Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had the pan dropped and filter replaced by a chain shop back in April and am somewhat mixed with the results. They did change the filter but didn't drop the cross member so not sure if the pan is torqued properly (no leaks so prob ok). Second they used some type of liquid sealer on the gasket. Also they could not tell me the type of fluid used and didn't give me back the filter so I could take a look at it. They did say the fluid was slightly discolored but the pan was clean and the filter was black. Figured I was under warranty so WFT. Really regret spending that $200 now

Decided I'm going to do this over the weekend but have a few questions. How much fluid should I buy? I plan to drop both pans so I think 8qts should be more than enough. I can use the extra for the steering pump. Second what is the torque spec for the pan? I think I saw it is 10 but not sure and I don't have a manual. Afraid to over tighten. What about removing the cross member and using a jack to hold up the tranny? It 2WD so no transfer case. Where do I put the jack? I don't see anyplace to locate it and am afraid to remove the support without one. Also when they replaced the filter, the kit they used has a new fill plug. It is round (can't wait to get at that with AFT all over my fingers) and uses an allen key. Anyone know if this needs a new crush washer?

Thanks for the help and sorry for so many questions. I'll try to get some pictures
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
934 Posts
robs said:
Also when they replaced the filter, the kit they used has a new fill plug. It is round (can't wait to get at that with AFT all over my fingers) and uses an allen key. Anyone know if this needs a new crush washer?
You will not need a washer. It has a big thick built in rubber one. It is a pain when putting in the fill hole. It is real hard to grip it when it is slippery with ATF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
When I dropped the pan on mine during the summer, I decided I would make it easier in the future. I drilled holes in the crossmember so that I could fit an extension up through it for loosening and tightening. It is a real pain but I figure that I am better off for future servicing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
I thought about that when I had my other one but I was afraid that by removing material from the crossmember it would weaken it, otherwise, I think the crossmember would have had those holes in the first place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok jobs done. What a mess. Sorry no pictures it was too sloppy. Spent almost the entire day fixing the shops mistakes. That new fill plug with a allen key, was completely stripped. They didn't drop the cross member so one of the back pan bolts was partially stripped. Gasket sealer over the entire pan mating surface. Also the thing was about 1.5qts underfull. My guess is they filled but didn't start truck to top off.

Dropped the main pan. 2.5qts out during the drain. another 1/2qt left in the pan and just over 4.5qts in. Fluid was actually in good shape. Pan was clean with some minor clutch material on the magnet. Used Castrol Import multi vehicle. Replaced both drain an refill with some autozone oil plugs with the built in gasket. Direct fit. Added 3 qts then started the truck and got it to temp. Added another 1qt and ran through the gears. Added another quart and let it overflow until a slow stream. Fluid was warm and cozy to the touch so I think I got the right temp.

Dropping the cross member was a pain. One of the pass side bolts is stripped so I have to leave it out. Will repair later. No leaks so far and plan to drain and refill and drop the second pan after a few thousand miles. Pumping the fluid in was also not really fun. Not as messy as I thought but still not something I enjoyed

oh and she shifts so much smoother now. Shop used some synthetic stuff. not sure what but I didn't like the was it shifted. Hope it stays this way
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,475 Posts
You did an excellent job on the refill procedure....that's EXACTLY how it's supposed to be done.

The previous shift quality was probably do to low fluid level more then anything.

All you need to do now, is change the atf EVERY 15k miles, on a drain/refill and your new filter will stay pretty clean. Change the filter every 40-50k miles if you're going to do drain/refills every 15k

These transmissions will last a super long time with this protocal, as long as they're not abused. I have 350k on one rodeo, 202k on the other.

Castrol Import is a superb oil for this transmission, it LOVES it!

Now.....can you come do mine....I need to change the filter again on my 97, but the fluid that comes out looks brand-new, so not sure if the filter really needs changed. I don't have a garage anymore, so I don't care to drop my main pan in the driveway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks ramblin, I appreciate it. I'll probably check the level in a few days to see how close I am. I was very nervous after the first step (making sure I could remove the fill plug) was a total disaster and was doubting myself the entire time. I saved the drained fluid to let it settle and did notice a few copper flakes floating around. Definitely a sign of permanent damage. I wonder if there is someplace i could send a sample to like they do with motor oil to find out what's happening in there? Anyway I think the writings on the wall on this tranny so I'll just keep with your recommended fluid changes and hope for the best.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,475 Posts
Blackstone laboratories....you can order a free testing kit, to put ATF fluid in and send back to them for testing.

I don't think you need to recheck the level, from your refill procedure, your level should be perfect. Sometimes checking fluid too much can actually cause you to get low atf level readings too.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top