[Snorkel]

I think it best to check the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) wiring before attempting repairs on the broken wires, run a continuity test on the CKP wires
E-22 (Red) Pin 5 to Crankshaft Position Sensor Pin 1(Yellow/Red)
E-21 (Blue) Pin 53 to Crankshaft Position Sensor Pin 2 (Green)
E-21 (Blue) Pin 73 to Crankshaft Position Sensor Pin 3 (Yellow)
View attachment 123599

Continuity on all three.

 

[Buster28]

Ok see if you can find the wire break starting with E-21 (Blue) Pin 80 which is a Blue wire at the bottom left on the wire side of the connector.

If the wire is not broken at the connector ends, the wire usually breaks at sharp radius bends. Unwrap the harness and manipulate the wires with your meter set on tone so you can hear if/when the broken wires make contact.

 

[Snorkel]

Ok see if you can find the wire break starting with E-21 (Blue) Pin 80 which is a Blue wire at the bottom left on the wire side of the connector.

If the wire is not broken at the connector ends, the wire usually breaks at sharp radius bends. Unwrap the harness and manipulate the wires with your meter set on tone so you can hear if/when the broken wires make contact.

As I am sure you know, to unwrap the harness at any point would be a monstrous task. It is attached at various hard to get to points and shielded with flexible

plastic wire wrap. Wouldn't it be much easier to just run replacement wiring along the wrap? I have needle tested everywhere I can see the orange and yellow wire with no resistance from E-22 pins 11 & 12. By the way does the connector in the picture serve the H-6?

 

[Buster28]

You stated
" I can see the orange and yellow wire with no resistance from E-22 pins 11 & 12."
E-22 pins 11 & 12 are not the correct pins to be testing

"By the way does the connector in the picture serve the H-6?"
Just a retainer that probably is not needed. However, retaining the wire harness to the head cover that gets very hot and shakes a lot is probably not a good idea.

I really don't understand how there can be 3 open wires involving the APS sensor between the H-6 connector and the PCM connector since the truck was operational before the antenna installation.

Do the wire colors on the PCM connectors and the H-6 connector match for the 3 wires in question?
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to H6 Pin 11 APS#3 (+5 Vdc reference)
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to H-6 Pin 13 APS#2 (Signal)
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to to H-6 Pin 10 APS#2 (Ground)

 

[Snorkel]

You stated
" I can see the orange and yellow wire with no resistance from E-22 pins 11 & 12."
E-22 pins 11 & 12 are not the correct pins to be testing

"By the way does the connector in the picture serve the H-6?"
Just a retainer that probably is not needed. However, retaining the wire harness to the head cover that gets very hot and shakes a lot is probably not a good idea.

I really don't understand how there can be 3 open wires involving the APS sensor between the H-6 connector and the PCM connector since the truck was operational before the antenna installation.

Do the wire colors on the PCM connectors and the H-6 connector match for the 3 wires in question?
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to H6 Pin 11 APS#3 (+5 Vdc reference)
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to H-6 Pin 13 APS#2 (Signal)
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to to H-6 Pin 10 APS#2 (Ground)

I'll get to that tomorrow. In the meantime, here is something informative. I found the H-18 connector you mentioned a few days ago. It is behind the right kick panel, but it is an 18 pin connector. I located it through a Russian site called Yandex, of all places. It is listed as serving the power outside rear view mirrors. I doubt that it is anything worth testing, but you would know.

 

[Snorkel]

I'll get to that tomorrow. In the meantime, here is something informative. I found the H-18 connector you mentioned a few days ago. It is behind the right kick panel, but it is an 18 pin connector. I located it through a Russian site called Yandex, of all places. It is listed as serving the power outside rear view mirrors. I doubt that it is anything worth testing, but you would know. View attachment 123617

Again, I apologize. I tested from E-22 pins 78 and 77. I don't know why I sent the wrong info. I guess I was getting punchy.

 

[Buster28]

Btw you were looking for H-58 which is a 8 pin, not H-18

 

[Snorkel]

Btw you were looking for H-58 which is a 8 pin, not H-18

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I was referring to H-18 mentioned on April 15th, showing the difference between the Rodeo and Trooper right kick panel connectors. It was just a passing point of information. As for the three open wires, there is no way of knowing what the short actually caused, given that a local mechanic was working on it and a PCM repair service was, as well. Both or either one could have botched it up. The original PCM may not even have the original circuit board. As we know an (8093935190) PCM is very rare and worth a lot of money. I'm just speculating on these issuers. At this point, I just want to make my Trooper run, and if I have to run new, spliced in wiring, I'm willing. What do you suggest?

