material) you might need a good used replacement drum...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
so very slow progress due to work school and family. i not have the main case on my front porch in a tupperware (I live in apartments and the trooper is in someones lot). I have been trying to figure out how to get the second drum open for a few days and was finally successful today using an old plastic milk jug. there are several access holes around the drum exposing a small portion of a retaining ring that has expanded to hold the assy in place. I depressed a section and inserted a sliver of the plastic from the milk jug to keep it depressed. i did this around the sprag race assy until I had most of the ring depressed and work the assy out pushing on the ring in various places. very low on sleep and kind of burnt out so sorry if this explanation didn't make sense, willing to help anyone else having problems with this as i progress. ravineaux (if thats how u spell it) is still in main case, having trouble getting sprocket off the tail shaft, but sure i will get it tomorrow and at least have 2nd drum rebuilt. I have school and have to sleep also so thats probably it.
 

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That's a good idea dude !! Sounds like your burning the candle at both ends !! The pistons in the back of the hubs probably could use new seals to, that's kind of a pain usually requires a press and a notched out push tube for access.. The seals on the pistons if bad won't allow adiquit pressure to be applied on the clutches and it can slip and not shift correctly.. Just something to pass on.. I know your wanting to sell it and all.. You might be able to find a shop that would do that part for you for cheep..
 

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I don't know if this would be helpful, but I remember there was this guide someone wrote about rebuilding this transmission. All I remember was that it is a Microsoft Word document that's very very detailed. It was circulating around the interwebz for a long time but I don't remember how I found it in the first place. I remember saving it somewhere a long time ago. I'll check my storage tomorrow and let you know. Maybe it'll help who knows?
 
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