Hello my fellow isuzu owning Friends! 
I actually own a Honda Passport (aka Rodeo), with an Isuzu 2.6L 4ZE1 engine. Anyway, I had a bad problem a couple of months ago with the truck "spuddering" when I was driving it. It would spudder when I accelerated the gas pedal and when I shifted gears (5 speed manual). I replaced the ECM with a used one from a junk yard because the dealership said it was bad (boy are they a buncha idiots!!!) Needless to say, that didn't solve my problem one bit and it kept spuddering. I took it to the dealership again and told them they were WRONG about the ECM and to diagnose it right this time. They swore it was the fuel injectors this time so I went to Napa and bought the injectors myself refurbished for 365 bucks and put those bad boys on to no avail. My problem was getting worse and nothing was helping. Eventually it started running really badly with a terrible idle and it would even cut out while i was driving it and cut out while idleing, i even noticed a little bit of grey smoke out of the tailpipe when i started it. I did a compression gauge check to find out that I was getting low compression in the 4th cylinder. It was only firing at about 100psi and the rest were at 150psi solid. I figured it was a blown headgasket so I got ready to do some major work. I took the engine apart down to the block. I noticed that the distributor was facing the #4 electrode in my distributor cap. I got the cylinder head checked for cracks and resurfaced. I also got a new complete head gasket set so that I would have all new gaskets along with new timing belt and accsessory belts, exhaust manifold(due to bad blistering) an egr pipe( had to cut the old one because the bolt on the manifold stripped). So when I put it all back together I put the timing belt on with the engine at tdc and made sure the teeth on the camshaft pulley didn't move. I put the distributor in facing the #1 electrode. After the valves were adjusted. I put the rest of the engine together and crossed my fingers. I went to turn the engine over and it cranks great but doesn't turn over. My problem is no spark at the spark plugs. I checked the ignition coil and made sure I had power to it and power was okay. I checked the continuity and thought it was bad so I got a new ignition coil yesterday and hoping that would fix the spark problem, but it DIDN'T! I don't even get a spark when I take a wire straight from the coil and I hold it up to the engine block and crank it over. No arch at all.( sometimes a little shock when the key is taken out of the ignition?) Next I took the distributor out and tested the 4 prongs on the backside of it where the harness fits on. The top prong is ground and i checked it and it was grounded good. The second prong is positive and it had power to it okay. the 3 and 4 prongs were supposed to go to the ignition module. ( thats what it says in my Haynes) I tried testing the continuity on those two prongs and got no reading with the 2K resistance setting on my multimeter. Should I have a resistance reading on these? I am at my whits end with this freakin truck.
Problem: No spark. Engine cranks but no spark at coil or off distributor wires. New Ignition coil and no blown fuses. Should the distributor still give off spark even if it is way off (90 degrees, 180 degrees, or any other degree) or does it have to be on pretty precisley to spark?
Is there any way to test the distributor, because I have heard of people having this problem, and they said the timing is way off on this particular engine? ANy help on this would be greatly appreciated. I have a really good digital camera so I can take pics of anything if necessary.
Thank YOu,
cHoP
I actually own a Honda Passport (aka Rodeo), with an Isuzu 2.6L 4ZE1 engine. Anyway, I had a bad problem a couple of months ago with the truck "spuddering" when I was driving it. It would spudder when I accelerated the gas pedal and when I shifted gears (5 speed manual). I replaced the ECM with a used one from a junk yard because the dealership said it was bad (boy are they a buncha idiots!!!) Needless to say, that didn't solve my problem one bit and it kept spuddering. I took it to the dealership again and told them they were WRONG about the ECM and to diagnose it right this time. They swore it was the fuel injectors this time so I went to Napa and bought the injectors myself refurbished for 365 bucks and put those bad boys on to no avail. My problem was getting worse and nothing was helping. Eventually it started running really badly with a terrible idle and it would even cut out while i was driving it and cut out while idleing, i even noticed a little bit of grey smoke out of the tailpipe when i started it. I did a compression gauge check to find out that I was getting low compression in the 4th cylinder. It was only firing at about 100psi and the rest were at 150psi solid. I figured it was a blown headgasket so I got ready to do some major work. I took the engine apart down to the block. I noticed that the distributor was facing the #4 electrode in my distributor cap. I got the cylinder head checked for cracks and resurfaced. I also got a new complete head gasket set so that I would have all new gaskets along with new timing belt and accsessory belts, exhaust manifold(due to bad blistering) an egr pipe( had to cut the old one because the bolt on the manifold stripped). So when I put it all back together I put the timing belt on with the engine at tdc and made sure the teeth on the camshaft pulley didn't move. I put the distributor in facing the #1 electrode. After the valves were adjusted. I put the rest of the engine together and crossed my fingers. I went to turn the engine over and it cranks great but doesn't turn over. My problem is no spark at the spark plugs. I checked the ignition coil and made sure I had power to it and power was okay. I checked the continuity and thought it was bad so I got a new ignition coil yesterday and hoping that would fix the spark problem, but it DIDN'T! I don't even get a spark when I take a wire straight from the coil and I hold it up to the engine block and crank it over. No arch at all.( sometimes a little shock when the key is taken out of the ignition?) Next I took the distributor out and tested the 4 prongs on the backside of it where the harness fits on. The top prong is ground and i checked it and it was grounded good. The second prong is positive and it had power to it okay. the 3 and 4 prongs were supposed to go to the ignition module. ( thats what it says in my Haynes) I tried testing the continuity on those two prongs and got no reading with the 2K resistance setting on my multimeter. Should I have a resistance reading on these? I am at my whits end with this freakin truck.
Problem: No spark. Engine cranks but no spark at coil or off distributor wires. New Ignition coil and no blown fuses. Should the distributor still give off spark even if it is way off (90 degrees, 180 degrees, or any other degree) or does it have to be on pretty precisley to spark?
Is there any way to test the distributor, because I have heard of people having this problem, and they said the timing is way off on this particular engine? ANy help on this would be greatly appreciated. I have a really good digital camera so I can take pics of anything if necessary.
Thank YOu,
cHoP
