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4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a detailed writeup on installing a body lift in a 2nd gen Amigo/Rodeo sport.

This truck was a V-6 5spd 4wd,an automatic is a little different,in that the auto tranny shifter needs no modifying(it's cable) and the cooler lines for A/T under fan need to be extended and depending on locale and situation,lowering radiator may be needed for cooling.

These are similar but very different from doing a 2nd gen rodeo,more crap to take off and replace.

Best news------> NO CAPTURE NUTS!!!!

This is how I did it,bumper mods etc may not be acceptable for some folks so use your own ideas,mine are just to get you headed in the right direction.

My Bodylift Kit:

8 pcs grade 8 bolts 3/8-16 x 7" long(all they had was grade 8 in that length).
8 pcs hardened washers(grade 8).
8 pcs regular washers(bigger outside diameter than grade 8 ones,they didn't have large harden'd ones).
8 pcs 3/8-16 nuts.
4 pcs 2" diameter 3" tall poly blocks.
4 pcs 3" diameter 3" tall poly blocks.
2 pcs 1/2" diameter x 3" long steel for shifters (auto's only need one,since shifter is cable).
1 pcs 1/2" inside diameter 1/8" wall steel tube 5" long for body retention thing lengthening.
1 pcs for steering shaft extension.
1 pcs tubing for sleeving steering shaft extension.

Before with just 5" suspension lift

Start by taking battery ground loose.

Then unbolt the AC main line from firewall (1 bolt w/strap green in the pic above the small hard lines) and pull out the bottom hardline from the plastic clips on the firewall,pull the vaccumn hoses (protected with sleeve) from behind the brake booster.

Unplug the ABS sensors from upper control arm area(we are not using the ABS so they will not be reconnected)If you are using the ABS then after lift you need to extend them by cutting back some of the wire wrapping and pull them to make them longer.Both sides.

On passenger front side --->Unplug the black clip from the frame mounted mount(after lift bend the tab up about 45* and "screw" the plastic clip down on the wire loom so you can reconnect the wire harness to the metal mount)

Also on passenger front side---> pull the plastic clip from frame that holds wireing harness that runs under radiator

Remove the lower fan shroud part,it just pops out and allows the fan to clear while maintaing the shrouds integrity

Remove the power steering line from the 2 plastic clips on the inner fenderwell

Loosen the screw clamp that holds MAF sensor to air intake hose,unplug MAF sensor and remove air filter cover, set aside and just let intake hose sit loose(I removed sensor and used a rag to cover hole,no pic sorry)

Lock steering column with tires straight ahead(this prevents the airbag cable from being broken)Remove two bolts from steering shaft,pry out upper pc and then pull lower off splines
Set aside for modifing,You need to cut shaft and weld in a 1" extension and then sleeve it and weld the sleeve.

this shows a stock(black) and 1" extended shaft(pink)

On to the bumpers,it'll look like your doing something now

Unplug foglights if you have them

Remove 2 bolts from each side of the front bumper frame mounts

Pull bumper out and away from truck,set to the side

Move to the back

remove screws/pushpins to release passengerside inner plastic panel and mudflap set to the side

remove screws and pushpins on driverside and move out of the way (behind tire) you can fight with all the pushpins if you want.

Remove two nuts each side that hold the bumper ends to the body set these to the side

remove 2 bolts each side that mount rear bumper.

unplug license plate light.

remove rear bumper by pulling backwards and set to the side.

Now crawl under the back and look up to the floor in front of the gas vapor big plastic lunchbox looking thing,behind the rear axle,see the T body retention bracket,unbolt it from the body(2 bolts) and set it aside to modify.

While under truck look to inside frame rail driversside and remove bolt that holds gas filler tube

**********stripping rear of truck for bolt access**********************************

Now the fun part,this is written for a soft top,hardtop is similar tho'.

We need to remove the rollbar/seatbelt bar next to access the rear body bolts.

Remove back window and side windows,pop the latch like you are going to lower the top.

Pull top back(to loosen tension on top) and pull down on the back corners of the top above the tail lights,the top's corners are pushed up under the plastic trim just like the sidewindows.

Push top back up like your closing it(do not latch).

Remove two bolts per side.

remove top it's awkward but not bad set, to the side.

Now remove the screws and bolts on each side that hold the plastic top rails on,remove these pcs and set somewhere
so you don't step on them.

Start removing interior plastic pcs,the covers that latch on,remove jack and tire tools.

First the screws for rear plastic trim at tailgate

Don't forget this screw on the top each side

The square plastic seatbelt trim,just kinda unfolds (the top two pcs unsnap) and comes off.

The long L shaped pcs pops out of retention clips

Other pcs snap out also

Sorry for lack of pictures of trim removal

Pile of trim pcs removed -you can see kinda how they mount

Then pull side panels

Held in with clips and tabs, start at tailgate end and pop it loose,the far end by rear seat has tabs that go into forward trim.

Now police up all the stupid little retainer clips and put them back on the parts that are missing them.
You will find more when you remove rollbar/seatbelt bar if your still missing some.

