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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The cranks were different but everything else still lines up.

The crank from the 2.6 off the auto 2WD truck had a stub that was about an inch longer and thinner than the 2.3 5sp 4WD Trooper.
The 2.3 crank stub stopped inside the rear main and had a small bearing inside the crank.
The 2.6 crank stub extended about an inch past the rear main and was entirely too small to fit the bearing inside it.

I put the clutch and everything on regardless and am hoping for the best currently because the engine is about 2 inches from being bolted in completely....

Please Jerry or someone with the knowledge necessary lend a hand...
 

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Here's what I think you need to do: remove the tranny, remove the AT pilot bearing from the end of the 2.6 crank, install a MT pilot bearing. Check a parts source like rockauto.com, I'll bet since the auto & manual trannies are different manufacturers the pilot bearings have different part numbers- the tranny shaft is probably different.
 

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Dammit boy. When are you going to learn to do your home work before you jump in? Thought you had learned that lesson! :lol: Good luck.
 

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That might just be the spacer used for the auto trans your looking at on the 2.6's crank. Check my cardomain page refering to the auto to 5 speed swap to see if that is indeed what your looking at. If it is then just knock that baby off there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Basically I don't have a pilot bearing....
Now that I look at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Alright so here's the deal.
I identified the problem and this is as good a pic as I can get of the culprit.


This is the 2.6, notice how the crank nearly touches the engine stand?


This is the 2.3, crank is NO WHERE near as long... It's also a different diameter...

Will the added length affect how it mates to my MSG5?
 

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Thats not a 2.6 crank or its in backwards...heres some pictures of mine.


 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So you're telling me I have a 2.6 block with an unidentified crank in it?

Would it change any if I said this engine was out of a 1990 2.6 truck with an automatic transmission and 2WD?
 

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Audacity said:
So you're telling me I have a 2.6 block with an unidentified crank in it?

Would it change any if I said this engine was out of a 1990 2.6 truck with an automatic transmission and 2WD?
PULL THE CENTER HUB OUT OF THE CRANK SHAFT WITH A PULLER , THAT BUSHING IS USED TO LOCATE THE TORQUE CONVERTOR , REMOVE IT THEN YOUR MANUAL FLYWHEEL WILL BOLT ON ,AND BE SURE TO INSTALL THE PILOT BEARING ,YOU DONT HAVE THE WRONG CRANK SHAFT YOU HAVE TOO MANY PARTS , THERE WAS ONE ONLY 2.6 CRANKSHAFT FOR NEARLY 10 YEARS ,
 

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Thats interesting, my auto didn't have that locator bushing, just a spacer. I learn something new everyday.
 

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caveman said:
Thats interesting, my auto didn't have that locator bushing, just a spacer. I learn something new everyday.
YEAH THAT BUSHING IS IN ALL CRANKSHAFTS AND THE ID IS THE SAME AS THE OD WITH IN 1-2 THOUSANDS , IT IS TOO KEEP THE T CONVERTOR FROM GOING INTO AN ELIPTICAL SPIN WHICH WILL TAKE OUT THE FRT PUMP. AND MAY VIBRATE LIKE CRAZY,HOW EVER IF IT WAS MISSING AND THIS PROB DIDNT HAPPEN , IT GOES TO SHOW YOU HOW CLOSE ISUZU MACHINES THOSE PARTS , WHEN YOU BOLT UP THE T/C ON THE ASIN WARNER THERE IS VIRTUALLY NO PLAY IN THE BOLT HOLES THAT HOLD THE T/C TO THE FLYWHEEL, JUST BE PREPARED FOR A FIGHT , THOSE BUSHING ARE NOT THE EASIEST TO GET OUT OF THE END OF THE CRANKS, THEY ARE TIGHT
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Great... Hahah Any idea on the best way to get it out Jerry?
Seems to me like you're about the only one with experience on this booger.

EDIT
Is it necessary for me to remove this bushing in order to run the truck? It doesn't seem to interfere with anything, but I haven't cranked the engine, nor do I plan on it until I get a green light here. Or is this unknown territory?
 

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Do you have a pilot bearing yet? If not can you install one with that bushing in place? If not then I would say you definitely need to remove the tranny & the bushing & install a pilot bearing.
 

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Audacity said:
Great... Hahah Any idea on the best way to get it out Jerry?
Seems to me like you're about the only one with experience on this booger.

EDIT
Is it necessary for me to remove this bushing in order to run the truck? It doesn't seem to interfere with anything, but I haven't cranked the engine, nor do I plan on it until I get a green light here. Or is this unknown territory?
YES FIND A PIECE OF STEEL ROD OF SOME SORT AND THEN TAKE A GREASE GUN AND PUMP THE CAVITY BEHIND THAT BUSHING AS FULL OF GREASE AS YOU, YOU NEED A ROUND ROD THAT WILL FIT VERY TIGHT IN THE BUSHING , NOW TAKE A SMALL HAMMER AND WHILE PUSHING IN THE GREASE SMACK THE END OF THE ROD AND THE BUSHING WILL COME RIGHT OUT ,,ANYTHING ROUND THAT FITS TIGHT WILL WORK, YOU MIGHT EVEN FIND A DEEP WELL SOCKET THAT YOU CAN STICK AN ADAPTER IN AND UES IT THAT WAY , THE TIGHTER IT FITS THE BUSHING THE EASIER IT WILL COME OUT , ,BUT YOU NEED TO GET THE BUSHING OUT IN ORDER TO GET THE PILOT BEARING IN
 

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If that doesn't work the auto parts stores rent pilot bearing pullers for free with deposit. That'll get her out.
 
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