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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My daughter owns a 2000 Honda Passport that will crank over but will not start. We checked for spark and have a good an consistent spark, and when we add fuel to the intake it tries to start.

I have a consistent 40PSI on the MPFI rail. I am thinking ECM/PCM at this point because it is not likely that all 6 injectors decided to get clogged or go bad at the same time given that she had driven it the day before.

Is there something else I should check before I bite the bullet and look for an ECM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I was going to check the crank position sensor but figured I would not have spark and it would not attempt to run with a bad one? Does the spark use a Cam Position sensor instead?

Also, the vehicle throws no codes ...
 

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A bad crank sensor would mean no spark. The cam sensor is just for timing or something and won't effect spark. Check your timing belt. If it's broken, you'll still get spark and fuel pressure but no go-go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Only have about 20K on the new engine so I am pretty sure that timing belt is good. I will check to be sure. Since it runs when you put gas in the intake I am assuming mechanically it is sound.

Does the fuel injection system use the Cam Position Sensor? I would expect this to throw a code if it were bad. Pulses from a cam or crank sensor are easy to look for in an ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Items checked or replaced so far:

Fuel Pressure (checked - 45psi)
Timing Belt (checked)
Compression (checked)
Cam Position sensor (replaced)

I have purchased a noid light kit and will be checking for pulses going to the injectors. As a recap to those joining in:

Car will crank but will not start. If I put fuel in the intake manifold it will run briefly. Car was running and being driven the day prior to it entering this condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Checked a couple of the injector plugs with a noid light and no light. So I guess that means I am still not getting a pulse to the injection system. Oh happy joy ...

:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, you are not being remedial at all, and I welcome any help I get. I have checked all of the fuses (at least 5 times) and the relays too. I swapped relays with circuits that I could test easily to prove that the relays were working.

The one main sensor I have not replaced so far is the crankshaft sensor and I have been assuming that I would not have spark if this sensor were bad, maybe that is a bad assumption on my part.
 

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Rockabye74, did you ever get this fixed? I am having what seems to be the exact same issue with my 92 Trooper (same DOHC 3.2 as yours I believe). I posted about it and received some suggestions from others, but nothing has worked. It has been sitting in my driveway for several months now while I have worked on my sons car and my blazer. I will getting back to work on my Trooper and it would be nice if someone has figured this out already for me.
 

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I. B. Stuck said:
Rockabye74, did you ever get this fixed? I am having what seems to be the exact same issue with my 92 Trooper (same DOHC 3.2 as yours I believe). I posted about it and received some suggestions from others, but nothing has worked. It has been sitting in my driveway for several months now while I have worked on my sons car and my blazer. I will getting back to work on my Trooper and it would be nice if someone has figured this out already for me.
Chech fuel pressure
Check for spark
Check that timing is correct
 

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I figured mine out - an intermittent short between two injector wires. Injector harness would read 0.6 ohms even when it was disconnected from everything. I had to remove all the tape and plastic wrapping to find the bad spot and it didn't even appear to be too bad. Only one wire was rubbed thru and only a couple of broken strands, but one or two of those strands must have poked thru the insulation on the adjoining wire. I separated the wires and taped them up. Trooper starts just fine now.
 
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