In the middle of stripping back

Remove bolts that hold seatbelt assy. to bar (2 bolts per side),remove seatbelt "spool" and set on floor(it has a tab that fits into a slot,so remove bolt and pull up slightly).

Remove bolts that hold bar in, 2 in each of the back corners

one on the floor each side.

Two on the side where you removed seatbelt "spool"

Now remove bar by going straight up set to the side.The rear pile is getting large

It's finally time to do the lift.

************bolt locations***************************************************

Front bolts

driver/pass feet bolts,

Remove plastic kick panel on door sill (it just pulls up-plastic clips) and pull the front kick panel back and into inside of floor are to pop out 1 clip,there is one pushpin that holds panel to front off foot area it may or may not come loose.All you need is to be able to pull carpet back a few inches.Pull out rubber plug.

driver/passenger rear bolts,

Pull carpet out from under plastic rear trim and pull rubber plug out

Rear bolts,

These are accessed from these two rectangular holes in rear of truck(this is why we removed rollbar/seat belt bar)

after lifting body up I had to remove these four bolts to finagle the bolts out.

*************lifting body******************************

Loosen all 4 bolts on driverside about 3/8" (LEAVE THESE IN!!! for now)*********

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Never take all bolts out at the same time if your lifting one side at a time,you do not want body to slip off!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Remove all nuts on the passengerside and remove two middle bolts

Front and rear bolts will need to be removed once body is raised(atleast on ours--no big deal)

To lift bodyup I just got a 2x4 and cut it 24" long and two pcs about 8" long and nailed them together you can add other 2x4 pcs nailed to bottom if your jack isn't high enough.

wood fits between body mounts and uses rocker panel seam to support lift.!!!Use caution and make sure wood stays square to inner rocker panel,do not let wood slip in or out or you may bend the seam out or in.

Lift body up slowly never stick your hand between body and frame w/o a pc of wood or something there to protect your hand from getting crushed if jack fails.

Drop middle bolts in from the top,I used a hardend washer under head of bolt and a larger washer under the hardened one,Ideally a large hardened washer would be best.
Spin nuts on loosly using stock large washers.

Use a 2" puck on front foot area and 3" puck on back foot area

In front take apart body rubber mount(two pcs)they pull apart and wrestle bolt out.

Use a 2" puck on very front at radiator support,place bolt up from the bottom using stock washer and use large washer and hardend washer and nut

Now the back,I had two take these 4 bolts out to be able to get bolt out,(under bolt head inside body cavity is a large washer,you need to reuse this with new bolts)

You may have to hit top part of the rectangular opening with a hammer to dent it in enough to put longer bolt in,don't worry it'll be hidden and it's not a big dent)

Finger tighten all nuts they need to be alittle loose.

Half way done

Lower jack and repeat for driversside

Tighten all bolts down after you spend some time with a tape measure and make sure the body is even and square.

************modifying and welding******************

Now it's time to modify and weld everything that needs to be done

I'll start with the bumpers,I just welded these back on,so yes they can not be removed w/o cutting them off,feel free to come up with mounting plates if you like.

***************rear bumper****************************

If you look at the way the bumpers mount,you can slide the rear bumper back onto it's mounts on the sides of body and the rails will sit ontop of the frame and between forward angled tabs on frame(you see what I mean when you do it)

guide bumper onto these

Push it forward and side to side to line up body lines,ours happened to be a middle line on the fender flares.

Then weld what you have access to.

Reattach license plate light.

body to bumperend mounts

and reinstall inner fender liners.

******************front bumper*****************
Front bumper mounts kinda the same way as rear

First grind frame ends for welding

Use two hammers,one on each side (Swing 1 and the other is a backing) and turn this

into this,then grind off paint

now mount this

into this

Now don't force anything,the bumper is really crooked now
because this is in the way

Use something to mark the plastic bumper

and cut it out of the way,I used a jigsaw.

Line everything back up and clamp and weld


Don't have pics of steering ext. but will try to do some,folks may have to remind me,haha

but here is one that shows stock next to extended

Install the modified shaft onto the splines and slide/push top into upper mount.
Install lower bolt into clamp--ensure that the bolt is lined up in the retention groove
on shaft.Same goes for the top.
If shaft doesn't line up don't turn anything just remove the top part from mount,pull back off splines and reattach to splines keep trying til you find the right combo,this will ensure your steering wheel is straight.


Bend A.C. bracket 90* and reattach to firewall

I just used a few zipties to keep line from banging around and moving

Same with power steering resivor hose,zipped tie'd to make sure it doesn't chamfer on anything.

Don't forget this

Reconnect/attach MAF sensor and plug back in.

Reattach battery if disconnected

!!!!!!Check for anything that appears to tight,make sure fan spins w/o hitting shroud,remember not all vehicles are Identicle!!!!!!!!!!!

**********Tranny and t-case levers********************

First thing that comes to mind is I can drive this w/o extending shifters,wrong don't even try it,If you start it the rubber boots will try to pull it into gear and it doesn't sound pretty,and you can not get it into gear or will it stay in gear,so..........

