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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone experienced something similiar to this. Driving down the Freeway and the speedometer starts bouncing between 20 and 60 MPH, about a mile later it dies completely. Did not notice till later that the odometer was not working either. Check engine light comes on if RPM goes above 2500 once I start to slow down. Dies on occasion when coming to a stop, usually after driveing in excess of 30 minutes. Fails to idle unless it is shut off and sits for about 30 minutes then the whole process starts again. Any who have experienced this problem before or may have some insight your comments are appreciated
 

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FEAR NOT FOR IT WILL BE A CHEAP EASY REPAIR REMOVE THE SPEED SENSOR AT THE RIGHT REAR OF THE TRANNY IT IS HELD IN BY ONE SMALL BOLT WITH A 10MM HEAD IT IS EASY TO GET TO ONCE THE SENSOR IS REMOVED PULL THE PINION GEAR OUT OF THE SENSOR PUT A NEW ONE IN BOLT IT BACK UP AND OFF YOU GO EXAMINE THE GEAR IT IS WORN COMMON NORMAL WARE NOT A TRANNY ISSUE 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2eye, thanks for the tip, dealer looked at it and said the speedometer gears are stripped, is this the same as the pinion gear? if so he is telling me it will take 2.5 hours to replace that and the idle sensor controller, not sure where the idle sensor controller is located but does it sound like I might be getting the shaft on the time requirement here. Already paid for the parts, really don't want to pay $200 dollars for labor here if it is something I can pick up a chilton manual and do myself. Thanks for your help!
 

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Hmm I've never heard of an Idle Sensor Controller...

2.5 hours seems excessive in my book for the speed sensor gear. :shock:

Not like you have a choice with these guys though... :evil:
 

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Howdy. Yes, an IAC does exist. There is also a component called an idle speed compensator, idle air compensator, idle up controller, etc. There are all sorts of names for components, most are just variations on the same idea however. Manufacturers just like to make it their own I guess.

Anyway, that labor rate seems excessive, but they are probably quoting right from the books. Sometimes the rates are deceiving though as it's my feeling that engineers set the times, not REAL mechanics/technicians.

This job typically is not difficult. Usually you just replace the gear on the end, which should be one bolt, then you need a punch to knock out a split-pin on the shaft. The IAC is easy too, but if you don't know where this is... I would not recommend a Chiltons/Haynes manual for ANY repair. These manuals are just too general in my opionion. Great if you are working on something old (60s, 70s, early 80s vintage).

The long and short of the situation is that no labor rate system is perfect. But, like Las Vegas, the house never looses. My 2 cents.

-Kevin
 

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tHose two things sound harmless enough. How many miles are on this car?

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I am very cautious with any work done to my vehicle and demand the specifics of the work being done down to part names. If they can't explain it, then I might as well have done the work myself.

I hate when mechanics tell me that they need to fix a "system" and it'll cost $X. What exactly needs to be fixed in the system?

For example, I know that you can't "fix" a sensor. These units are sealed and non-servicable nowadays... I insisted on knowing why my dealer wanted to charge me $225 in labor to "fix" an ABS wheel speed sensor. Mind you they initially said that I had an ABS problem and it would cost $225 to get it working OK. The service order was just as vague.

Their answer after waiting on on hold for 45 minutes and two "failed call transfers" that hung up on me was that I had some corrosion on the contacts in the wire harness for the wheel speed sensor and they needed to be cleaned. So $225 + $75 diagnosis fee.

I picked up my car and never came back to that place.

So when they tell me names that sound fishy or refuse to elaborate when I ask questions, I suspect fishy business practices. :(
 

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speedo pinion is not listed in any labor manual I have ever seen and I would never think of charging more than 1hr for diag. and replacement (together) of this part and I have never seen a pin that has to be removed once the sensor is removed you are able to remove the pinion/driven gear from the sensor only by pulling it out of the hole, there is no special trick to get it out I have probably replaced 20 of these things over the last three years it is on the tailend of the tranny lower right side
 

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Howdy. I was speaking generally on my last post to this thread. There are a few different set ups on a speedo. I'm not familiar with the Isuzu set up per se, as I am not an Isuzu tech. However, many times if it's just a gear, you don't need to replace the entire sensor if the sensor itself is still working, just the nylon gear on the end, which if you look carefully will have a roll pin or split pin that you can tap out and replace the gear only hence saving you a few $. If the entire unit has to be replaced, so be it.

Just like the guy replacing his whole idle pulley. Why replace the whole thing when you can just replace the bearing? My 2 cents.

-Kevin
 

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Hope folks do not mind me resurrecting this old topic, but it seems a partial mirror to my problem.

The difference is I did replace the speedo pinion gear as well as Speedo Sensor on my 1995 Rodeo V6 with Isuzu 5 speed manual tranny (not BorgW).

The speedo now operates in an erratic manner and removal of the new pinion gear shows what seems to be damage to the gears after only a few miles.

Obviously this concerns me as it might suggest the mating gear inside the tranny is bad and would require removal of the tranny to fix the internal problem. Scares me to death even thinking about it.

I wonder if the pinion and housing the dealer sold me might have been the incorrect size?

Anybody else experienced something similar? Please let me know some of the details of your experience and what the end result was. Ant suggestions are appreciated.

DD
 

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isuzu95 said:
I replaced mine in about 15 mins. The dealer is doing a number on you.
Erm, were u replying to me? I also replaced it in 15 minutes so that is not the issue. The pinion gear was seized in the bushing housing. I then replaced the bushing/housing and the pinion speedometer gear. Result was very erratic, or no speedometer indication at all. Subsequent removal showed what seemed to be light damage on the new pinion gear. Nearly as if the patterns of the 2 gears were different ... but the isuszu parts guy says there is only one for this tranny.

My question is whether anybody thinks:

1> The matching gear in the tranny might have been damaged due to the seized pinion gear?
2> Is there a possibility that there is a different speedo gear and I got the wrong one?

If #1, can the rear part of the tranny be removed to replace this internal speedo gear, or must the complete transmission be removed? Either is gonna be a real pita.

Looking for some replies from folks with a similar problem, or those that have removed the rear part, or all of the 5 speed isuzu tranny. My Rodeo was mfged in Oct 94 so is the pure 95, not 95.5 (I assume). Tranny fill is on the side and it has the bottom drain-plug. It is not the BW unit. Fire wall tranny code starts with a R, not a M.

I know somebody out there must have had a similar problem and would be beholding if you can take a few minutes and give me your experiences.
 
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