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Hey all, I'm back with a new profile and a new "to me" Rodeo dubbed Lightning. Picked it up yesterday from OfferUp for $1400. Truck has a small amount of body damage primarily in three spots, front and rear driver side quarter panels, and the corner of the rear passenger wheel well. Seller said it has a low fuel pressure issue and from the test drive the truck is hesitating to return RPM to idle. It definitely chokes at times, but I'm not convinced there is a fuel pump issue or that it is the only issue. I'll be testing the fuel pressure myself in a few days. The other main issue with the return to idle hesitation I think is either a MAP sensor or a vacuum leak someplace.

Truck has fairly low mileage for a 1995 model sitting at just under 168K. I'm excited about this one because its manual everything from the factory - 5 speed, 4x4, V6, Manual Windows, locks, and mirrors. Soooo much less wiring!

I've done a 6VD1 engine swap into a 93 Amigo years ago including a manual swap and upgrade to 4x4 and then when it died, swapped the same manual into my old 95 Auto Rodeo and I don't want to do any of that swapping ever again :lol: ...

Current plans include:
  • Fix fuel pressure - Replcaed Fuel Pump, Same PSI result, Look into pressure regulator[/*]
  • Fix return to Idle issue - TBD if indirect issue but currently not stalling so no issue really here[/*]
  • Replace all rear wheel studs - Not needed[/*]
  • Replace all lug nuts - Done[/*]
  • Replace all front ball joints - Done[/*]
  • Replace both CV axles[/*]
  • Replace driveshaft carrier bearing[/*]
  • Determine why turn signal and hazard circuit doesn't work - Intermittent, other issues more important, it works like 90% the time...[/*]
  • Determine why the left front speaker turns on when the dimmer switch is engaged - No stereo currently so whatever...[/*]
  • Determine issue with A/C - Entire A/C system removed except dash components, not needed unless moving back to the desert.[/*]
  • Replace Belts - Installed new PS belt[/*]
  • Replace Wipers - Done[/*]
  • Mount tires onto snowflakes from my previous Rodeo (RIP Jessica Rodeo) - Done[/*]
  • Replace (3) spare tire carrier lugs -Done[/*]
  • Replace all brake pads - Done[/*]
  • Install locking fuel cap - Done[/*]
  • Install CB Radio - Installed antenna, but need the rest of system installed... radio first? Lol[/*]

And thats it for now. Now a picture because thats the only reason anybody comes here haha.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Unfortunately no new photos today. I'll at least have one tomorrow of the truck with the tires mounted onto snowflakes (all four by hand myself :p )

Progress Report:
I know used sensors, especially from a junkyard, are liable to be failing themselves. However, I snagged a MAP, IAC, and VSV from the yard today off an exact model that was only sittiing for 5 days :!: I'll probably be heading back to snag the metal door handles and check if there is an O2 sensor left on it.
So I installed each used item one at a time. 1st the VSV, this only activated the EGR valve so I wasn't expecting a difference, which there wasn't one, but I did button up any vacuum leak associated with it. Speaking of vacuum leaks, the previous owner put screws to plug almost all vacuum ports on the throttle body. Everything there is reconnected now. 2nd was the MAP swap, no major difference here, however I think the truck is trying to return to idle a little quicker now. 3rd on the list was IAC, or Idle Air Control valve, it too did not make much difference but I swear that it was able to keep a more steady idle...when it was able to idle.

Okay now I'm naturally scratching my head again. I should note that fuel pressure was tested at the rail schrader valve at 39psi key on engine off, and 30psi engine on and revving. I ran the truck through startup again and waited for it to start to low idle and I realized the engine would do fine for about 5 seconds then start to have idle issues. I remember from somewhere that the ECU in these models runs on a pre-programmed set of parameters during warmup before it hands over control to live sensor readings. My last sensor that I am aware of that directly effects air and fuel mixture is the oxygen sensor. I promptly unplugged the O2 sensor and BOOM the engine manages a relatively steady 800rpm idle. SOOO bad 02 sensor. It wont be a week until I can get one in my hands... This is to be continued.. But without the O2 sensor plugged in I was able to do a test drive lap around the neighborhood and did not stall once.

