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Discussion Starter · #541 ·
itsmehb said:
Looks like maybe a winch would have been handy in all that mud. Glad to see she held up through all that
Yeah a winch is on my list but my list is expensive! Had to do it the old fashioned way.

That clay was bad. I think I brought at least an acre of mud on the undercarriage. Reminded me of the wash rack when we used to bring in our tanks from the field back in my Army days.
 

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It's good to see it isn't a total street queen. Have you looked into a G80 rearend? That made a big difference on how mine performed off-road.
Looks like alot of us older guys have made runs in our Troopers, I ran almost 1900 miles on mine with a trip to Green River UT and Montrose CO a few weeks ago and BoiseTrooper ran his to his cabin and put miles on his build. Good to see them out in their natural environment!
 

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Discussion Starter · #543 ·
hessmess said:
It's good to see it isn't a total street queen. Have you looked into a G80 rearend? That made a big difference on how mine performed off-road.
Looks like alot of us older guys have made runs in our Troopers, I ran almost 1900 miles on mine with a trip to Green River UT and Montrose CO a few weeks ago and BoiseTrooper ran his to his cabin and put miles on his build. Good to see them out in their natural environment!
Dick my daughter just got back from a medical trip to Guatemala and now she's already talking about Costa Rica in December. I told her I would drive her there in the trooper! Would be an interesting journey.

Seriously though I have thought about an extended road trip to Alaska. Never been before and what better way to go Lol.

On the G80 is that the "Aussie Lok" thing? Definitely want to make improvements to the suspension and 4x4 parts as I have not touched any of that yet.
 

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The trip up to Alaska sound really interesting to me. I have been there numerous times but only the water side of it. Many decades ago I was a Coastie on a ship that did Bearing Sea and Gulf of Alaska Patrols. We were based out of Seattle but didn't spend much time there. I have only walked on land there in Juneau, Kodiak and further out on the Aleutian chain, so while I have been there I haven't seen much either.
The G80 I mentioned is the limited slip that is in many 2nd gen rear diffs. It is easily found by looking at the options codes on the second gens. It will say G80 right on it. I believe up to about 98 or so it is a simple swap, the gears are all the same, drop your rear diff out and bolt the other one back in. The anti locks will be there either on the diff or right at the rear brake hubs. Disconnect them and don't hook it back up. I have put them on my 91 Trooper and the 89 SpaceCab.
Simple mod that works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #546 ·
I'm pretty ignorant on the whole gearing/4x4 stuff so I will have to educate myself. Is the G80 kind of like posi-trac? Both rear wheels turn the same regardless of traction? What does the aussie lokker do?

Assume you have to find a G80 rear end from another Isuzu?

What about the front diff?
 

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G80 is the factory LSD. Lokka is a lunch box style locker. The lokka is fully locked, but can ratchet when turning and not under power. I'm not sure if posi-trac is another term for a limited slip Differential, LSD, (uses clutch packs and isn't a full locker), or is a full locker like a true trac.
 

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Positraction was (is) GM's name for a Limited Slip Differential (clutch-type). Same principle function as the Isuzu LSD, with spring pressure determining when the clutches would slip to provide differential action in turns, etc.

I found a pretty good explanation here: https://www.autolist.com/guides/what-is-positraction
 

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G80 is a torsen limited slip. So yeah, similar to a posi-trac. Tries its best to put the power down to both rear wheels. Lockers *fully* lock the two wheels together, and are usually manually toggleable. Lunchbox lockers have no manual toggle and try to go back to open when not needed but constantly engage and disengage, potentially ruining the streetability of the rig. The G80 has no issues on the street, and if anything make it handle better on the street.

To summarize, if money isn't an option then proper lockers are best. For pure performance and not caring about dragging tires and clunking noises, then an aussie in the rear could work. For a decent off road boost and no ill manners on the street, then a g80.

For me the optimum budget streetable setup is a G80 in the rear and an aussie in the front. Those are my plans hopefully by the end of summer.
 

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G80 in rear and Lokka in front is what I have in my Trooper. That same combo would probably be terrifying in my Amigo though, in the snow.

