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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have developed an intermittent ignition problem.

Long suffering and much beloved Wife had a no start a couple of weeks ago. Went out a few hours later when it dried up and it started fine and ran well until New Years Eve.

Had a really rough start on the evening of the 31st - got it moving with a couple of long revs - it sputtered a couple of times then worked OK for a short hop, then restarted fine on the way home. Made another long trip and back no problem next morning.

This morning - no start .. This afternoon - also no start .. Checked wires and noticed they were a little loose on the distributor, so remounted and checked rotor/cap. looked dirty so cleaned it up with a file and re-clipped .. Still no start .. Had afore mentioned long suffering and much beloved come back out and spin the engine while I checked for spark and coil connections ..

Got spark from Coil to wire (thick and orange) ..

Got spark at rotor (less thick - still orange) ..

No sparks on any plug (orange or otherwise) ..

Was expecting a good jolt through my gloves and a thick blue spark from coil - assuming weakness there.

Any insights would be greatly appreciated

Jon.
 

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Change the rotor. If I understand what you're saying, spark is going to the rotor but not being delivered to the plugs. Not all that uncommon for a rotor to develop a ground so that's as far as the spark travels, grounds out before it takes the trip out to the plug posts on the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for fast reply Rider .. Hope you are still on ..

Can't pull rotor at the moment, - tried to to pull it off the post, wouldn't budge. Couldn't find a collar or a lock screw.

Is there a trick?

Jon
 

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I believe yours is held in place by a tiny screw (on the side?)
 

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Note it also says "screw" on top. :) Not being a smart-a*s because maybe they don't all say it but mine has "screw" embossed on top too. Originally I gave mine a tug too. I'm in the habit if something doesn't come off I look for a reason prior to using more force then I feel should be necessary. It was only then that I noticed the "screw" embossed on it and found the screw, I had never seen a rotor of that type with a retaining screw.
 

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If you are going to replace the rotor, do the cap too.

All told about 15 dollars. Well worth it.

And how long since the plugs and wires were changed ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
OK - thanks lads - have sourced a local rotor, cap not available. That may be OK as the cap looks pretty clean.

Will try to pickup a wire building kit and make a fresh set. Still - was expecting stronger pulse from coil.

It sparked coil to wire over good distance (4 inches) - and about 2 inches wire to cap .. But still orange rather than blue.

Will report back with results.

Jon
 

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Any updates? As for spark color, I'd not concern myself too much with that. The following was taken from a Briggs and Stratton coil test article but interesting just the same. It was listed under "old wives tales". I realize it's a different ignition system, but..
A bright blue spark is best. A yellow/orange spark signifies weak ignition. Not true. Spark color determines virtually nothing. The hottest spark is ultraviolet which we can't see. Blue spark is cold in comparison to ultra-violet. Orange and yellow come from particles of sodium in the air ionizing in the high energy of the spark gap.
 
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