During the test drive the truck still did feel sluggish, RPMs do not climb very fast even when clutched and wide open throttle. I have a hunch that the DIY catalytic and muffler job the previous owner installed may be to blame here. Tomorrow I will remove all that crap and do a test drive with open exhaust pipes. Should be nice and loud!

Tomorrow may or may not also kick off the painting I am doing for the entire vehicle. Royal Blue and then Black trimmings. I think it is going to look awesome when done. I'm using low cost single stage paint and separate single stage primer so I'm only expecting 4-6 years of quality appearance but the goal is to have it covered with mud anyways.

Cheers, until the next update zu fam.
-Lightning
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I need to stop being so sure of whats wrong. I still have no clue. My factory manual is arriving via post tomorrow evening and I'll be able to test against definite parameters finally.

There is a lot of really stupid things the previous owner has done. Several ground connections have been left disconnected and several vacuum ports on the intake have been plugged with screws.... Finding all of these things have been a treat. Anyways, I did a cold compression test and got the following readings which makes me more confident as there is no glaring issues with the bottom end. (Cyl-PSI) 1-145, 2-151, 3-152, 4-140, 5-145, 6-140.

I think the spark plugs may be fouled as well. They look new but they're all covered in a very light layer of dark grey.. Could be part of the problem.

I've also started to paint some panels. That project will be piecemeal as I have time between mechanical repairs.
 

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Alright big update! I split this up because I have to many photos probably haha :p

First off, some photos of the painting in process of the truck. Finished photo on the next post!! I just want to make note that painting took me a solid month of solo work between sanding, priming, and painting. I completed the project the space of about a 1.5 car garaged area and kept the vehicle for most of the time in a fenced backyard while I slowly completed panels and installed them back on. I painted the rodeo with a gallon of Rustoleum rusty metal primer and four quarts of Rustoleum gloss royal blue and one quart of Rustoleum glass black. Using a HVLP spray gun from harbor frieght and proper sanding and spraying technique really shows the difference from rattle cans.

Without further ado -->
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And TADA! The final paint photos. I love the color, and being Rustoleum paint, it will be very easy and cheap to do occasional touch ups if needed after camping and off road shenanigans.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now I've had a lot of fun looking at how good it looks but it has been a down right pain in the arse to drive. I've been wrecking my brain for weeks trying to figure out a lack of power issue. I'm studying Electrical Engineering and using bench top tools and the Isuzu Factory manual, I was able to rule out MAP and TPS sensors as they are functioning correctly. O2 sensor is also ruled out because it doesn't change driving whether it is plugged in or not. Spark plugs were all replaced and not to mention tested with an in line spark light a month ago. Air intake is not restricted, air filter looks brands spankin' new.

Now onto red flags. Fuel rail pressure test showed 36psi "after" the two second run spinup with key on engine off as per the Isuzu factory manual. However the out of spec lower limit is 41psi! Okay cool, so I spend a day in the city, dropped the tank, and threw in a brand new Delphi fuel pump, strainer, fuel filter, and replaced all rubbler lines to/from body and tank. --------------- AND a follow up fuel pressure test shows exactly 36psi again. What the heck. Maybe its the pressure regulator, sure, but I haven't looked into that yet.

Now I do another compression test, this time warm. I get the following results: 1/115, 2/115, 3/105, 4/110, 5/118, 6/105, now im testing at 7000 feet so lets adjust for elevation to sea level which is approximately a 1:0.8106 ratio. So true adjusted results are 1/142, 2/142, 3/129, 4/136, 5/145, 6/129. Okay so my compression warm is right at the lower limit of 128psi. Still, its acceptable. Although I am curious why its now lower than my cold compression test I did at 1200 feet last month.