To add to what Tentin said, if money is no object then *sectible lockers are the way to go. That way you can leave the diffs open when you don't need to be locked and maintain all the streetability and control for most of the time. There are plenty of YouTube videos explaining the difference between the locker styles. EngineeringExplained is probably a pretty good resource for such a video.
 

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Discussion Starter · #551 ·
So I changed the O-ring on the speedo cable housing and wondered at the time how this would stop the oil migration up the cable. After that my foot got completely oil soaked on my trip. I looked at the blown up view of the trans and realized there was a small o-ring down in there. I replaced that one with a slightly thicker o-ring so hopefully this is the end of the oily foot!

We shall see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #552 ·
Got the G80 from the junkyard. Housing is a bit rough with rust but not enough I don't think to make it unserviceable. I'll clean it up and put some rust converter on it along with paint.

Does this thing bolt righ up with no mods to the 1988 rear end?

Thanks
Alan
 

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Ye sir it does. Just pop the rear axles like you did to get this one, remove yours and this one will bolt right up. MAKE sure you get the proper gear oil for the rear end. You can get the kind for a limited slip rear end or get regular gear oil and add an additive to the mix. Congratulations on getting the G80 removed! Use RTV as the gasket material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #554 ·
hessmess said:
Ye sir it does. Just pop the rear axles like you did to get this one, remove yours and this one will bolt right up. MAKE sure you get the proper gear oil for the rear end. You can get the kind for a limited slip rear end or get regular gear oil and add an additive to the mix. Congratulations on getting the G80 removed! Use RTV as the gasket material.
Thanks Dick, was not so hard once I found those little anti lock brake things that kept the axles from sliding out. Thanks for all the tips.

Do you recommend doing anything to it; cleaning lubing etc. prior to reinstalling it? It might sit a while before I get around to it. I do need to clean up the case.

Thanks again
Alan
 

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I would clean it up, get the dirt and crud out, I use brake cleaner myself, let it dry and they spray some kind of oil on it to prevent rust and wrap it to keep it clean. I have used a 5 gallon bucket in the past, with some kind of lid. When you install it the gear oil will lubricate it properly.
 

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Permatex 81182 Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker is Great Stuff for sealing diffs. It's more resistant to gear oil and LSD additives. I used it when I installed a new diff assy on my '67 Mustang's Ford 9" rear end, and have had Zero leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81182-G ... B0023GM2KK

Should be available at most auto parts stores as well............ed

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #557 ·
hessmess said:
I would clean it up, get the dirt and crud out
Yep I had a piece of cloth under it etc etc and still managed to drop the damn thing in the gravel! :twisted: I knew it was heavy but figured I had it under control but kind of awkward lying on your side under the vehicle.

Thanks for all the tips. As usual you guys are a huge help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #558 ·
So I finally got around to getting the G80 into the trooper. The donor vehicle had the G80 code on the data plate and I can't imagine it would have been switched out but having never seen the guts of one vs a standard open diff I thought I'd get you experts to weigh in if you can tell visually. I know it would suck to do all that work only to trade in basically the same diff.

Another stupid question; Can you put a LSD on the front diff?

Thanks
Alan
 

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Thought someone would of responded by now, I am traveling quite a bit. I can't see the inside of the diff well enough to make a call. I would really doubt it if someone had changed it out though. On the front diff you can put one in but it is a rare creature. I am not sure but I think you have to find an Impulse and take it from that. I would not go to the effort myself.
I have been running a G80 for years now with the open front diff and have been places that you would be amazed. When I get home I will look at one I have in the shed and get a good picture for you, probably another 2 weeks out tho.
 

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The foolproof way to tell is to count the teeth on the ring gear. Unfortunately, it's been so long I can't remember the number but 41 or 43 comes to mind. I think that divided by the number of turns of the ring gear to a fixed point give the ratio so you are looking for the 1:4.77 vs the 1:4.56 ratio. All that said, it's been a long time since I thought about this stuff so I might be talking out my butt, but you should have a starting point for some research. :D As well, since you have the diff still out, it's the best time to consider a locker as well. Installing a ratcheting locker isn't that bad, but index everything so the diff goes back together the same. I've got front and rear lockers in mine, but I also switched out front and rear diffs giving my 4.77 front and rear. Are the Aussie Lockers still an option through Independent4x anyone?
 
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