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1990 trooper 2, 76 Datsun 620
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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
What about using one solid mount for the driver side, isolated with a pad in between the frame and mounting plate, then using the aftermarket mount on the passenger side?
There’s so many mixed opinions on solid vs rubberized it’s ridiculous.
How many people do we actually KNOW that have had failed custom fab’d mounts?
This seems to be all hear-say and reading through forums is exhausting with all the opinions.
Don’t get me wrong, I appreciate all the input here, as this is a very important decision for me.
Ed I like that idea.... I might try something like that. I’m just not sure how I go from here(see below)

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I’m sure I could use some poly pads in between the frame and mount, and sort of sandwich the solid mount with isolating pads.
That doesn’t work because the minute the pad compresses, your bolts are loose.
 

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Any reason not to use a stock mount? Rockauto does have a couple different brands of the driver's side mount in stock, this one is $18.03 plus shipping and has a better warranty (1 year) than the cheaper mount:


Another thought, just dispense with the stock metal block bracket, this would give you more room for an aftermarket mount. You may find some existing bolt holes can be used, and you could also drill the universal mount for any hole that locates on the plate. And you can weld extension plate(s) to the mount as well.

Or make a custom plate that bolts to the block, then weld the mount to that plate. Probably be stronger that way.

I'd imagine 1/4" steel plate should be stout enough for that purpose. Or at least as thick as the plate on the mount itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
Ed, I like the idea of those LS swap style mounts with the bushing cradled in some type of round stock. That looks like an excellent way to do it. For about $30 after shipping I’d really just like to use a replacement mount, just not have to wait until December! It’s ridiculous
 

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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
My rock auto order shipped! Anchor brand mount for the driver side. Finally. Jerry had told me that the anchor brand is good.
Ed, I was reading some other builds, there was an S-10 that made 187 HP at the wheels on iron heads...I bet that little truck gets it!

To get back to curiosities about what the gen 3 60 degree can do, here’s some info I’ve always found from the wiki.
The 3400 made 170-185 HP and 200-210 ft lb
The 3500 made 200 HP and 220 ft lb, but had a range of 196-215 HP, and 201-220 ft lb.
The equinox was a 3400 with 185/210 and a Malibu maxx or Pontiac g6, even the Chevy uplander (all 3500) were all rated at 200/220. So 3.4 block, 3500 heads and LIM, equinox upper, 65mm throttle body.... about 190 average? Maybe 215 on torque? I’m trying to NOT test the capacity of the MUA5 though, so all stock components, not even polished or ported, a little better cam than the stock 3.4, we’ll see what delta cams comes up with, and of course I’ll have to build some custom exhaust.
 

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Good news on the motor mount!

The guy with the 187 rwhp S10 was at the now-defunct S-series.org site. He had a Comp Cams kit, 1.6:1 Magnum roller-tipped rockers, headers, performance exhaust, big TBI and bored intake. Well over 200 hp at the crankshaft.

I expect mine should be pushing 180 hp or so. It has the stock Camaro cam and no headers, but does have all the other performance goodies.

Not a huge surprise, the GM Goodwrech 3.4 crate motor made 160 hp & 195 torque with a "wheezy" S10 2-bbl intake and stock carb.

Your hybrid with the far-superior aluminum heads should do even better. I wouldn't worry about the trans, either, Jerry said it'll handle around 240 ft-lb torque, and later models of the 3.5 had at least 215 hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
You know sometimes rock auto is just the worst..... they shipped me the wrong motor mount and now I have to pay to ship it back. Someone had opened up the packaging and put this in there. The box and the bag both have a picture of what the part should be.
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They should have paid for return shipping if they sent the wrong part. I'd be speaking to someone right quick!! Stoopid!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
They should have paid for return shipping if they sent the wrong part. I'd be speaking to someone right quick!! Stoopid!!!
That’s the thing, you can’t just call and speak to someone. It’s been all “digital” for years now. I’ve only had to return a product just a few times, other then that the parts are spot on typically.
 

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Like trying to talk to someone at Amazon I reckon! Here's the start page for processing a return:

 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
It’s the worst...... thanks Ed!
I will return this stupid thing, and just go with the pioneer brand that’s in stock. I bet they are all the same really. I’ve been building a couple mounts just not sure on how I’m going to isolate the motor from the mount so I haven’t done much with them.
I prefer to just use a replacement part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
The unfortunate snag is I need a set of intake manifold bolts, I’m still waiting on the cam and lifters, I need a water pump, and my intake manifold gasket set wasn’t complete.
The timing cover needs a little more clearance as well. Too bad I painted it already!

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Looks good. That throttle body opening is HUGE! The upper plenum is quite tall, is it gonna clear the hood, or is it hood scoop time??
 

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That one might be too long even to install a 90 elbow or something like that. Could it be shortened? It would change your engine tuning, but there may not be a good alternative.

Well, maybe with the other one you could install a Mach 1 scoop, "Shaker Hood" style!! 😸

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