I stupidly fried my ECU by forgetting to disconnect the negative battery cable while installing a power antenna. I sent if off for repair and it was returned as "not repairable. Anyone have a 8093935190 ECU? Please respond here or email at [email protected].
Posts by Snorkel
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Thank you Buster,
I have read that elsewhere and may not have to resort to that. I've found two sources already the have the manual tranny ECU/PCM. They are pricey, but after I get the auto tranny version paid for and programmed, I will probably be in the same place. But, I won't forget your post, should the others no pan out.
Well, maybe I don't have to. I'm just going by what the repair shops tell me. Perhaps only when electronic repair is done is when it needs to be reprogrammed. Also, some of those I have seen on eBay state that they need reprogramming, but they may not know any more about it than I do. This is totally new territory for me, so this is one reason I want to get one for a standard shift, if I can.
I was installing a power antenna and forgot to disconnect the negative battery cable. When I was hooking up to the power lead to the radio, it dropped from my hand and fell on the radio. This produced a sizable spark and the Trooper would not start after that. I had it towed to my mechanic who replaced the gas pedal sensor, the throttle position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor with no success.
As stated before, before my mechanic replaced the other parts, I sent the ECU to a company in Jacksonville, FL. They returned it without telling me it was unrepairable. In the meantime, this accounted for the part changes. Only when I called them to tell them the ECU was not working did they tell me they are refunding my money, and the ECU was unrepairable. So, I can't blame my mechanic. I got burned because of the ECU repair shop's negligence.
As stated before, before my mechanic replaced the other parts, I sent the ECU to a company in Jacksonville, FL. They returned it without telling me it was unrepairable. In the meantime, this accounted for the part changes. Only when I called them to tell them the ECU was not working did they tell me they are refunding my money, and the ECU was unrepairable. So, I can't blame my mechanic. I got burned because of the ECU repair shop's negligence.
Yes, the radio fuse blew and was replaced. The ECU was a process of elimination. I didn't know for sure until I called the company in Jacksonville that told me it was unrepairable. Can you think of anything else that is causing it not to start? My mechanic says he cannot get a spark from the plugs.
My mechanic mentioned that. The plugs into it are fine. Perhaps it needs replacing. I may get a used one from eBay to test it. I see one for $30 with a warrantee. I'm going to give it a go for that little amount. I had the Trooper towed back home. I believe I can trust your advice, since my mechanic seems to be just fishing around. Anyhow, there is not much left to replace.
What is the difference between an ECU labeled "Blue" and one labeled "Red"
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Hello again, Buster
Regarding using the automatic transmission ECU in place of the standard transmission on my 2001 Trooper, I finally got one, but it didn't work. I know for a fact that the 8093935190 manual ECU is toast. I opened it up and one area on the CB was burned. My question is, do you know if I need to do something special with the 8093935090 auto ECU to get in to work in my 2001 Trooper? Also, can the auto one be programmed to work? I've tried two of these online parts locators, neither were successful in finding the manual trans ECU. A nearby repair shop that specializes in Isuzu trucks had the idea of swapping electronic components from the good one to the bad one. They told me today that their ET said it could not be done. So, I am back at square one. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for the reply and the information. My 8093935190 manual ecm is definitely fried. I opened it up and it is burned. I have not opened the 8093935090. So, I don't suppose I let the smoke out. By the way, what does that mean? Also, the gas pedal position, throttle position and crankshaft position sensors have been replaced. The fuel pump is working. Still the auto trans version won't. I think I have a line on a used 190, but I'm going to have a local mechanic who specializes in Isuzu trucks install it and check everything out. I don't doubt what you are saying and there may very well be some other problem. I'll let the mechanic figure that out.
Hello again Buster, Over these past few months I have dealt with four online parts provider sources, Performance Auto Parts (Illinois), All American Car Parts *Florida), Star Auto Parts (Florida) and My Auto Street (California). All but one had the same background music but denied being associated with the others. Anyhow, I sent payment of $228, $450, $475 and $230 respectively. After several weeks with each "company", they finally admitted that they could not find the part (Trooper ECU 8093935190), even after adamantly stating they had access to it.
In addition to these time wasters, I have purchase two ECU's on eBay for the automatic transmission version 80939350190 as per your suggestion. Neither has worked, even though I sent one to G7 Computers for "programming". I know you told me that shouldn't be necessary, but I still had to try.
Anyhow, when I turn on the ignition, I get the "Reduced Power" light and the 4 wheel drive light pulses bright to dim. When the switch is pressed, I can hear the servo engage and the light stays bright. I can also enable the cruise control. At least the light comes on. I'm wondering if something else is the problem now. I know for a fact that the original ECU is fried. As you may remember, I replace the gas pedal sensor, the throttle sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Any thoughts. Thanks a million for your expertise.
Hey Buster, I did like you instructed and got a little more than a13.7v reading on the engine side of the relay pin and a .95v on the fender side. I've notice too that the 4WD light dims and brightens, even when the ECU relay is out. Also, I've noticed that when all is hooked up and the ignition switch to run, the TPS closed the butterfly valve tighter with a click. I don't know if that is normal or not.
The socket only has two socket pins. The results with the ignition off is: 13.4v for the engine side and 2.3v for the fender side. With the ignition on it's 13.4v for the engine side and .96 for the fender side. I double checked it.
Yes, I picked the wrong thing. I picked a 30a fuse. Now that I have the correct one #13, it has four pins. The test showed that power was constant to one and with the ign. on to the other. I took it a step further and applied 12v + to one and 12v - to one across on the relay and heard a click sound. However, the tester showed no power to the adjacent side. See attachments. Perhaps the relay is faulty.
Attachments
To clarify, I applied pwr to the following terminals and the relay clicked:
Attachments
I tried two different multi-testers and got 1.7 ohms from both. Sounds like the relay is bad. Yes?
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