But I notice something when I'm doing the compression test, spark plug #6 looks brand spankin' new. Fudge! Red Flag! So while its snowing on me, I check continuity through the fuel injectors. Note: You can easily do this test from the driver side kick panel (using the ECU connectors). Another interesting note: the 6VD1 engine fuel injectors in MY 94 and MY 95.0 (confirmed) are opened by the ECU two at a time. The ECU has no choice in the matter, per the wiring schematic, Cylinder #1 and #2 injectors are tied in together on one injector channel, and #3 with #4, and #5 with #6 too. So when checking resistance via the wire harness, the ohm reading per channel should be 6.1 ohm. This is because each injector has a resistance of 12.2 nominal and they are wired in parallel which splits the resistance by a factor of two. Injector channel 1/2 check out at 7 ohm, and 3/4 also at 7 ohm, but 5/6 channel was at 12.2 ohm indicating a problem, and thus confirming what I discovered from the spark plug diagnosis. 12.2 ohm though is interesting because that is showing one injector, and a second with open loop (infinity resistance) so either it absolutely grenaded, or it somehow got unplugged... thats my next diagnosis when the snow stops and it warms up.

Thanks for letting me ramble, if your still here, say hi!
 

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Oh I forgot to note some other routine repairs:

- Brakes pads all around installed.
- All four ball joints replaced, not happy with the quality and fit of the ball joints I bought, will not repeat purchase.
- Leaf Spring bracket bushings replaced, and adjusted an inch down.
- Torsion springs adjusted down, previous owner had them cranked so hard that there was zero upper movement. I dropped the vehicle 8 inches off a jack, and the a-arms didn't even budge... Awful.
- Oh and I replaced the front auto hubs with brand new AISIN manual hubs. Oh they looks so good, and are so smooth.
- And since I don't have cruise control, I have a perfect spot to build a platform and mount an ARB compressor using stock body mounting holes! See photo.

Lets see if I have any photos:
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Paint looks great! You did all that in your driveway? edit: looked again and I can see it was in garage/back yard. Amazing job on this.

Where did you get those ball joints so I can avoid too. Great idea on the compressor mount. Looking forward to seeing it comes together.

When did you pick this Rodeo up? I'm always scouring CL here in the valley and don't recall seeing your truck.

Have you watched these? May not be related to your fuel pressure problem, but he does a ton of methodical troubleshooting: https://www.youtube.com/c/1966human/search?query=isuzu
 

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Thanks szac!

I already need a few touch up on the paint, the snowboard took a bite at it today while loading up at Snowbowl... The compressor mount and really any other upgrades will have to wait until spring and all this snow melts. :D

The ball joints were ordered from RockAuto. Mevotech top (MK9452) and bottom (MK9465). I broke an upper bolt during install, pretty darn easily. Then the bottoms are extremely poor fit, most notable is the grease valve that come into full contact with the CV axles. I broke them off and I'm going to just let the lowers rot and replaced in a season or two. Less notable was the fact the lowers shell that holds the ball that pivots is to large for the cutout on the lower arm. I forced mine in by spending extra time just cranking the bolts but its just really bad. I will not be a repeat Mevotech customer.

The truck was only listed through OfferUp (actually twice) in November. The listing that I bought from and then I later also found an old listing from a few months earlier in Prescott. Craigs won't be too fruitful for these old rigs since it costs $5/month to list vehicles on Craigs now. Offerup on the other hand is free, so a lot of these rigs get listed there instead.

I'll have to take a look at the videos. Looks like he has the Holden Rodeo which is actually the pickup? I'm slammed at school so it might be a bit. The truck is manageable on the road so I'm just going to push it and see if anything breaks :lol:

Have a good day,
Andrew

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Okay some more frustrating diagnostics: The engine still has a pain in the *** lack of power which becomes very apparent at high altitude.

