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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I stupidly fried my ECU by forgetting to disconnect the negative battery cable while installing a power antenna. I sent if off for repair and it was returned as "not repairable. Anyone have a 8093935190 ECU? Please respond here or email at [email protected].
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
00-02 Trooper use the same Powertrain Control Module (PCM) "ECU"
You can use an auto transmission PCM which is a lot easier to find to get you back on the road while you search out the hard to find manual transmission version. Be aware that if you use an auto transmission PCM the CEL will constantly be illuminated because the PCM thinks there are transmission electrical problems.
Thank you Buster,
I have read that elsewhere and may not have to resort to that. I've found two sources already the have the manual tranny ECU/PCM. They are pricey, but after I get the auto tranny version paid for and programmed, I will probably be in the same place. But, I won't forget your post, should the others no pan out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, maybe I don't have to. I'm just going by what the repair shops tell me. Perhaps only when electronic repair is done is when it needs to be reprogrammed. Also, some of those I have seen on eBay state that they need reprogramming, but they may not know any more about it than I do. This is totally new territory for me, so this is one reason I want to get one for a standard shift, if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for that. This makes my search much easier and maybe less expensive. I suppose the only time the ECU might need reprogramming is if it is repaired electronically. Is that true?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was installing a power antenna and forgot to disconnect the negative battery cable. When I was hooking up to the power lead to the radio, it dropped from my hand and fell on the radio. This produced a sizable spark and the Trooper would not start after that. I had it towed to my mechanic who replaced the gas pedal sensor, the throttle position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor with no success.
As stated before, before my mechanic replaced the other parts, I sent the ECU to a company in Jacksonville, FL. They returned it without telling me it was unrepairable. In the meantime, this accounted for the part changes. Only when I called them to tell them the ECU was not working did they tell me they are refunding my money, and the ECU was unrepairable. So, I can't blame my mechanic. I got burned because of the ECU repair shop's negligence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, the radio fuse blew and was replaced. The ECU was a process of elimination. I didn't know for sure until I called the company in Jacksonville that told me it was unrepairable. Can you think of anything else that is causing it not to start? My mechanic says he cannot get a spark from the plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My mechanic mentioned that. The plugs into it are fine. Perhaps it needs replacing. I may get a used one from eBay to test it. I see one for $30 with a warrantee. I'm going to give it a go for that little amount. I had the Trooper towed back home. I believe I can trust your advice, since my mechanic seems to be just fishing around. Anyhow, there is not much left to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I called him and he said he did. I remember him mentioning something about the fuel injectors some time ago. This is when he spoke of the Ignition control module. If there is no change, I'll try a ECU for an auto trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just called him and he said there was no signal when he applied the NOID lamp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Already have a new CPS installed. No change. Fuel pump works. After the Ion Sense module, the only thing left seems to be the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok, so no spark no fuel but with new Crankshaft Position Sensor. Don't buy the Ion Sense Ignition module.
What is the difference between an ECU labeled "Blue" and one labeled "Red"
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ok, so no spark no fuel but with new Crankshaft Position Sensor. Don't buy the Ion Sense Ignition module.
Please ignore my last post. I see now that it is red for the red connector and blue on the other side for the blue connector. Sometimes I'm a moron. And, as I get older, it becomes more frequent.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Correct, the PCM/ECU has a Red 80 pin and a Blue 80 pin electrical connector.
Hello again, Buster
Regarding using the automatic transmission ECU in place of the standard transmission on my 2001 Trooper, I finally got one, but it didn't work. I know for a fact that the 8093935190 manual ECU is toast. I opened it up and one area on the CB was burned. My question is, do you know if I need to do something special with the 8093935090 auto ECU to get in to work in my 2001 Trooper? Also, can the auto one be programmed to work? I've tried two of these online parts locators, neither were successful in finding the manual trans ECU. A nearby repair shop that specializes in Isuzu trucks had the idea of swapping electronic components from the good one to the bad one. They told me today that their ET said it could not be done. So, I am back at square one. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The 8093935090 PCM/ECM is for a 2000 Trooper but your 2001 3.5L engine is identical to a 2000 3.5L so it should work OK. The difference between the auto trans version and manual trans version of the PCM/ECM is the 4L30e circuitry. Maybe your problem does not involve the PCM/ECM or possibly you let the smoke out of the 8093935090 PCM/ECM as well.
Thanks for the reply and the information. My 8093935190 manual ecm is definitely fried. I opened it up and it is burned. I have not opened the 8093935090. So, I don't suppose I let the smoke out. By the way, what does that mean? Also, the gas pedal position, throttle position and crankshaft position sensors have been replaced. The fuel pump is working. Still the auto trans version won't. I think I have a line on a used 190, but I'm going to have a local mechanic who specializes in Isuzu trucks install it and check everything out. I don't doubt what you are saying and there may very well be some other problem. I'll let the mechanic figure that out.