 

[Snorkel]

Sorry, I should have been more specific. I was referring to H-18 mentioned on April 15th, showing the difference between the Rodeo and Trooper right kick panel connectors. It was just a passing point of information. As for the three open wires, there is no way of knowing what the short actually caused, given that a local mechanic was working on it and a PCM repair service was, as well. Both or either one could have botched it up. The original PCM may not even have the original circuit board. As we know an (8093935190) PCM is very rare and worth a lot of money. I'm just speculating on these issuers. At this point, I just want to make my Trooper run, and if I have to run new, spliced in wiring, I'm willing. What do you suggest?

Also, you asked, "
Do the wire colors on the PCM connectors and the H-6 connector match for the 3 wires in question?
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to H6 Pin 11 APS#3 (+5 Vdc reference)
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to H-6 Pin 13 APS#2 (Signal)
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to to H-6 Pin 10 APS#2 (Ground) "
Yes, to all three.

 

[Buster28]

If you decide to run new wires it would my recommendation to splice close to the PCM connector and run the wires through the firewall to the APS connector. Make sure the wire you splice into at the PCM is actually connected to the Red/Blue connector electrical socket.

PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to APS#3 Connector Pin 1
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to APS#2Connector PIn 9
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to APS#2 Connector Pin 3

Don't cut any wires just make temp splices to ensure it works before major surgery

 

[Snorkel]

If you decide to run new wires it would my recommendation to splice close to the PCM connector and run the wires through the firewall to the APS connector. Make sure the wire you splice into at the PCM is actually connected to the Red/Blue connector electrical socket.

PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to APS#3 Connector Pin 1
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to APS#2Connector PIn 9
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to APS#2 Connector Pin 3

Don't cut any wires just make temp splices to ensure it works before major surgery

Why not just to the H-6 connector?

 

[Buster28]

The fewer the connectors the fewer potential problems.
Double check the connections with the attached schematic.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO EXPAND

 

[Snorkel]

The fewer the connectors the fewer potential problems.
Double check the connections with the attached schematic.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO EXPAND

The fewer the connectors the fewer potential problems.
Double check the connections with the attached schematic.

CLICK ON IMAGE TO EXPAND

So, if I just do the three connections you listed for the APS, it will take care of the H-6? What about the TPS & CKP?

 

[Buster28]

So, if I just do the three connections you listed for the APS, it will take care of the H-6? What about the TPS & CKP?

You checked the CKP wires on the 29th and said they were OK
You checked the TPS#2 wiring back when we started troubleshooting

 

[Snorkel]

You checked the CKP wires on the 29th and said they were OK
You checked the TPS#2 wiring back when we started troubleshooting

So that I am fully understanding you, if I just rewire the three connections you listed for the APS, it will take care of the H-6 problems also?

 

[Buster28]

The objective is to connect the three PCM connector pins directly to the APS connector pins and bypass the H-6 connector.
What I still do not understand is how the 3 wires became open ("broken") in the time between you installing the antenna and now. Any indication that rodents have been chewing on the wire harnesses?
Any possibility the guy that worked on the truck could have damaged the wires during troubleshooting.
Are you sure your on the correct pins and correct connectors.
Look at the schematic I posted and trace out the three wires and verify the connections.

 

[Snorkel]

The objective is to connect the three PCM connector pins directly to the APS connector pins and bypass the H-6 connector.
What I still do not understand is how the 3 wires became open ("broken") in the time between you installing the antenna and now. Any indication that rodents have been chewing on the wire harnesses?
Any possibility the guy that worked on the truck could have damaged the wires during troubleshooting.
Are you sure your on the correct pins and correct connectors.
Look at the schematic I posted and trace out the three wires and verify the connections.

I'm confused about your statement:
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to APS#3 Connector Pin 1
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to APS#2Connector Pin 9
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to APS#2 Connector Pin 3

I don't understand what is meant by "APS#3 and APS#2. Also, I'm not yet very knowledgeable about schematics. Are there more than one APS sensor? I only know of one that is attached to the pedal.
In answer to your questions, I don't really know what the mechanic did, other than change parts. So, I don't understand how the wires became broken either.

 

[Snorkel]

I'm confused about your statement:
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 77 Orange to APS#3 Connector Pin 1
PCM (Red) E-22 Pin 78 Yellow to APS#2Connector Pin 9
PCM (Blue)E-21 Pin 80 Blue to APS#2 Connector Pin 3

I don't understand what is meant by "APS#3 and APS#2. Also, I'm not yet very knowledgeable about schematics. Are there more than one APS sensor? I only know of one that is attached to the pedal.
In answer to your questions, I don't really know what the mechanic did, other than change parts. So, I don't understand how the wires became broken either.