Recently I dropped the fuel tank and installed a new Delphi fuel pump, strainer, fuel filter, and the fuel tank feed, return, evap, and filler neck hoses. The outcome?? The exact same out of spec fuel pressure at rail that the old pump had shown... The following week I also replaced the *** hat exhaust the previous owner installed catalytic back with a stock muffler and tailpipe I was lucky enough to find intact at a local yard due to an oversight by their mechanics for $20. All I had to do was weld a correct flange onto the brand new catalytic I'm retaining from the previous owner's install. This repair was very important as the previous owner's muffler "upgrade" was not only annoying, it was too close to the floor board and melted all the undercoating off, burned the paint on the inside floorboard, and unfortunately scorched my rear seat back that had been folded down on a two hour drive.

Going forward: First I'm going to drop the tank again and check resistance or voltage drop through the pump leads and the external tank connector. I verified that from relay to tank harness connector that I have a total voltage drop of 0.9v (-0.8v on positive lead and -0.1v on ground lead). Everything that I can find says that a maximum of one volt combined voltage drop shouldn't affect drive-ability. However I'm not convinced that there is not significant voltage loss between the tank connector and the new fuel pump.

Going forward #2: I'll be pulling the intake plenum, fuel rail, and injectors off soon. I have injector o-rings, plenum gasket, and a fuel pressure regulator currently in transit to me now for replacement. I intend to clean the injectors and verify their functionality.

Some diagnostic test results to note all together:
== Fuel pump voltage drop with charged battery, engine running, alternator charging circuit operational (to the tank side of the tank wire harness connector): -0.8v positive, -0.1v negative, -0.9 combined [ [ [ just within spec for common internet troubleshooting of an upper limit at -1.0v loss. ] ] ]
== Fuel rail pressure while pump running on battery: ~40psi
== Fuel rail pressure after priming on battery, pump stopped: ~35-38psi [ [ [ out of spec per 1994 UC workshop manual - lower limit 41psi ] ] ]
== Fuel rail pressure while pump running on battery and return line restricted: ~55psi [ [ [ out of spec per 1994 UC workshop manual - lower limit 65psi ] ] ]

I think it is safe to state I have a fuel delivery issue, frankly the pump should supply over 90psi max so that is why I'm dropping the tank to verify 100% whether or not there is a voltage on the tank side harness. If not, well there is a lifetime warranty on that Delphi pump from Autozone and I'll take a chance on pump #3.

---------------
In other, lighter news, I spent three days and have scanned every single page of the 1994 UC (Rodeo) workshop manual and the accompanying electrical troubleshooting manual into PDF. Its nice to have digital copy on my phone or tablet in the garage, they're much lighter and smaller than the books. Plus trail side repairs should be easier since I keep a copy on my cell at all times. They're almost 1.5GB combined! :twisted:

If your still reading, thanks for letting me rant with you. Any ideas???? 8)
 

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Lightning said:
In other, lighter news, I spent three days and have scanned every single page of the 1994 UC (Rodeo) workshop manual and the accompanying electrical troubleshooting manual into PDF. Its nice to have digital copy on my phone or tablet in the garage, they're much lighter and smaller than the books. Plus trail side repairs should be easier since I keep a copy on my cell at all times. They're almost 1.5GB combined! :twisted:
Do you have a book scanner? I just posted about wanting and maybe making one earlier today!

I wish I could be of help on the fuel pressure issues, but I know nothing. The snow looks incredible! Need to get up there with my sons for snowboarding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
szac said:
Do you have a book scanner? I just posted about wanting and maybe making one earlier today!
Haha what a coincidence! I used a book scanner at the university for the electrical troubleshooting book but the binding was so old that it broke apart every dozen pages or so. Since that happened, I decided not to deal with that on the 1700+ workshop manual book and I literally unbound every single page and ran them through a document feeder. The pages are a bit misaligned but all the data is there and readable. I still have the books but without the bindings they're all loose leaf now, lol. Going to look at getting them three hole punched and thrown in a big ring binder.