I have decided to include console removing pics in here for folks that need them.

First remove these

pull e-brake handle up
then pull up on console from the rear and the front will pop loose,disconnect anything attatched,such as winter/power switches for automatics set in floor/pass seat

Ok now remove radio face plate,take ashtray out and you will find a screw remove it
Then grap both side and pull,remove wire plugs from ashtray and lighter

Then take these two screws out

then these

then these

now remove shift knobs,the console(disconnect power point wires) and set aside

You'll see this

Remove 3 screws and two nuts--->notice how there are actually two boots an inner and outer,notice how the inner is inside the outer ring where it contacts the shifter,very important that they get reassembled like this.
Pull the cover plate off,watch out for the side plate sticking where it goes down pass side

Hey it's the ground

Three bolts hold tranny shifter in

Two bolts hold in the t-case shifter

I carefully remove plastic pcs from shifters and tape up machined surfaces prior to welding

Cut shifters at straight area down low,and put in a 3" extension,chamfer(grind) all parts and weld them together,I have given up on tack,tack check,then brake apart tacktack again...and again
So I just weld them solid 1st time,then install them and.............
Take a sharpie and mark on the extension or where ever it needs to be bent and then I use a cut off wheel and grind 1/2 way thru shifter a few hits with the hammer closes up the cut I made,stick it back in and try it and then weld it up.

An example would be say it needs to go away from the dash and towards me.
Make a mark on the sides where it needs to go (so when you cut here and bend it to close up the gap,shifter moves where you want it)Notice weld that doesn't go all the way around that's what I'm talking about.

Repeat with both shifters til' your happy.

Check in Hi-range and lo-range 5th gear hi-range and reverse in lo-range,make sure you hand doesn't hit dash etc.

Now put interior back together

*************body retention extension****************

Remember this pc

cut,chamfer and weld not a big deal

************final notes*************

We are finished truck now sit's 3" higher

We now have exposed frame rails to mount rockerprotection/steps to.

Hope this helps people out,now it's time to relax
and enjoy an adult beverage.

If I've forgotten anything let me know

Til' next mod............c-ya!

3,926 Posts
Nice write up.

7,210 Posts
Excellent write up. I was going to take my time and stop and take pics so I could do a similar write up when I did mine.....

I can't do it.

I can't make myself stop working to take pics. I'm just not patient enough.


4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks figured it would be good to have one for these since their so different and could easiely piss someone off when they started it :lol:

4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nothing to deal with,it is a cable shifter and there's plenty of slack,no mod needed.
Make sure to check the two rubber at cooling lines under the fan they will need to be lengthend.
And depending on if it wants to run hot,you may need to add an electric fan or lower radiator,just depends on how and were you drive,

2,854 Posts
Mine is an auto, and so far so good with the B/L. I've been driving all over the place, even left the state a few times. The radiator is in the stock location, and nothing is binding up or overheating. Like Bansil said, depends on where and how you drive, my rodeo is a street queen. :D

99 Posts
Thanks very much for the effort. I own a RS so it could be I'll be doing this someday.

160 Posts
just put a 3" body lift on my 98 amigo and your write up was very helpful. i havnt finished modifing the bumpers or the shifters yet. but thanks for all the useful info. the info on dissasembling the back of the truck was the biggest help.

thanks again

1,692 Posts
Thanks for detailed pics. Will make lift go alot easier. ON a 2004 rodeo would i need 6 -2" pucks and 4-3"pucks? Total of 10. Thanks,BANSIL. Tony

4,823 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
totten said:
Thanks for detailed pics. Will make lift go alot easier. ON a 2004 rodeo would i need 6 -2" pucks and 4-3"pucks? Total of 10. Thanks,BANSIL. Tony
Don't remember which ones I used,you can measure yours or when her truck gets back in a week I can count them,it will be the same number I used.

2,502 Posts
:D i love body lifts,it makes a lot of thing more easily accessable 8) recon

721 Posts
I did this over the weekend to my '99 Amigo. A couple of points: I couldn't get the new, longer bolts to wiggle down through the cavities in the front and rear mounts and ended up running the new bolts up from the bottom with the nuts on the top. I found that 7/16 bolts fit the existing holes, washers and spacers perfectly, giving a little more strength than 3/8. Tractor Supply carries 7/16 x 6" grade 5 and grade 8 bolts. I did a 2" lift, and the 6" bolts were perfect. I would also recommend 3" wide spacers all around for an Amigo. I can see no reason that they wouldn't fit-- at least on a 2" lift. The steering required no mods for me. I loosened up the steering shaft linkage and had enough slack to make it work. The body retainer T-bar still works with a 2" lift with no modifications. All in all, a very worthwhile project. Thanks for a great tutorial.
Now-- to all of you thinking about doing a body lift:
I've upped my truck
Up Yours!
:la: :la: :la:

1,692 Posts
I like the idea of 2" bl with no mods to steering,t-bar bracket, and 7/16 bolts from tractor supply. Also 3" WIDE PUCKS. Thank you,Tony :idea:
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