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3.2 V6 crankshaft timing sprocket removal suggestions?

390 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Eric B, 
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I’m hoping someone has experience or a suggestion on how to remove the timing belt sprocket/pulley from the engine block so I can inspect the oil pump assembly and replace the shaft seal?
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I guess I hit the go/post button before posting this picture of the sprocket on the crankshaft I’m trying to remove
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S
Clean any debris and burrs off the the crankshaft & key. Heat with a torch then carefully and most importantly evenly pry off with 2 heal bars. Do not pry against the seal retainer plate when doing so.... The plate will crack.
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Thanks for the advice! I did one round with a MAP-Pro torch and got the sprocket up to around 300-350 F (verified using an IR temp sensor) and it wouldn't budge. How hot do you think I can heat the sprocket up before I warp or damage something else?
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1GTrooperWannaB said:
Thanks for the advice! I did one round with a MAP-Pro torch and got the sprocket up to around 300-350 F (verified using an IR temp sensor) and it wouldn't budge. How hot do you think I can heat the sprocket up before I warp or damage something else?
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I wouldn't heat above what you have already...
If it's oxyadation that stopping it from moving you will need to shock it off... Chemical burn it off or heat cycle it off. At this point I would try to heat and cool a few times and hit the key with a puch. And tap moderately hard all around .. Normally if you can get the key to move (slightly) the pully will soon fallow. This is the heat and shock method.

If there is debri, burrs and/or chaffing you must knock that down first.
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Buster28
I have had some success getting things unstuck using a mixture of 50% ATF and 50% Acetone.
Be careful with the sprocket, it is a discontinued item.
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N
ATF soak and heat. Try tapping on it, the key may be binding it on the crank.
Can you wedge two thin screwdrivers on each side to force it off.
And maybe grab with big pliers and work it back and forth, may loosen it from crank.

And hit it lightly back down the crank. What you want is have it ATF oiled, warmed up and get it to move a little more of the ATF can get in there. Once it moves a little it will move more.

Tried PB Blaster or Kroil?

Another idea, screw on a hose clamp and pry on that, not the gear.
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It’s off now but it wasn’t pretty. I tried heat cycling it with a MAP torch and then carefully prying under the flange ends with pry bars. Nothing doing! Also tried the ATF/acetone penetrant (and pb blaster before that.

I ended up drilling and tapping three 1/4-20 threads into the inside of the hub and created a homemade wheel puller using a 7/16 in carriage bolt and a 1/4 inch thick piece of steel plate I had on hand.
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it’s still took a bunch of torque to get it off. I’m not sure it would have come off for me any other way. I do have some minor collateral damage where i partially broke through the hub with one of my tapped holes. In retrospect, I probably could have gotten by with 3/16 inch screws (maybe)? The flange on the sprocket is very thin like 0.070 inch thick so it will not take any significant pry force. I would like to know how the dealer techs got these off!


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N
great job, should have puller holes from the factory.
I had wondered about that if it had puller holes.
Metal is likely cast iron, so easy to drill and tap.

A dealer might have heated to red hot that sprocket using acetylene torch.
Looks like some rust held it on.
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S
I've never encountered a Isuzu engine with the crankshaft sprocket stuck as bad as this one. Wonderful job removing this stubborn MF sproket
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Eric B
Mmm , I saw your post too late. You could get one or two metal hose clamps around the sprocket, and capture a small length of cut timing belt to protect the teeth. Then use a small puller to exert some outward pressure. You can really get the hose clamp tight. Eric
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