A good thing to note is that in my experience in Phoenix all the local community colleges have pretty fast double page book scanners direct to PDF on a USB. I have never had to have a student account to use them, just walk in, scan, walk out of the libraries. Maybe take a drive over and check them out if you want something scanned fast.

szac said:
I wish I could be of help on the fuel pressure issues, but I know nothing. The snow looks incredible! Need to get up there with my sons for snowboarding.
No worries! I hope you get a chance to enjoy the snow!

-Andy
 

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BoiseTrooper said:
Your Rodeo is looking awesome! Really nice!
Thank you!

Annnnnd now for a big update dump!
Okay looks like my last update was after the first drop of the fuel tank. I dropped it again and used the old pump to do voltage drop tests from battery to the actual leads on the pump itself.. Result? almost a 2v loss at the pump. The would conclude there is over a 1v loss just between the pump and the exterior tank connector. So I rewired the pump from the tank harness connector through the bulkhead and directly to the pump. Bingo! Less than 0.5v loss at pump from battery afterwards and the fuel pressure builds up properly when the return hose is restricted, it went 70psi plus almost immediately before I let go of the pliers on the return hose.

Here is some photos from the rewiring.
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Next I did a post engine intake/fuel rail removal cold compression test, results: Cyl1-145psi, 2-150, 3-145, 4-145, 5-148, 6-143. I am at approx 1200 feet so please be aware the numbers are a bit lower than they would be at sea level.

Next up was a removal and clean of the fuel injectors. I had to remove the intake, throttle body, plenum, fuel rail, and lastly the injectors. Couple red flags on the previous owner, none of the injectors had their rail retainer clip, and only two injectors had their wire harness retaining clip. Then come to find out, two injectors did not even match the motor!!! Ugh... okay then after a test of each injector, one was completely plugged and two others had terrible spray patterns and also wouldn't close 100%.... okay so 1 good injector, I need to replace 5!

Luckily a V6 94 passport was dropped at the local yard the next day! I was probably the second person to touch the truck in the yard. (The first being whoever jacked the stereo, lol). I took all the injectors and all the retaining clips. Got home and performed a test on the salvaged injectors and only one had a bad spray pattern!! Whew that was lucky! I installed the 5 salvaged injectors, buttoned everything up, and wouldn't you have guessed it, the dang truck is a rockstar now.

It finally drives nice and strong! The payoff of three month is nice and sweet, this truck will be enjoyed for a very long time!

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Post repair cold compression test results: Cyl1-144psi, 2-145, 3-145, 4-140, 5-142, 6-136.
 

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The following is an example of how I keep track of bolts and nuts when taking a bunch of things apart. It provides location detail for each bit of hardware and also gives me an ordered list of how to put everything back together by following the list backwards. It also help to prevent forgetting things altogether during reassembly.

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While I was at the junkyard I noticed that the Passport I pulled the injectors off of had a good set of AC components. The previous owner put in an aftermarket AC that was poorly fitted and I had to remove it completely. So I decided to pull the complete system, plus a headlight, marker light, and a very clean snowflake wheel. I also found an original Isuzu cassette deck that I plan to install someday to have a more complete original build finishing look.

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I installed the whole AC system myself, replaced all joints with new O-rings, and charged up the system with r134a using my set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump. The system help pressure and has been providing nice cold air for almost a week now! The truck is so much nicer to drive now. Its been getting into the mid 80s recently in Phoenix. This summer will be a good test of my mechanic skills. So far I've done every spec of work on this truck myself and AC repair was a big new step for me, and I'm very proud it was successful.

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When I was removing panels for paint in December, one of the bumper bracket bolts snapped in a real terrible spot on the chassis. This bolt is behind the body panel plane and it is impossible to get any kind of bit in there to drill out or extract. Today I took the time and cut a small piece of 3/8 inch mild steel plate and tack welded it to the bolt stud that was left in the frame.

After a few tries I had a viable piece of metal I could grab with vice grips and get it backed out. After I finally got the broken bolt out, YAY, I retapped the hold, and installed the bumper brackets with new hardware.

