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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
When trimming the wheel well I took a couple measurements of the tire stuffed and how it might interfere with the sway bar. I have about 2in of clearance between the tire and the sway bar. So I was able to make some connection points for the bar when it's disconnected from the lower arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I've got some plans to build a set of flat or tube looking fenders similar to what the jeeps have going on lately. But for now I just put some edge trim on the cut fender and contoured the factory flare. Doesn't look great to me up close but at a distance it's ok. It's functional but not aesthetic in my eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Well after playing around on the trails out here I figured I better get some armor to protect my rocker panels. I ordered a set of 58in Tacoma sliders. They fit perfectly between the wheel wells. The kit came with 3 12in tubes to use for each side. Since my frame rail and body pinch weld are so close I was able to use 1 of the tubes and cut it into 3 pieces. I cut them down to 3.5 inches, and welded them up to some 1/4in brackets. I placed a gusset on the top of the tubes to tie into the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
After getting the passenger side all welded up I was wore out. I'll finish the drivers side in the next couple days. But this is how it looks so far. Haven't added any paint or bed liner yet, I do all that when the other side is done as well.
 

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Looks awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
And I finally got another winch. I couldn't put off buying one any longer. It and the solenoid fit, just barely. I'm eventually gonna build a new front bumper so I'm glad this fit with no effort to change anything now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
So years ago I bought a bent upper link from Joe D. Living out here in Las Vegas I've been more interested in making my rig more capable of exploring. I got around to checking my rear axle droop and I noticed the drivers/bent link side is 2-3 inches from contacting the fuel tank. I thought this odd. I researched a bit on the planet and found that the sway bar can limit axle droop. So I got out the tape and level. Ride height at the fenders was 36.5in. With the sway bar attached I jacked up the frame until I could get the tire to wiggle a little (not super accurate) It was around 41.5in L/R, that's 5in of droop. I then disconnected the sway bar on both sides and lifted both sides again, took measurements and got roughly 44in, almost an extra 3 in of droop... BUT,,, My coils were very loose and I could spin them with my hand easily (so no bueno), so I'm guessing the limiting factor now is the shocks (also no bueno). So I got to measuring a little and I fabbed up a couple sway bar drop brackets. I made them 2in long to compensate for my lift, (I have a 2.5in-ish lift in the rear). Installed the brackets and reconnected the sway bar, jacked up vehicle and took measurements. I have 6.5in of droop L/R with the sway bar doing the limiting. The coils are in their place but i can forcibly wiggle them but it's hard to rotate them.
SO,, I'm wondering if limit straps are the better approach to keeping my coils in place, or do I shorten up the bracket a tad and hope the links don't break? I have noticed that in my short time out here and playing off road a bit more, that the sway bar link holes aren't as snug as they used to be. I can see some of the threads of the links being mushed/mangled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
With the solenoid relocated I had to shift my battery around. On the factory battery tray the two rear tabs can be bent down and that allowed me to shift the battery. I had to make 2 new holes to use the factory tie down. I plan on going dual battery one day but I'll prob wait till I SAS and do the ABS delete to have more room for placement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Since I was on a electric hook up kick I decided to run wires and set up all my switches for future lights. I only have front and rear at the moment but I plan on getting a led bar and some side lights hooked up. I ran some 6/8ga wire into the cab to make a fuse bank for connecting everything to. Helped a bunch to unclutter the engine bay with wires going everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I moved a few of the factory switches around for better access and to prevent accidental activation. After testing all my connections I felt fine to reassemble my dash area. The factory hole for the 4x4/cruise/fog is just perfect to put a 4gang rocker panel over. I moved the center console power/winter switch to up on the dash and placed the anti-theft blinking red light to the console area. I don't use the hard top much so I had open slots from removing the rear window defrost and wiper switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
I'm just waiting on getting the rest of my lights in and I'll get all those plugged in and running. I haven't driven at night yet to see how bright the switches are. I may look into getting a dimmer to work with them or I'll lightly coat them with something to soften up the light. The switch panel looks pretty good. I just need to get better looking screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Went out last night on a trail near my house. I found a couple spots to see how the rear axle would flex with the extended brackets for the sway bar. It flexed pretty good. I could move the coil a little but I think I'm going to go with limiting straps to be safe. And then the other side compressed really good and I was able to find where I been making contact in the rear. On occasion I'd hear the tread rubbing.
 

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