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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, i wanted to share my sas build.
I will be removing the IFS stock front end and swapping on a
dana 44 full size axle off a 70's jeep wagoneer
hope you all enjoy the build, and please give advice if you see i need some
so lets get started :D

The before look


After removing all the IFS parts


The piece of s**t IFS front end pile


All these mounts need to go :twisted:



Having fun melting metal!!!


After removing the mounts :D



The aftermath of mounts and metal be torched!!


Next i will be fixing any lose ends and start measuring for mounting the axles. I plan is to make it look like this thing next to my Amigo :shock:


I will be working on this thing every weekend, or at least try too. So expect weekly updates on the build. I left on the factory shock mounts just in case i could use them, but may cut them off, dont know yet.I hope to hear from anyone with some helpful tips or personal experiance on SAS'ing Isuzu's!!!
 

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:happy1:

Dont know if I'd call the IFS a piece of ****.. just maybe not ideal for wheeling/crawling purposes.
 

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89Amigo said:
O yea...forgot

selling the 3 inch lift from Calmini

i have upper control arms, torsion bars, hardware, bump stops, and whatever else i pulled off.....

also selling the front axle, and 3rd member

pm me if interested

thanks
Sent you a PM. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
stusvend said:
:happy1:

Dont know if I'd call the IFS a piece of s---.. just maybe not ideal for wheeling/crawling purposes.
Very true, I will miss the smooth ride. But it isn't ideal for crawling, and that is what i'm building her for. Going to order parts this week, and hopefully be able to start mounting the front axle next weekend.

Does anyone have personal experience running rancho 44044 springs on their amigo? If yea do, could you let me know how yea like them :D ....or dont like them :(
 

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I am using stock Trooper leafs up front, shackles forward. My front shackles are stock length heavy duty. Trooper leaves are approx 47" along the curve with the pin offset 21" from the front eye, and 26" from the rear eye. The key to making the Isuzu springs live is to have a bump stop. They don't like to go inverted. They are about identical to Toy rear springs, Toy guys run rear leave up front often. Running 7-8 degrees caster.

The ride is better than stock and flex is very good. Amigo leafs might be good for you.

I advise moving the front axle about 5" forward. This makes the driveshaft angle better and the steering work with the stock steering box.

Leave your Isuzu box on there, and make a drag link going from your stock Isuzu Pittman arm to your passenger steering knuckle. A left-hand threaded tie rod end off of a 1967-1972 Ford 3/4 ton F-250 4WD will match the taper of the Isuzu pittman arm. You may have to use a shim to shim the nut out, and allow full engagement of the taper.

My D44 was already changed for 3/4" Heims. I used www.barnes4wd.com Heavy Duty Steering Kit with 3/4" Chrome Moly Heims.

www.independent4x.com has brake lines that go Isuzu to D44.

Ford shock towers work very well, cheap and easy to weld on. '88 F250 shocks towers (part number E5TZ-18183A)

Rodeo have D44 rears. This pinion flange fits your front D44 & lets you reuse you front driveshaft. You will likely have to retube it.

Inch front & metric rear lug nuts are a pain. Wheel studs were replaced with 12mm studs. Dorman 610-264 wheel studs are basically a direct replacement. They are slightly longer and have larger 12mm threads (same as Toyota uses), so I re-used use my old lug nuts and was able to keep the same lug nuts front and rear.

Above is a mix of me and research I found doing my SAS. I am sure to have forgotten things. Ask away... I am subscribed to your build here :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@ Maxwell417
Thanx for the information!! Much appreciated...
I'm going to go through www.ruffstuffspecialties.com for my leaf spring mounts, shackles, and shackle hangers. They are in california, so should be pretty quick to get here. Hopefully they come by this weekend :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
AustinT said:
Good luck on your SAS. I am in the middle of SASing my Truck this week. Still working on the measuring but hope yours turns out great!
Thanks Austin, you have a build page on your Truck? I like reading about and looking at other peoples projects!! :D
 

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Maybe you said and I missed it but what kind of front end are you swapping in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
stusvend said:
Maybe you said and I missed it but what kind of front end are you swapping in?
Swapping in full size dana 44 axles off a 70's Jeep Wagoneer..
They have 4.88 gears and the rear has a detroit...the front i will be welding because it has warn locking hubs...so welding wont be a hassle for street driving...Just waiting on the parts for now.... :( :(
 

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89Amigo said:
stusvend said:
Maybe you said and I missed it but what kind of front end are you swapping in?
Swapping in full size dana 44 axles off a 70's Jeep Wagoneer..
They have 4.88 gears and the rear has a detroit...the front i will be welding because it has warn locking hubs...so welding wont be a hassle for street driving...Just waiting on the parts for now.... :( :(
Nice. :thumbup:
 

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I think a welded front a hassle on the trail. With the front ARB locked my Trooper doesn't turn very good at all. I'd leave it open if funds ar short. My 1st choice ARB or Ox, 2nd an auto locker, 3rd LSD.
 

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maxwell417 said:
I think a welded front a hassle on the trail. With the front ARB locked my Trooper doesn't turn very good at all. I'd leave it open if funds ar short. My 1st choice ARB or Ox, 2nd an auto locker, 3rd LSD.
I agree. With the front locked it will be so hard to turn/ bump steer might be an issue. It is expensive but if your patient you can find a great deal on a locker along the way.
 

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And the welded diff will beat the crap out of your lockers and CV joints in proportion to the available traction, at every turn. Bad idea, especially up front.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
bowhunter8 said:
And the welded diff will beat the crap out of your lockers and CV joints in proportion to the available traction, at every turn. Bad idea, especially up front.
AustinT said:
maxwell417 said:
I think a welded front a hassle on the trail. With the front ARB locked my Trooper doesn't turn very good at all. I'd leave it open if funds ar short. My 1st choice ARB or Ox, 2nd an auto locker, 3rd LSD.
I agree. With the front locked it will be so hard to turn/ bump steer might be an issue. It is expensive but if your patient you can find a great deal on a locker along the way.
Well I need a locked front end for the type of wheeling I do....The front axle has warn locking hubs, so welding the front wouldn't be an issue..Just lock the front end when needed...and unlock when not needed so i could turn easy and it wont beat up my front end...i wish i could drop money on an arb air locker but thats wishful thinking :D
Parts should be here this week....so plan is to have front end mocked up and at least tacked and ready to be welded....Pictures to follow :D
 
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