Isuzu SUV Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so, its starting to snow where I am, so i decided to test out my 4H and 4L. I decided to test it on a little hill made for ATV's at one of the local surveying companies around the corner from my place. I got her engaged in 4wd (light was on and everything) I backed up 10 feet (i know it doesnt matter, but i like to do it) drove forward onto the hill (about a 20 foot drive, plenty of time for the hubs to engage) stopped, and then tried to continue, and it wouldnt go. So I figure maybe I'm on some ice. I back up, look at the hill, and theres burnout marks where my back tires were, not the front though.

Its a 1991 Rodeo LS, with the 4L30E and auto locking hubs (changing that VERY soon) Are maybe the hubs just not engaging because they're old and barely used, or is it "pull apart the front axle" time?

Any help would be great, thanks guys :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,705 Posts
Hard to say without additional examination. Hopefully, it's just the retainer clip came off / broke. Pull the covers off and see if the clip is still in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
shooter said:
Hard to say without additional examination. Hopefully, it's just the retainer clip came off / broke. Pull the covers off and see if the clip is still in place.
how do i do that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Called the guy I bought it from, and he reminded me that there was an issue with the automatic hubs. Thank god I ordered those manual hubs. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SO! it wasnt the manual hubs that were the problem! no....the passenger side axle is siezed in the friggin diff. so...they gotta either tear apart my whole front end (by that point, may as well find a pass side drop d44, or a toy axle) or find an OEM isuzu axle, and rebuild it.

either way it sounds fun, and friggin expensive.

anybody got an axle kicking around?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,577 Posts
I can't imagine what caused that other than the diff being dry. I'm going to bet that they are trying to pull the half-shaft out of the diff and can't, thus the diagnosis of it being stuck. There is a c-clip however on the inside of the front diff mounting bracket.

Why are they trying to pull the axle?

-Tad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Tad said:
I can't imagine what caused that other than the diff being dry. I'm going to bet that they are trying to pull the half-shaft out of the diff and can't, thus the diagnosis of it being stuck. There is a c-clip however on the inside of the front diff mounting bracket.

Why are they trying to pull the axle?

-Tad
because its broken at the cv boot. my boot is literally holding my axle together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,897 Posts
Agreeing here with Thad. Highly doubt the axle is "seized" in the diff, seized indicates it won't turn. I'm still guessing it's down to the hubs. Possibly the splines are chewed off the end of the half shaft and they are trying to change the half shaft, if that's the case they do not need to drop the axle (which apparently they are trying to do).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,897 Posts
Broken at the inner or outer boot? I've yet to see one break at the inner boot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,577 Posts
Either way it sounds like they don't know how to replace it.

BTW if the auto hubs mangled the splines you can swap to manual hubs. The manuals use a different part of the splined area. I realize that won't solve a bad CV joint but someone may read this in the future.

-Tad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'll ask them about the c-clip on monday when they open. They'll have to drop the diff for that though, wont they?

Pretty sure they said outer boot

I just replaced the auto hubs with some aisin manuals 2 weeks ago. Thats when they found the issue with the axle.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,577 Posts
And to comment, if it is just the boot, and the joint is ok, reboot it. They sell replacements. If the joint it shot, yes they will want to drop the diff in order to get the shaft out. That C-Clip that holds the shaft in is behind the front axle mounting plate.

If they "Cheat" they can get the same brand axle as you have now (there are only two OEM suppliers). Then they can disassemble the inner joint and use the cup from the old axle and the rest from the new one. That way they don't have to drop the axle.

-Tad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tad said:
If they "Cheat" they can get the same brand axle as you have now (there are only two OEM suppliers). Then they can disassemble the inner joint and use the cup from the old axle and the rest from the new one. That way they don't have to drop the axle.

-Tad
thats what they're going to do! now that you've gone into detail with it, thats exactly what they suggested to me
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,897 Posts
I (and many others) "cheat", no need to drop the diff. As for oem, the price would scare you! Replacements can be purchased at any parts house, rock auto, napa, etc. Me? I'd buy one (around $100.00 or less) from a parts house and put it in and be done with it. You'll notice you can buy the shaft complete or buy it minus the inner cup. I'd buy one minus the inner cup, negating the need to drop the entire axle. Apparently they don't know what they are doing based on some of the comments though I could be wrong. Tell them to open up the inner boot, pull out the wire looking retaining ring and remove the shaft, leaving that inner cup still in the diff. You then grease up the new shaft's inner joint (grease is supplied), stab it in to the inner cup, clip on the new boot and reassemble. Relatively simple and inexpensive fix. I know there's tons of information and even a step by step on here showing how to replace the cv shaft but this link at least shows the wire retaining ring they need to remove the shaft from the inner cup, leaving the diff in place.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=56991&hilit=+size+ring
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok, its either, find an OEM, or SAS the front....thats what im down to. now I've found an 82ish, toyota pickup with a solid front, no clue if its for 410s or not, i just saw it from the side of the road and called the company lot manager.

anybody know of an OEM axle replacement dealer?

**edit**

would the one on the bottom of this page work?

http://www.performancemarket.com/catalo ... ke_code=IS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,897 Posts
Looks correct but maybe I'm just too tired to understand their wording. Shows it without the inner housing (which is the way I'd buy it) yet says it comes with the housing OR could be ordered with out. I just can't make enough sense out of their description to be certain you'd get what you want! Descriptions for both say comes with inner housing, picture shows one with and one without, and the one without costs more? I'm obviously missing something. If it's unclear, I'd call before placing my order but again maybe it's just me, long day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, so i found, and ordered a passenger axle w/o the inner cv joint whatever its called. Brought it to the shop, and they tried to throw her on, and the bearings are to large, and its just not fitting. Does anybody have an axle that is from a 91-92 Rodeo LS V6. I don't want a 'this will work' i want a 'i pulled this from the truck' I really don't wanna drop the front end to fix this ****, and its starting to piss me off too no extent. thanks guys.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top