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Just bought a 94 trooper with 3.2 DOHC engine110,00miles.Enginesounds good but I know they have a problem with the valves. So should I flush engine and fill with synthetic oil? Also owner changed O2 sensor but light will not go out in dash, Is there a reset somewhere, or do I unhook ECM and that resets, so light will go out??? Thanks
 

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The only problem I know of with the valves in the 3.2L engine is a ticking/clicking type of noise. It's really nothing serious. If you look in Driveline Mods section of the forums you'll see a whole bunch of posts on the subject.

You didn't mention whether you had a noise or not. If you do then use some pre-oil change flushing fluid (to get the crap out) and put in good new motor oil and maybe some Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I'm using 10W40 and a quart of Lucas Oil in my 94 Trooper and it's not making any noise anymore.

From what I've read synthetic oil isn't generally recommended for really high mileage engines like yours -- the problem is that it's very very very slippery and it works its way into every little nook and cranny. Ordinarily that wouldn't be a problem with a newer engine -- but at 110k miles you've got a LOT of little nooks and crannies -- especially oil seals and piston rings! That synthetic oil will work it's way past the oil seals out of the engine, and it will work it's way past the oil control ring and piston rings into the combustion chamber and get burned off. So you're just putting expensive oil into a place where it's going to gradually disappear. You're wasting hard earned money and getting no real benefit.

Normal motor oil is what the engine is probably used to and it's not going to find as many places to escape. Lucas Oil will increase the lubricity of the oil (not viscosity) and make it more effective. It also helps recondition seals, so you lose less of your oil. If you're still getting the ticking noise it's not so much the oils fault as the inability of the oil to get to where it needs to be and stick around for a few seconds! You can try and remedy that by flushing as much gunk out as possible and using high detergent oils as well as a lubricity enhancer. That's what it took for me.

As for the O2 sensor, there is a switch (I believe it's on the printed circuit board of the instrument panel) that has to be flipped to reset the light. Get yourself a repair manual (buy or borrow) to find the location and the exact procedure. You'll probably need the book to get the instrument panel out properly anyhow -- and it's not a bad $15 investment.

Michael
 

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He is correct, the "switch" is on the back of the gauge cluster. The good news is that it is just a screw that you have to move from one hole to another. The bad news is that the console isn't always easy to remove, because one of the screws that holds it in in blocked by the steering column. There is a trick however: remove the other 3 screws (one from the bottom, two on top), then place a long screwdriver on the side screw that you can't reach. Hit the end of the screwdriver with your hand a few times (pretty hard) and you will break off that screw mount on the console. The other 3 screws will hold it in just fine.

It will be obvious once you remove the cover from around the console where the 4 screws are, and which one has to be broken off (I think that it is the left one on the bottom, but it might be the right).

-Tad
 
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