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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked around for a how to, but didn't find one. Any tips or heads up that I can use please feel free to post them.

Once I am done with mine I will post a how to with pics.

Thanks!
 

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not sure what motor you have but the best bet is to spend $20 on a chilton manual. I changed the water pump, timing belt, and one of the tensioner pulleys all at once on my sohc 3.2 in several hours with the book. All the pictures and instructions were correct and made the job almost to easy. Easiest timing belt I have ever changed. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am using a Haynes manual, pretty good so far. Now, what did you use to keep the cranckshaft pulley from turning? Also did you use a breaker bar?

I am stuck at removing the cranckshaft pulley's bolt. I am trying to fugure out a way to keep it from turning.

I have a 1994 Rodeo with the 3.2L V6.

Thanks for yor reply

:D
 

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I tried several ways of immobilizing the crank pulley and they all failed. I ended up borrowing an impact wrench rated at 650 pounds of torque. I barely got the bolt out with the impact wrench.

As the thing turns it gets tighter and tighter. I would be surprised if you get it out by hand.

My suggestions:

1). Remove the radiator and use an impact wrench.

2). Rig something to hold a socket on the bolt and bump the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok I got a compressor with a max psi of 120 and an impact wrench. The bolt is not coming off. How much PSI do I need to get this bolt loose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
oK the bolt came off after a few minutes of pounding it with an impact wrench. Now since I am replecing a good belt, the timimng hasn't been lost. Can I just replace the belt without aligning the sprocket marks? Just slip the old one out and the new one in?
 

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I would wait for others to confirm what I am saying but I think you should still align everything. How do you know it wasn't slightly off before?

I had never changed a timing belt before my 96 Rodeo and experienced the same struggles as what you have been describing. The way I see it if you go to all this trouble, do everything right.

It's a little tricky getting everything lined up even using the marks. Once you try to tension it things tend to move a bit. You would need to be lucky or at least have more skill than me to just eyeball it.

1). When you change the timing belt line up all the timing marks. Be careful on the CAM because on mine there were two marks and I nearly lined up the wrong one.

2). Change the tensioner, they loosen up and the belt does not stay as tight as it should. I would get the dealer part.

3). Inspect all the pulleys and verify they spin easily and are not damaged. I had a bad bearing in one of mine. ($20.00 rpl part).

4). Do the water pump while you are at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK so I replaced the timing belt, water pump and power steering pump (was leaking )

A few tips, to remove the cranckshaft pulley I had to use an impact wrench. I also needed a breaker bar for the pivot bolt of the power steering pump, hard to acces this bolt.

I had no problem aligning up the marks with the belt, the cam pulleys are clearly marked and the backplates have a dot the you can't miss. And I got lucky, my lines didn't move, not even after I released the tensioner.

Now the cranckshaft pulley has a notch, kinda like a "U" mark that is used to lining the cranckshaft timing sprocket, the mark for the belt is on the opposite side. Is a line marked on it.

Thanks for all the input, I did it with Haynes manual, and this is the second time that I work on a timing belt. So if you are mechanically inclined and can follow a manual, you can do it yourself. Just have the right tools. To torque some of the bolts I borowed a torque wrench from Autozone.

Thanks
 
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