This is the Trooper APS:

 

[Buster28]

You truck has an electronic module attached to the accelerator pedal, this module is called the Accelerator Position Sensor (APS). The module contains three separate potentiometers identified as APS#1, APS#2 and APS#3, Each potentiometer has three electrical connections, one for the +5 Vdc reference, one for the Ground (battery negative) and one for the output signal. The total resistance of each potentiometer is; APS#1 3500 ohms, APS#2 3500 ohms and APS#3 5600 ohms. The potentiometer is a variable resistor using the accelerator pedal as the mechanical input to vary the resistance causing the output voltage to operate in a range of 0 to +5 Vdc . There are three APS potentiometers with three wires each for a total of nine wires needed to connect the to APS module to the PCM. Each APS bundle of three wires is shielded with shield grounded one end.

The problem on your truck is that aliens or your mechanic has caused three of the APS wires to become open apparently inside the wiring harness between the H-6 connector and the PCM connector. This was determined by checking the continuity of each of the nine wires with the ohm meter. The only way to fix the problem is to connect a wire to bridge the broken spot in the wire.

Reconnect all the connectors except the PCM and the and APS connector and rerun the continuity test to verify the initial findings.

APS#1 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 10 to PCM E-22 Pin 36 (Black)
APS#2 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 8 to PCM E-21 Pin 2 (Green)
APS#3 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 1 to PCM E-22 Pin 77 (Orange)

APS#1 Ground APS connector Pin 4 to PCM E-21 Pin 63 (Red)
APS#2 Ground APS connector Pin 3 to PCM E-21 Pin 80 (Blue)
APS#3 Ground APS connector Pin 7 to PCM E-22 Pin 41 (Orange/Blue)

APS#1 Output Signal APS connector Pin 5 to PCM E-22 Pin 68 (White)
APS#2 Output Signal APS connector Pin 9 to PCM E-22 Pin 78 (Yellow)
APS#3 Output Signal APS connector Pin 6 to PCM E-22 Pin 79 (Blue/Green)

E-21 is the Blue PCM connector // E-22 is the Red PCM connector

 

[Snorkel]

You truck has an electronic module attached to the accelerator pedal, this module is called the Accelerator Position Sensor (APS). The module contains three separate potentiometers identified as APS#1, APS#2 and APS#3, Each potentiometer has three electrical connections, one for the +5 Vdc reference, one for the Ground (battery negative) and one for the output signal. The total resistance of each potentiometer is; APS#1 3500 ohms, APS#2 3500 ohms and APS#3 5600 ohms. The potentiometer is a variable resistor using the accelerator pedal the mechanical input to vary the resistance causing the output voltage to operate in a range of 0 to +5 Vdc . There are three APS potentiometers with three wires each for a total of nine wires needed to connect the to APS module to the PCM. Each APS bundle of three wires is shielded with shield grounded one end.

The problem on your truck is that aliens or your mechanic has caused three of the APS wires to become open apparently inside the wiring harness between the H-6 connector and the PCM connector. This was determined by checking the continuity of each of the nine wires with the ohm meter. The only way to fix the problem is to connect a wire to bridge the broken spot in the wire.

Reconnect all the connectors except the PCM and the and APS connector and rerun the continuity test to verify the initial findings.

APS#1 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 10 to PCM E-22 Pin 36 (Black)
APS#2 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 8 to PCM E-21 Pin 2 (Green)
APS#3 +5 Vdc APS connector Pin 1 to PCM E-22 Pin 77 (Orange)

APS#1 Ground APS connector Pin 4 to PCM E-21 Pin 63 (Red)
APS#2 Ground APS connector Pin 3 to PCM E-21 Pin 80 (Blue)
APS#3 Ground APS connector Pin 7 to PCM E-22 Pin 41 (Orange/Blue)

APS#1 Output Signal APS connector Pin 5 to PCM E-22 Pin 68 (White)
APS#2 Output Signal APS connector Pin 9 to PCM E-22 Pin 78 (Yellow)
APS#3 Output Signal APS connector Pin 6 to PCM E-22 Pin 79 (Blue/Green)

E-21 is the Blue PCM connector // E-22 is the Red PCM connector
View attachment 123649

Thank you for the explanation. I'm not confused now. I have a lot going tomorrow and will do the following if there is time. Otherwise, it will be Thursday.