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I have a 2000 rodeo with about 118K on it, for several months it has been stalling when I stop, it jerks and stutters at highway speeds, when it doesn't stall at stops, the rpm's rev up and down from about 0 to 1200. I had a new EGR installed that didn't help. Oh, and I had installed new plugs prior to all this starting (champions) the dealer said some cylinders were misfiring and that I should change to NGK's which I did but that didn't help. Recently I put in a new PCV valve and I didn't notice anything for about a day, then all the problems came back with a vengeance. Anyone have a suggestion ?
 

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It is for sure the intake manifold gasket. To check this, start your truck, get a can of carb cleaner, spray around the intake manifold gasket (where it meets the block) Once the engine starts to rev higher, you found the spot. If you have basic mechanic skills you can replace this yourself, or if you have a warranty that might help. 98-2001 Rodeo's and Amigo's are notorious for having a broken intake manifold gasket. Also do a search on it and you will see the classic symptoms. Go to st.charles isuzu (do a search online) and order a gasket, they may give you an online discount, ask them about it

kevan
 

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I second the opinion on the intake gasket being the culprit. St. Charles Isuzu will give you the parts for 15% under cost and no tax, or shipping. Their # is: 1-800-727-8066

The carb spray doesn't always work, I tried using propane with an extension hose. Mine never reacted like it should have. I even put it under the manifold and moved it around.

It's not too bad of a do it yourself job.

Joe
 

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I have been experiencing the same problems with my 2000 rodeo.I havent checked the intake manifold but a morning of fishing aroun we found what seems to be a clogged injector.When the suspect injectors location was changed whatever cylinder we connected it to would misfire.

Do you guys think an injector cleaning service will help or just put in a new injector and a clean service.Or do you think I should focus on the intake manifold gasket. :?
 

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If the injector moves and so does the problem of course you need to fix the injector. When you have it out do you see a problem? Wouldn't hurt to try and clean it first before doing a replacement. Probably wouldn't hurt to routinely (once a month or every other month) do a can of Techron in the tank. I can't see paying a shop for their service especially if you clean/replace the bad injector yourself.

I wouldn't recommend looking for another problem until you fix the injector issue. Once that is done check for a IMG leak if you still have problems. It only takes a minute or two, way easier than moving injectors around.
 

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Thanks for the input on the injector.I'll give it a shot then check the IMG.

What do you suggest to use as a cleaning solution for the injector?
 

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Well I asked for an opinion on the stalling and bucking due to sudden RPM drop in my 2000 rodeo and was given some great advice - thank you guys.It turned out not to be an injector problem.

I decided to go to the dealership to see what they had to say.I can feel some of you out there cringing as you read this!Well then read on,you'll love this; I sit down to talk to a service rep and am promptly told that I need $1225.00 worth of servicing :roll: This was BEFORE I even told him what the problem was. :evil: After telling him I had already done most of that servicing and described the problems I was having with the IMG's and the stalling and that the fuel level indicator was fried they suggested 2 hrs of diagnostic at $110.00 per hr.I also asked about warranty coverage for the IMG's as I am at 98000k as well as the fuel level indicator as I thought the fuel indicator repair may be a warranty item also?Anyone aware of this?The "stealership" of course denied that neither the IMG's nor the gas indicator were covered to ther knowledge, that I should just put it on the hoist and they would "look into it" and let me know. :x I am the second owner but dealer didn't even ask that, said no right away.

So I go back to my guy with the gaskets - he does a "smoke test" to check for leaks and finds serious leaks in the IMG's so we replace the gaskets.No more leaks and misfiring seems better but truck is stil stalling every time I stop at a light and RPM's still diving to '0' for about 2-3 seconds then truck lurches forward when RPM's return to normal.Also every time the RPM's drop the cruise button and the cruise set indicator light on the instrument cluster light up until RPM's settle back to normal level.This makes me wonder if this problem is the idle control module as that unit has the cruise control tied into it.However a friend thinks it may be the o2 senser on the air intake pipe between my K&N air filter and the manifold.What do you guys think?Sorry to be so wordy but I am at a loss as to what to do.This problem is annoying to say the least.Any help is greatly appreciated. :?
 