This was a very important repair for me since the driver side bumper bracket is integral to the correct mounting of the hitch receiver. Towing was one of the main considerations for moving back into a Rodeo from my 2004 Subaru Forester. Oh, and obviously being able to off road of coarse. Anyway, now that the bracket is mounted the hitch has all the mounting bolts installed again so I am free to pull the rated 4500#s. Hallelujah.

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TIME TO TOW!! :twisted:
 

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I mentioned making a custom battery strap to another user here on the planet and I wanted to include it here on the build page too. The photos are from my 93 Amigo build many years ago but I intend to recreate the battery strap for my current Rodeo build very soon. Battery straps are important for off road so you do not have a 50 pound block flying around the engine bay while your bouncing through the forest or damaging your hood if you hit a serious rut at speed. This version of a battery strap is very adjustable to allow any battery to be compatible or to be brought into a new build if the current it ever decommissioned.

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Lightning said:
The following is an example of how I keep track of bolts and nuts when taking a bunch of things apart. It provides location detail for each bit of hardware and also gives me an ordered list of how to put everything back together by following the list backwards. It also help to prevent forgetting things altogether during reassembly.

View attachment 3

While I was at the junkyard I noticed that the Passport I pulled the injectors off of had a good set of AC components. The previous owner put in an aftermarket AC that was poorly fitted and I had to remove it completely. So I decided to pull the complete system, plus a headlight, marker light, and a very clean snowflake wheel. I also found an original Isuzu cassette deck that I plan to install someday to have a more complete original build finishing look.

View attachment 2
View attachment 1

I installed the whole AC system myself, replaced all joints with new O-rings, and charged up the system with r134a using my set of manifold gauges and a vacuum pump. The system help pressure and has been providing nice cold air for almost a week now! The truck is so much nicer to drive now. Its been getting into the mid 80s recently in Phoenix. This summer will be a good test of my mechanic skills. So far I've done every spec of work on this truck myself and AC repair was a big new step for me, and I'm very proud it was successful.

Awesome update! I'm after a period correct tape deck as well. Great score with that spare snowflake. Are you down here in the valley now? I have a new AC hose to install as the current one is bent to where the windshield washer fluid reservoir used to be. Would you be willing to show me ropes on recharging the system? I want windshield washing ability back.

I'll have to try that method to keep track of bolts. Clever!
 

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Lightning said:
Next I did a post engine intake/fuel rail removal cold compression test, results: Cyl1-145psi, 2-150, 3-145, 4-145, 5-148, 6-143. I am at approx 1200 feet so please be aware the numbers are a bit lower than they would be at sea level.

Next up was a removal and clean of the fuel injectors. I had to remove the intake, throttle body, plenum, fuel rail, and lastly the injectors. Couple red flags on the previous owner, none of the injectors had their rail retainer clip, and only two injectors had their wire harness retaining clip. Then come to find out, two injectors did not even match the motor!!! Ugh... okay then after a test of each injector, one was completely plugged and two others had terrible spray patterns and also wouldn't close 100%.... okay so 1 good injector, I need to replace 5!

Luckily a V6 94 passport was dropped at the local yard the next day! I was probably the second person to touch the truck in the yard. (The first being whoever jacked the stereo, lol). I took all the injectors and all the retaining clips. Got home and performed a test on the salvaged injectors and only one had a bad spray pattern!! Whew that was lucky! I installed the 5 salvaged injectors, buttoned everything up, and wouldn't you have guessed it, the dang truck is a rockstar now.

It finally drives nice and strong! The payoff of three month is nice and sweet, this truck will be enjoyed for a very long time!


Post repair cold compression test results: Cyl1-144psi, 2-145, 3-145, 4-140, 5-142, 6-136.
DUDE! this is awesome. Congrats on a strong runner again! That injector test setup is portable enough to bring to the yard too. Nice one!
 
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