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The "ribbed thing" IS your ignition "driver" module and is important (probably the source of your codes. Dennis
 

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1993 Rodeo 2WD 4ZE1/T5 CA Spec - 2016 RAM1500 Pentastar (22mpg) - 1986 RockZuk on Toyota Axles
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
The "ribbed thing" IS your ignition "driver" module and is important (probably the source of your codes. Dennis
Awesome, thanks for the motivation to pull it back off and rewire it. I knew it was important, wasn't sure about potentially 4 seperate codes important. Not starting due to no spark it would appear so pretty likely has to do with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Looks like another old Isuzu 2.6 is back on the road.

There was a video, but it's too big even at 12 seconds.

Trying to decide if I should mess with distributor timing or idle screw, but it runs better than it ever has even on the test drive so I have no concept of what it should ideally sound like... but it runs so good I don't feel like paying for a light and tach haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Hey does this mean I broke the timing belt tensioner doing the water pump? It started dripping upon deleting the smog pump.
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Rim Bicycle part
 

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Could (note COULD) be your crank timing sprocket is on backwards. Could be something wrong with idler pulley. You're going to have to pull the rest of the cover. Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
I just got the lower timing cover off, looks like I dropped a nut in there
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Got it back together with a new water pump, timing chain, and tensioner, wouldn't start, DTC 41 which is Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring harnesses and grounds tightened them up and the code went away but it still won't start. Cranking it sounds just like it does when there's no spark, but I'm getting a spark at all 4 plugs. I'm guessing it either ran out of gas (fixed a break in the fuel sender harness but haven't actually been able to test it as functional with the truck running yet) or I rotated the cam enough for the distributor cap to advance getting the new timing chain on and it's sparking at the wrong time. Any other ideas?
 

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If the timing marks are lined up (crank and cam), the distributor should be set (unless you had removed it) Dennis
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
OK. I wasn't sure the dizzy doesn't have some mechanism to keep it from spinning backwards with the cam. I made sure the timing chain went on the right tooth by using a silver sharpie on the cog right at the timing mark on the cam and the crank (my crank cog has a second timing mark directly on the bottom) so then I lined the old belt up to the new one and used the metallic sharpie to color in the teeth the same distance apart and got both teeth back in the same slot on the cogs that also had silver markings on them. But it slipped off several times both directions before I got it on there. I probably just really did fix the gas gauge and it's legitimately out of gas from so many hours idling it in the front yard chasing down pinhole coolant leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Between the firewall and the intake and the shape of the distributor cap putting any kind of screwdriver handle in the way I wasn't looking forward to doing that again
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
On my Suzuki I can just push the whole truck forward a foot or two then push it back and the engine will advance when I push it forward but when pushing it backwards it doesn't turn the engine backwards, don't really understand by what mechanism that works on the Suzuki 1.6 but not an Isuzu 2.6. For all I know it does if it's in gear but it's a bear to move this much steel across gravel by myself even in neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
To be clear, I've never pulled off the whole distributor off the head as it didn't look bad aside from the cap and rotor, just changed those and new wires. I read enough posts about changing the timing belt to know if the new belt was on with the same number of teeth apart to the same spaces in the cogs with the crank and cam both hitting TDC at the same time after manually turning the motor, that the distributor should stay in time. I just turned the cam cog maybe an inch or less and then corrected it before attempting to get the belt on again, and it happened several times. But if the distributor and it's rotor turn with the cam in both directions no way the timing wound up off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Would the oil pressure sender cause a crank/no start condition without a CEL? Looks like one of the wires to the harness I made to replace the top piece of it that used to have the two wires hanging off might've failed at the terminal. I guess those solder filled wiring terminals inside a piece of shrink aren't as convenient as they look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
If the timing marks are lined up (crank and cam), the distributor should be set (unless you had removed it) Dennis
After a good night's sleep I looked at it with fresh eyes and the crank sprocket is significantly clockwise of the 0° mark on the lower timing cover. First attempt after putting it back together I got ignition but it immediately sputtered our, must've jumped a tooth or two once the torque of the engine was behind the rotation. I'm gonna try to correct it in place but anticipate a long night of tearing it down yet again 🤦
 
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