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1990 trooper 2, 76 Datsun 620
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im on my way to my motor swap, but im going a little farther........
If your a grand am person, or a third gen camaro, fire bird, trans am owner, or any other vehicle that has a 3.4 RWD block and the 3400 FWD blocks, you may have heard of the 3x00 top swap. The third and fourth gen camaro guys are taking their iron heads off and swapping over the aluminum heads and intakes from the front wheel drive cars like the malibu, impala, uplander, g6, etc.
My block is a 93 firebird 3.4. These cars came with DIS, no distributer. The lower intake manifold covers the distributer hole, so im going to modify the wiring from dizzy to DIS. Each system is triggered about the same way, I just need to study the wiring schematic or find the thread on thirdgen.org and see how that guy did it.
This also means im going MPFI.
I'll use 3400 pistons from the impala, 3400 head gaskets from the impala for about 9:1 with my 3500 heads from an uplander.
Im currently tearing down the 2.8 right now, im getting snagged on the passenger side exhuast manifold. i cant quite reach one of the bolts at the downpipe connection, or "y" if you will. theres also 2 snapped bolts in the head. I need 2 more jack stands to get it up a bit higher so i can be under it with a bit more room to work.
Ive got more stuff to get as far as parts, and the machine shop has just started their work on the block.

Its obviously going to be a massive overhaul, im talking a lift kit since i need upper and lower control arm bushings, new ball joints, sway bar bushings, maybe body mount bushings......bushings bushings bushings. new leaf springs too. new power steering pump, A/C retro'd to R134a, new condenser, alternator rebuild (or upgrade?), it is the gm cs130 right? anyway, new fuel pump, either an impala unit or some external mounted pump. what else am i doing here.... refirb the injectors....
Were talking 340,000 plus miles on this mofo...... its an overhaul.
 

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1990 trooper 2, 76 Datsun 620
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well i got the drivers side exhuast manifold off and disconnected from the down pipe portion. the passenger side is a bit more cluttered, i may have to disconnect that front drive shaft from the transfer case. its just a super greasy mess down there so im letting it soak in some purple power, when i get more brake part cleaner I'll spray it again.

I cant tell where the starter positive is held on.... it crosses from passenger to driver side. trifles.
My next move is to remove valve covers and intake to see if I can get to the bell housing bolts a bit easier. It's really too bad its winter already, I cant be rolling this thing to the driveway to hose everything down. That should have been a summer thing.
 

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Yeah, pull the front driveshaft, it makes for much better access. For more clearance at the top, unbolt the metal motor mount brackets from the lower frame mounts; then lift the engine up on a hoist, and remove the metal brackets from the block. Then you'll be able to drop the engine down farther and gain access to the top bolts at the back. For some of the bell housing bolts I still had to stack some long extensions together and have at it from underneath. You can put an impact on it if necessary. Once I had those busted loose, was able to use an air ratchet and that made things a lot less strenuous. Gear Wrenches help get in the tight spots, if you have a set.

You can also drop the front differential assembly with its mounting bracket to the frame. This gives a lot more clearance for the oil pan, coming out. There are (2) quite large bolts per side, sticking straight up into the frame.

You may have to cut out your exhaust if you can't get it undone. You're probably gonna have to redo it all anyway, with that hot-rod engine you're building!

Should run really nice with the 3500 heads. MPFI should give you a very responsive engine and I'd think that it should give better mpg than a TBI'd 3.4.

And yeah, it's a lot of work, but there will be no car payments on a new $60,000 SUV. And you'll have something quite unique!

Fall/Winter did come at us fast, I ended up working on my Trooper far too far into the Season. But I did get my oil change done and a new headlight installed. So I no longer have an aquarium in my grille!

BTW no one should complain about posting helpful links. I've been doing that for years with no gripes from anyone. Any good info is welcome, we're not too stuck-up here!! 😼

Keep up the good documentation, this will be an excellent build thread!...............ed

p.s. starter is on the Driver's side all the way aft and there are 2 mounting bolts sticking straight up. Solenoid connections are at the forward end of the starter. You can disconnect the entire wiring harness off the engine, and peel it back to the pssgr's side.
 

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1990 trooper 2, 76 Datsun 620
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I see the loom for the starter wiring now, it’s just kind of stuck in there.
I am wondering if I try to replace the motor mounts or not. Right now it’s soaking in some degreaser and pb blaster, I’m going to have a drink and get after it in a bit.
I can see the big bolts to drop the front diff, I see a bolt I missed to remove the exhaust manifold on the passenger side.....
All that exhaust from the cat back is pretty new, so I’m thinking I’ll have to fab up everything forward of that.
I’ll start throwing pics around when I get the new motor painted and put together
 

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What diameter is your cat and everything to the rear of that? I have a dual-inlet cat that takes the 2" downpipes from both exhaust manifolds, and goes into one single 2-1/2" outlet, with the rest of the system 2-1/2" diameter. That should be big enough for the hybrid, any larger and it may kill your low-end.
 