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98000, thats about right for an o2 sensor. Some shops are equiped to test your o2 sensor; the dealer is for shure. But, based on your experience with these monkeys, you could save yourself some grip if you just goto auto zone or any auto supply store and buy the o2 sensor yourself and install it. (You can do it in the parking lot). Just ask them and they will loan you they right socket for the install with a $5 deposit.
BOSCH will set you back around $50 bucks<-------Get the bosch
Valucraft ---------------------------$46 bucks
 

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Even if this is not the IMG, it sounds like an air leak problem to me. Although the surging could be an IAC, the surging and stalling sounds like an air leak. Check all of the vacuum hoses and intake piping, to include the line to the brake booster, to ensure that nothing is leaking.

Regards,
Tom
 

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A KandN

They can fowl up the MAP with their oil. I would clean the MAP (rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip; be super careful).

Also, the surging sounds like the the power steering sensor (a sensor that ups the RPM when the wheels are turn full in one direction) is messed up. The fix for this is to unplug it and forget about it. Try it out and see what happens.

Also, your Dealer is bending you over (yes you are out of warranty) but the intake gaskets and the fuel send unit cost about 100 total. 2 hours of labor for the IMG and 3 (tops) for the fuel indicator.

Read through this trend:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbullet ... t=steering
 

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I had a similar issue on another vehichle that turned out to be the IAC (idle air control for the less saavy).

This is a solenoid that controls the amount of airflow to the engine independant of the throttle plate. Thus increses engine air intake for accessories, power steering, etc so that the load on the engine is at a constant regardless of what position the throttle is at.

That being said this solenoid is small motor that drives a plunger into an air passage on the throttle body. If this solenoid is dirty it can get stuck open (air passage is wide open), closed (stuck in the hole thus no air), or in any position in between...

It is very possible to take this off and clean it with Throttle Body/Carb Cleaner, spray a generous amount on the plunger itself and into the hole/passage where it came out of. I have done this in the past and will solve the problem if in fact this is what it is.

If you choose to try this, dont unplug the battery, undo the IAC and plug connected to it (TRY NOT TO MOVE THE PLUNGER MANUALLY), spray it down real good and in the hole, dry it off if you like and place it back in the hole without moving the plunger. Hook it all back up and you are good to go.

Hope this helps
 

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Hey thanks for all your advice again guys.All of those options seem to make sense.

I think I'll try cleaning the IAC solenoid(plunger) first to see if that helps and will then try cleaning the MAP.Hopefully these two actions will clear this up.If not then I will try the O2 senser.Thankfully it sounds like a reasonable(affordable), possible solution. :)

When I get a chance to try these options I'll write back with any results as it seems many of us are dealing with this problem.

2000 rodeo 1.5" suspension lift
brushgaurd/fog lights/trailer hitch
K&N air filter
window tint
 

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Stryder, it could be any of the suspects already noted. However I think some of those (e.g. MAF) would likely throw a CEL. Therefore let me throw another one in the mix. Dash lights mysteriously coming on is also a sign of an alternator/battery problem. You might want to check your battery and alternator voltages before, during and after one of your rough running episodes. Just remember though if the engine rpms drop due to another reason that could lower the alternator ouput. Point being the alternator could be a cause of the problem or simply the symptom of another problem.

Still though if you have a voltmeter it might be worth a check just to quickly try and rule this out.

