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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, yes I did search, and found several different possible causes,, egr, coil packs, spark plugs, vacume leak... Hoping somebody can pinpoint the problem more specifically.

Here goes. I filled up the rodeo a few days ago,, using the cheap gas, and a day later the engine started sputtering , seemed like it wasnt shifting correctly either. It lasted for about a mile, then went away. I did not notice a check engine light, but it may have been lit,, dont know.

Today, with slightly less than 1/4 tank, started the rodeo, got going,, and then suddenly, the engine starts sputtering, loss of power, and this time I did notice the check engine light. It came on every time I gave more throttle, and went off if I let off the gas. I limped the car about a hundred yards to a parking lot, shut her down, waited a minute, and started back up. Now, no problems.

The car did not try to die,, it just lost power and sputtered with throttle application. It even idled for a stop light as I approached the parking lot. So, I took it to autozone, and had them put a code reader on it. It showed no codes. Currently its running normally. I just took it on a 300 mile trip,, after the first incident,, and no problems.

Any help and ideas greatly appreciated. I need to be able to trust this vehicle!

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just recently, the neutral safety switch started freaking out. On a cold morning, I have to jiggle the shifter just a bit to get it out of park. BRAKE dummy light stays on until the engine warms up, then goes off, and no more neutral safety switch issues for the day.

Ever sinse it started getting cold, this vehicle has been having little problems. Could the neutral safety switch issue be related to the check engine light(engine sputter) issue?

Neutral safety switch issue showed up first, then one morning the sputtering,, then this afternoon the check engine light.

I have no idea whats going on. I do plan to do the egr tube clean, and the maf clean,, and put good gas in it with some fuel system cleaner...

Neutral safety switch has to wait a couple weeks, cause its being ordered in...

By the way,,, all this crap started happening right after I posted on these forums that the car ran perfectly, no leaks or issues... Jinx???
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This morning I put half a tank of conoco premium, and a full bottle of heavy duty fuel system cleaner in the tank. Made sure its non alcohol for the cats and 02 sensors.

Immediate difference,, more power, engine revs higher between shifts.

Next I got into the egr tube, but it was pretty clear,, so I cleaned it anyway,, it was no where near clogged.

Next I took a rag and cleaned the throttle butterfly valve. it was mildly dirty, but not bad.

Next, I blew out the air cleaner,, forgot to buy a new one,, it was dirty,, but I have seen worse..

In all, my idle has gone up from around 400 to about 800, but the vehicle is still mabey a bit cold.

Power is back, and so far no mor CEL or sputtering,, but only time will tell if that returns.

Oh, by the way,, While I had the hood open, I sprayed carb cleaner around the intake manifold, gaskets, intake plenum, hose from the maf,, no vacume leaks detected. Engine idled steady the whole time.

Still open to any suggestions.
 

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Sounds like it was the cheap gasoline.

Did you change your fuel filter?

My Rodeo idles at around 800-1000. So im guessing yours is fine.

As for the shifter thing. Mine has been doing that for years.
It started when my key got "stuck" in the ignition.
I just adjusted a cable under the steering wheel until the key was able to come out.
I use to have a hard time getting the truck out of "P". But after I adjusted that cable it made it alot easyer.
If it happens from time to time, I just repeatedly press the release while pushing the shifter forward and a little to the left.
Then I can get out of "P" without any problems.

Your problem might be different, but theres something to look into.
 

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I didn't notice the Y/M/M of your vehicle...but I'd start with a code-pull and see what it was that got the ECM all excited. The codes are still there if you didn't somehow erase them...

Your brake "dummy" light..and there's no such thing as a dummy, is MAYBE from a p-brake cable getting a little cranky and not retracting all the way when you release the parking brake yet the cable isn't letting the lever/pedal/handle fully return to home and keeps the switch activated a while....until the grease warms up enough or the rust bugs get tired and they finally let go. Maybe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am thinking it was bad gas too. As for the pbrake,, I will investigate tomorrow. I figured it had something to do with cold hardening grease. It started when the weather got cold. The center console has been removed a couple times to fix the stuck key problem, so its possible my adjustment there could have something to do with it. I dont mind the shift lever issue, but it would be nice to have the vehicle back to 100%. Thanks for the input!
 

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ofg said:
First off, yes I did search, and found several different possible causes,, egr, coil packs, spark plugs, vacume leak... Hoping somebody can pinpoint the problem more specifically.

Here goes. I filled up the rodeo a few days ago,, using the cheap gas, and a day later the engine started sputtering , seemed like it wasnt shifting correctly either. It lasted for about a mile, then went away. I did not notice a check engine light, but it may have been lit,, dont know.

Today, with slightly less than 1/4 tank, started the rodeo, got going,, and then suddenly, the engine starts sputtering, loss of power, and this time I did notice the check engine light. It came on every time I gave more throttle, and went off if I let off the gas. I limped the car about a hundred yards to a parking lot, shut her down, waited a minute, and started back up. Now, no problems.

The car did not try to die,, it just lost power and sputtered with throttle application. It even idled for a stop light as I approached the parking lot. So, I took it to autozone, and had them put a code reader on it. It showed no codes. Currently its running normally. I just took it on a 300 mile trip,, after the first incident,, and no problems.

Any help and ideas greatly appreciated. I need to be able to trust this vehicle!

Thanks!
A VERY GOOD POSABILITY IS THAT YOU GOT A LOAD OF GAS WITH A GOOD HEALTHY DOSE OF WATER IN IT , IF IT STARTS ACTING UP AGAIN, POUR A QT OF RUBBING ALCOHOL IN THE TANK, 90% ALCOHOL OR BETTER , I HAVE HAD THIS HAPPEN TWICE IN THE LAST TWO MONTHS, RIGHT AFTER A FILL UP BOTH TIMES CHECK ENG LITE WOULD START FLASHING VERY RAPIDLY, FIRST TIME IT DID THIS IT DID NOT SET A CODE , SECOND TIME IT THERE A LEAN BANK ONE LEAN BANK TWO, RICH BANK ONE RICH BANK TWO ALL AT THE SAME TIME ??????????????? , A GOOD DOSE OF ALCOHOL AND IN 5 MIN IT WA S RUNNING OK AGAIN, NOT AS MUCH POWER WITH ALL THE ALCOHOL BUT IT WOULD PULL RIGHT UP TO 6000 RPM WITH NO PROB, AGAIN, JERRY
 
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