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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had been experiencing an oil leak from the front of my engine n took it to my mechanic on Monday. He diagnosed n replaced front main seal, water pump, pulleys, timing belt, etc, buttoned it up, started it up n it runs great n not leaking. However, he noticed that there was a second oil leak from another location, shut er down n put it back up on the rack to remove the stone guard n inspect the leak.

He discovered the leak at the front of the oil pan just over the cross member n started scraping the sludge off of it to get a better look and "chunks" of old JB Weld started falling out of a hole in the oil pan. He continued removing material from the hole until it was clean and a 1" diameter hole was discovered. Impossible to tell how the hole got there with the skid plate on but the previous owner knew about it, repaired it, painted over it and it has been holding well for 4 years (as long as I've owned the car).

My mechanic put a better patch on the hole which will be a good temporary fix but I want to find out what is entailed in removing the oil pan and replacing it entirely.

Can anyone offer up the steps, tips, tools necessary to do this job?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Have been looking via Google for an OEM replacement ... can barely find a decent drawing ... like looking for the holy grail. I think I might be screwed :(
 

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Junkyard time! Plenty of 3.2s to be had.
 

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Its not all that hard of a job depending on if the cross member is straight. If its been bent like mine from off roading getting the bolts out of it can be difficult. Thankfully on these its bolted in and not welded. Once the cross member is removed there is plenty of access for the pan. There is no gasket for the pan btw, only rtv.

I agree with welding a patch or salvage yard. New ones are about $200. Part # 8-97264-032-0 if available.
 

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If you are doing it with the motor in the truck, the front differential will have to be removed and the rack and pinion is in the way a bit. I didn't have to totally remove it but it did need to come loose.
 

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Its not all that hard of a job depending on if the cross member is straight. If its been bent like mine from off roading getting the bolts out of it can be difficult. Thankfully on these its bolted in and not welded. Once the cross member is removed there is plenty of access for the pan. There is no gasket for the pan btw, only rtv.

I agree with welding a patch or salvage yard. New ones are about $200. Part # 8-97264-032-0 if available.
Hi Gizmo,
My oil pan is leaking also so I'm gathering info to try to drop and reseal it. I have a 3" Isuzu lift with the Torsion Bars cranked. With 149,000 miles I never dropped the oil pan before...Everything seems straight, I don't off road so how difficult is the cross member bolts to remove and get into place when finished? Does the wheels expand out to where the cross member bolts won't go back into place? Do I need any special tools or just some elbow grease and patience? It would make sense to uncrank the torsion bars to relieve pressure but can you confirm? Any other tips or tricks would help unless its just a unbolt, seal and rebolt job. Much appreciated! Thanks
 

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