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Discussion Starter · #141 ·
When trimming the wheel well I took a couple measurements of the tire stuffed and how it might interfere with the sway bar. I have about 2in of clearance between the tire and the sway bar. So I was able to make some connection points for the bar when it's disconnected from the lower arm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
I've got some plans to build a set of flat or tube looking fenders similar to what the jeeps have going on lately. But for now I just put some edge trim on the cut fender and contoured the factory flare. Doesn't look great to me up close but at a distance it's ok. It's functional but not aesthetic in my eyes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 ·
Well after playing around on the trails out here I figured I better get some armor to protect my rocker panels. I ordered a set of 58in Tacoma sliders. They fit perfectly between the wheel wells. The kit came with 3 12in tubes to use for each side. Since my frame rail and body pinch weld are so close I was able to use 1 of the tubes and cut it into 3 pieces. I cut them down to 3.5 inches, and welded them up to some 1/4in brackets. I placed a gusset on the top of the tubes to tie into the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #146 ·
After getting the passenger side all welded up I was wore out. I'll finish the drivers side in the next couple days. But this is how it looks so far. Haven't added any paint or bed liner yet, I do all that when the other side is done as well.
 

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Looks awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·
Hello All,
I got around to getting the drivers side rock bar done up. It was much easy doing this side. All my measuring and trial and error from the passenger side were done. Still have to paint em but I'm being lazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
And I finally got another winch. I couldn't put off buying one any longer. It and the solenoid fit, just barely. I'm eventually gonna build a new front bumper so I'm glad this fit with no effort to change anything now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
So years ago I bought a bent upper link from Joe D. Living out here in Las Vegas I've been more interested in making my rig more capable of exploring. I got around to checking my rear axle droop and I noticed the drivers/bent link side is 2-3 inches from contacting the fuel tank. I thought this odd. I researched a bit on the planet and found that the sway bar can limit axle droop. So I got out the tape and level. Ride height at the fenders was 36.5in. With the sway bar attached I jacked up the frame until I could get the tire to wiggle a little (not super accurate) It was around 41.5in L/R, that's 5in of droop. I then disconnected the sway bar on both sides and lifted both sides again, took measurements and got roughly 44in, almost an extra 3 in of droop... BUT,,, My coils were very loose and I could spin them with my hand easily (so no bueno), so I'm guessing the limiting factor now is the shocks (also no bueno). So I got to measuring a little and I fabbed up a couple sway bar drop brackets. I made them 2in long to compensate for my lift, (I have a 2.5in-ish lift in the rear). Installed the brackets and reconnected the sway bar, jacked up vehicle and took measurements. I have 6.5in of droop L/R with the sway bar doing the limiting. The coils are in their place but i can forcibly wiggle them but it's hard to rotate them.
SO,, I'm wondering if limit straps are the better approach to keeping my coils in place, or do I shorten up the bracket a tad and hope the links don't break? I have noticed that in my short time out here and playing off road a bit more, that the sway bar link holes aren't as snug as they used to be. I can see some of the threads of the links being mushed/mangled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
Routed my cab switch wires in and connected them up to the solenoid. Tried to take my time and make it look good. Used some wire loom to route the wires to protect them and keep them from being so visible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
With the solenoid relocated I had to shift my battery around. On the factory battery tray the two rear tabs can be bent down and that allowed me to shift the battery. I had to make 2 new holes to use the factory tie down. I plan on going dual battery one day but I'll prob wait till I SAS and do the ABS delete to have more room for placement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
Since I was on a electric hook up kick I decided to run wires and set up all my switches for future lights. I only have front and rear at the moment but I plan on getting a led bar and some side lights hooked up. I ran some 6/8ga wire into the cab to make a fuse bank for connecting everything to. Helped a bunch to unclutter the engine bay with wires going everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
I moved a few of the factory switches around for better access and to prevent accidental activation. After testing all my connections I felt fine to reassemble my dash area. The factory hole for the 4x4/cruise/fog is just perfect to put a 4gang rocker panel over. I moved the center console power/winter switch to up on the dash and placed the anti-theft blinking red light to the console area. I don't use the hard top much so I had open slots from removing the rear window defrost and wiper switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
I'm just waiting on getting the rest of my lights in and I'll get all those plugged in and running. I haven't driven at night yet to see how bright the switches are. I may look into getting a dimmer to work with them or I'll lightly coat them with something to soften up the light. The switch panel looks pretty good. I just need to get better looking screws.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Went out last night on a trail near my house. I found a couple spots to see how the rear axle would flex with the extended brackets for the sway bar. It flexed pretty good. I could move the coil a little but I think I'm going to go with limiting straps to be safe. And then the other side compressed really good and I was able to find where I been making contact in the rear. On occasion I'd hear the tread rubbing.
 

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