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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So hey guys, i ended up buying the 1994 Red Isuzu Trooper for 2400$ 151k miles.

Now i got some questions.

1. How do i take apart the dash to get to the CD player to start checking to see why only 1 speaker/2 tweeters are working (already checked the settings on the CD player).

2. There are some things wrong with it, i took it to the shop and decided to buy it anyways hopefully that wasnt a mistake, but the inside and how it drove was soooo nice.

Issues (how easy/hard they are to do, i know you cant see it but just a jist of it, also maybe name off some issues these normally have)
1. Leaking line for the Radiator cooler
2. PS Pump line leaking
3. Cant remember the other one, will add that tomorrow.

last thing.
I took it 4x4ing right after i purchased it to see if there was anything wrong, well when im just driving normal it doesnt act weird at all in 4x4.

I took it up a Butte we have close by (not to steep, took the pup there all the time easily), and when in 4x4 it will click/clunk from what sounds like the driver side, now is this a bad auto hub or is it maybe a broken axle on the inside?
 

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on the 4x4 issue, it can be either. Pop the hub off and look for a snap ring on the very end of the CV. If it's missing, that's the culprit. Be sure to check the splines on the end of the CV as well. If the splines are ground off, you'll have to either go with manual hubs (provided the second snap ring groove is usable) or replace the CV itself. If that looks good, If the hub/cv splines look good, odds are it's the CV. You should inspect it for torn boots and excessive play but generally clunking sounds in 4x4 from that area are either the hub or the CV. If it's the CV, you can just replace the halfshaft. LOT simpler!
 

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I have seen a good many rotted speaker cushions in the 92-95 model years, check them first 'for taking out the dash. If they are good, the bezel around the center column of slots (radio, vent, ash tray, cubby) also goes around the drivers instrument cluster. Follow the edges & look for screws from the bottom up. IIRC there are four around the drivers cluster, two upper lip & two lower, then from each side goethe center column. There should be a ground wire on a side screw (stock radio) that must go back directly on the radio, not on the mount bracket. I tried the bracket & got horrible ignition noise on my speakers. So whatever radio you have, use the appointed ground screw not just a mount screw.

The leaking hose is just a matter of placing a catch pan under a COLD engine & removing hose clamps, install new hose & new clamps (they are cheap don't let an old clamp ruin a good motor, buy new ones) & refill coolant system.

Power steering leak, is this the high pressure line going to the great box, or the soft low pressure line coming back to the pump?

Popping/clicking/clunking when in 4x4 & articulating suspension, but not on smooth pavement making turns? The C-clip is likely worn out & fell off. I had to replace mine also. Buy honest 18.7mm snap rings! They are soooo much easier to put back on. If they are quiet during smooth on road travel the CV knuckles are likely intact, or they would be clicking from any turn you make under 4x4 power. The clunk you hear is likely to be the half shaft sliding in/out of the hub assembly. Spinning behind the hub in the spindle is how the end gets chef, don't use 4x4 again until you have the snap rings in there. I would do both at once, if one is loose or popped off the other isn't any better.

~psguardian
 

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Woo-hoo! 2nd Gen FTW! Kidding, of course, I love 1st gens too. Sorry it isn't the 5-speed you were lookingfor.

Like Sassee said, those auto hubs are prone to popping out. It happened on my Rodeo in winter (when my windows were closed and I didn't here the slight noise it made) and didn't discover it until a couple months later. The splines got ground off the axle.

The good news is, a new CV is generally the worst case scenario. I would also look into getting manual hubs. Factory replacements generally run $50 - $100 depending on condition. Aftermarkets like Superwinch generally a little cheaper, especially used.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok thanks =D

Well found out it was a wiring issue (replaced both front speakers anyways), in the door jams from being opened and closed so often. The very rear speaker isnt working, so ill have to trace wires.

Taking it to the shop tomorrow to check pricing on how much so of this will cost. Ill prob keep the auto locking hubs has ive always wanted it ha, unless i start having alot of issues then i will prob do it.

Some odd issues i have about it (ill post pictures of the truck later though).

1. The drive side rear door doesnt unlock full so it will not open unless i pull hard up on the lock button, any idea? somethings jammed i would assume.
2. Easyest way to get the door panels off? i was having a hard time without damaging them, so i just gave up.

ill have some other stuff but for now im at work and just need to post fast. thanks =D
 

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if you have all the screws out of the door panels (and speakers), you start at the bottom of the door panel and just pull outward, the snaps will come off, then lift the panel upward a little if the window seal is holding the top in... they sell the clips at auto parts stores cheap if you bust any...

my windows all have new plastic regulator clips and i had to do some work on my drivers door to keep the window from hitting the lock rod when it was all the way down (i adjusted the regulator up about 1/8" is all) and my drivers rear wasnt unlocking, i just had to take it apart to find the rod fell off of the power lock actuator...if you cant get it right, find a local guy who can: somone on here or a stereo or autobody shop wll know exactly how to do it...

good luck !!!
 
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