Another longshot that is easy to try would be to unhook your battery for 30 min or so to reset the computer. The computer has some ability to learn and adjust to your driving style. Maybe it tried to adjust to the leaking IMGs and is now having trouble adjusting to a correctly running engine??? Like I said a long shot but easy to do. Then again maybe Isuzu didn't use a Microsoft based operating system (i.e. one that responds to starting over). :p
 

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Tomster, thanks for your input.I will try the battery reset thing as I can do that now whereas the cleaning I mentioned I would try will have to wait for a few days(I have some major plumbing problems with my winter water system at my cottage that needs my attention)

The problem that is most prevalent at this stage is not so much the RPM's surging up but dropping down to near zero.At this point the CEL which was lit up goes off and the cruise button to the left of steering wheel and the cruise set indicator on instrument panel come on and vehicle feels like it is gasping for air(?) or fuel(?) and feels like it is about to stall.Many times it does stall other times it hovers at 0 RPM and at this point the lights all over the truck flicker and become dimmer but only for the few seconds that the RPM's are near zero - when the RPM's return to normal level the cruise lights go of and the CEL comes back on(CEL light has been intermittently on and off for months now - noone knows why).At this point the truck will buck forward like a beginner learning to drive a stick for the first time but only because the RPM's had suddenly dropped and then suddenly returned to normal as opposed to surging up high.You can also hear a backfiring in the exhaust when this occurs.

At highway speeds when this occurs(RPM drop) everything seems to shut down as though engine had been shut off but engine is still running - barely.The power steering goes really stiff,brakes are very stiff, even the batt light comes on and then all of a sudden everything will return to normal for about 2 minutes until it happens again.

Another long message but I am not sure if this behavior is indicative of the suggestions that I have already received so I am just trying to be thorough.I believe the advice I was given to be valid I just want to make sure you guys are aware of all the symptoms in case I missed some relevant info on my last post.Thanks again everyone for your input.

The IMG's are new and we checked all hoses(no leaks).I am probably in need of new plugs.Tried products like techron - no change.

2000 rodeo 1.5" lift/brushgaurd/fog lights/hitch
window tint/K&N
 

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I've got a bit of an update on the stalling and bucking rodeo.I'll try to be brief.
Went to have codes read and got these:
P1125 Electric throttle control(dealer called it throttle position sensor)
P1295 Power management mode
P0463 Fuel level sensor(I know how to fix this)
P0102 Airflow signal voltage
P0131 O2 signal low - sensor 1

Got the throttle position sensor from dealer for $120 can.Will install tomorrow and see if it fixes screwy idle and stalling.Hopefully P0102 and P0131 codes will not show up after new sensor goes in.If they do it looks like next best bet is the O2 sensor.

Forgive my automotive ignorance but I'm assuming I should disconnect both battery terminals for safety sake and also to reset the computer so it will respond properly to new sensor. :oops:
 

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Correct, yeah make sure you disconnect the battery. Man, I would have replaced the o2 sensor first. That's cheaper. And thats prety early for a throttle position sensor to be defunct on a 2000 rodeo. Ouch. :shock:
 

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i had a TPS issue on my 99 a few years back, fixed it and it solved the idle issue. but then the tranny blew and i had a whole new ball of wax to deal with. gotta love warranties!!!
 

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Well I installed the new TPS and found a slight improvement.Now when the truck is idling it at least idles at a better RPM level(around 1000 instead of about 600)after it has warmed up.The truck also runs a little smoother now.

I am still experiencing the rapid RPM dropping and occasional stalling.I think Texas Trooper, you were right, perhaps it is the O2 sensor as when I rev the engine you can here a sputtering in the exhaust.It sounds like a slight backfire.The codes say it is O2 sensor #1 - I assume that this means there is more than one.Does anyone know the location for sensor #1 - is it the one by the catalytic converter.I can get an O2 sensor here in Can for $85 plus taxes($100 total).My mechanic suggested the TPS thinking it might correct the O2 readings(that's why I tried TPS first as the cost for TPS and O2 sensor are nearly same price here) -I guess it didn't work like mechanic thought it would.

I have read in other posts that a similar problem may be a timing issue and I am close to needing a timing service.What do you guys think?

I would also like to find out what happened with Delrodeo and his stalling and sputtering rodeo as it's the same year as mine.I am curious to hear what dealer did for him and if it worked?
 
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