The 8093935090 PCM/ECM is for a 2000 Trooper but your 2001 3.5L engine is identical to a 2000 3.5L so it should work OK. The difference between the auto trans version and manual trans version of the PCM/ECM is the 4L30e circuitry. Maybe your problem does not involve the PCM/ECM or possibly you let the smoke out of the 8093935090 PCM/ECM as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The 8093935090 PCM/ECM is for a 2000 Trooper but your 2001 3.5L engine is identical to a 2000 3.5L so it should work OK. The difference between the auto trans version and manual trans version of the PCM/ECM is the 4L30e circuitry. Maybe your problem does not involve the PCM/ECM or possibly you let the smoke out of the 8093935090 PCM/ECM as well.
Hello again Buster, Over these past few months I have dealt with four online parts provider sources, Performance Auto Parts (Illinois), All American Car Parts *Florida), Star Auto Parts (Florida) and My Auto Street (California). All but one had the same background music but denied being associated with the others. Anyhow, I sent payment of $228, $450, $475 and $230 respectively. After several weeks with each "company", they finally admitted that they could not find the part (Trooper ECU 8093935190), even after adamantly stating they had access to it.

In addition to these time wasters, I have purchase two ECU's on eBay for the automatic transmission version 80939350190 as per your suggestion. Neither has worked, even though I sent one to G7 Computers for "programming". I know you told me that shouldn't be necessary, but I still had to try.

Anyhow, when I turn on the ignition, I get the "Reduced Power" light and the 4 wheel drive light pulses bright to dim. When the switch is pressed, I can hear the servo engage and the light stays bright. I can also enable the cruise control. At least the light comes on. I'm wondering if something else is the problem now. I know for a fact that the original ECU is fried. As you may remember, I replace the gas pedal sensor, the throttle sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Any thoughts. Thanks a million for your expertise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hey Buster, I did like you instructed and got a little more than a13.7v reading on the engine side of the relay pin and a .95v on the fender side. I've notice too that the 4WD light dims and brightens, even when the ECU relay is out. Also, I've noticed that when all is hooked up and the ignition switch to run, the TPS closed the butterfly valve tighter with a click. I don't know if that is normal or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Two of the ECM power relay socket pins should have battery voltage on them. One is continuous and one is switched On/Off by the Ignition Switch. 13.7 Vdc and 0.95 Vdc is unexpected, which of the two is switched?

Does the socket have five pins?
The socket only has two socket pins. The results with the ignition off is: 13.4v for the engine side and 2.3v for the fender side. With the ignition on it's 13.4v for the engine side and .96 for the fender side. I double checked it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
The PCM Power Relay has to have more than 2 pins (typically 5) so apparently your fuse and relay box does not match the diagram I posted. See if you can locate the PCM Power Relay in the fuse and relay box and rerun the test. View attachment 122935
Yes, I picked the wrong thing. I picked a 30a fuse. Now that I have the correct one #13, it has four pins. The test showed that power was constant to one and with the ign. on to the other. I took it a step further and applied 12v + to one and 12v - to one across on the relay and heard a click sound. However, the tester showed no power to the adjacent side. See attachments. Perhaps the relay is faulty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes, I picked the wrong thing. I picked a 30a fuse. Now that I have the correct one #13, it has four pins. The test showed that power was constant to one and with the ign. on to the other. I took it a step further and applied 12v + to one and 12v - to one across on the relay and heard a click sound. However, the tester showed no power to the adjacent side. See attachments. Perhaps the relay is faulty.
To clarify, I applied pwr to the following terminals and the relay clicked:
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Since you have determined which two pins are the relay coil, bench test the relay by checking the actual resistance between the other two pins when you apply 12 Vdc across the coil pins. The expected resistance is less than 1/2 ohm with 12 Vdc applied and infinity with power removed.
Since you have determined which two pins are the relay coil, bench test the relay by checking the actual resistance between the other two pins when you apply 12 Vdc across the coil pins. The expected resistance is less than 1/2 ohm with 12 Vdc applied and infinity with power removed.
I tried two different multi-testers and got 1.7 ohms from both. Sounds like the relay is bad. Yes?
 
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