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1990 trooper 2, 76 Datsun 620
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now looking at the cat you have Ed, I think I may have to get something like that... you posted a link in another thread. Here in Idaho they don’t really check for the catalytic converters..... but I’m planet friendly wink
 

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Now looking at the cat you have Ed, I think I may have to get something like that... you posted a link in another thread. Here in Idaho they don’t really check for the catalytic converters..... but I’m planet friendly wink
Yeah, you could make the single-inlet cat work by using an aftermarket "wye". Or you can go to the dual-inlet cat which also has the added benefit of having an O2 sensor bung at each end. The O2 sensor will run a lot hotter sitting in the cat, which is a Good Thing. Lights-off the sensor faster, and keeping it hotter gives a more accurate signal to the ECM.

The Walker 15022 cat went way up in price, but this generic cat is only $52 shipped on eBay and comes with a 5-yr 50,000 warranty:

Universal Catalytic Converter Oval 2.5" Inlet 2" Outlet EPA Approved Weld-On | eBay

And here's a Magnaflow wye pipe that might work ok with your existing cat:


The cat's cheaper than the wye, and less trouble since you won't have to weld-in a sensor bung, which you'd have to do for the wye.
 

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You'll want to make sure you leave enough head room to get the O2 sensors in and out. I assume you'd have that much head room anyway since the cat is getting scorching hot.

FYI, the collector is a perfect fit for welding on a 2.5" pipe, so you can just use a 2.5" pipe up to a standard CAT without a Y-pipe at all. That's what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok I’m trying to make progress.....

this bolt here is holding some kind of ground to the head, I can’t get to it, I thought I could remove this pesky heater hose but it’s also wedged between the firewall and head. Poop.
 

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1990 Isuzu Trooper V6
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I just picked up a 3.4 out of a 94 Camaro in Logan, Utah and brought it back to Salt Lake. It's sitting in my garage on a stand, I'm considering the 3x00 swap while I have it out and everything. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to hearing about how your project goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just picked up a 3.4 out of a 94 Camaro in Logan, Utah and brought it back to Salt Lake. It's sitting in my garage on a stand, I'm considering the 3x00 swap while I have it out and everything. Thanks for sharing, looking forward to hearing about how your project goes.
Yeah the aluminum heads are great. I’m excited to see this through, I was worried about the dizzy to DIS wiring but it’s no big deal, and now that I know the equinox has its own unique manifold, I’m not concerned with the throttle body hitting the radiator
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What kind of power are people getting out of this motor?
I believe the stock 3400 makes like 180 I can’t remember. I’m sure the stock 3500 make 200 minimum. I think the 3.4 made 160? I have heard the 3.4 with 3400 heads can do about 190 or so on a mild build, on some 3.4’s with 3500 were expecting 250-300, depending on how wild the build. It’s one hell of a v6. Gm is doing amazing things with the 60 degree these days. There’s a version of the equinox that has a 3.6L, and it makes 285hp NA, but it’s VVT. The rest of the VVT is impressive as well, such as the 3500 VVT, and the 3.9L (impala?)....

Honestly for me, my block just needed a hone, my heads will not be ported or polished, I’m going to use the comp cams 26986 springs( I think that’s the part#), a torque cam from wot-tech.com, and I will probably polish the intake manifolds a bit along with port matching those to each other since I will use 3500 heads with the 3500 lower intake, and I might have to use the 3400 equinox upper intake like the picture I posted. I do have the 3500 upper but it could point the throttle body at the radiator.
I also have the 65mm throttle body from an 02 olds aurora.
In short I plan on having 190-200 at least and that’s all I want which is plenty more than the trooper needs.
This won’t be an easy swap, plan on having some kind of header or ex manifold built. The exhaust ports are D shaped, they are a little bigger too. Your stock manifolds will not work.

How familiar are you with the head swap? Read up on the other forums if you need more info or I’ll send you some links to threads I’ve been following that are more than a decade old!
 

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That should be a strong runner!

GM rated the Goodwrench crate motor at 160hp and around 195 torque IIRC. That was using a "wheezy" old S-10 intake with 2-bbl carb. Not exactly the best for performance. The cam they used in was the equivalent of a Comp Cams "252" torque cam and it did have better low-end torque than a Camaro or Firebird 3.4 with whatever grind they used in the F-bodies. I think that engine ran out of steam somewhere around 4500 rpm.

There was an S10 dude on the old S-Series.org site who had a 3.4 in his S10. As I recall it had the Holley Big-Bore TBI and a bored intake, 1.6:1 Comp Cams Magnum roller-tipped rocker arms, headers, and free-flowing exhaust. I can't recall if he cammed it, maybe Geoff does. At any rate, he dyno'd it and got 187 rwhp. If you figure 10% losses, that's almost 208hp at the crankshaft. Pretty healthy! Mine has similar mods but no headers. It runs quite well, regardless, and will still spin willingly past 5000 if I push it.

So it'll be interesting to see how your build turns out. Keep On Wrenching!..........ed
 
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