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giusedtobe said:
Thanks for the links! I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
I'd try to get a Factory Service Manual, the aftermarket ones have some errors in them. I think an on-line version is available, but I'm not that computer literate. I use the paper one. Hopefully someone else can point you in the right direction. I remember you start in the middle and work your way to each end.

Mike
 

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giusedtobe said:
Thanks for the links!

I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5a0yrtmejuqi2 ... l.pdf?dl=0

It is 1 GB

Also good advice above pulling the head and intake together. The itec is a major pain to remove by itself. When you have it off, it would be a good idea to replace all the little hoses even if they look fine. I had a coolant leak under the itec in one little hose and it was impossible to get to. I ended up doing my weber conversion at this point because once I had the itec off, there wa no way I intended to fight it ever again.
 

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giusedtobe said:
Thanks for the links!

I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
The attached pic shows the installation tightening sequence, just start from bolt #10 and work your way in for removal.
 

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gruff54 said:
My son put this head on his pickup. Not a ton of miles on it yet, but so far so good.
https://www.cylinder-heads.com/product/ ... ings-only/
I was caught in the same situation you are with the cylinder head, I got some work done on one I had in my stash when I did an engine replacement recently but still had problems with it so ended up ordering ^^ this one ^^ that Mike mentioned as a quicker solution. I too don't have many miles on it yet (under 200) but Clearwater has a great reputation and it's running great so far... my fuel injectors not so much, but that's a different story. ;)

Good luck with everything, looking forward to following along on your journey! :thumbup:

Jonathan
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Well I dug into the old rig this weekend and I have pretty much everything disconnected to remove the head outside of the exhaust manifold. I guess most leave the manifold on to remove the head? For the life of me I can't figure out how in the heck I am going to get to the exhaust bolts to disconnect it if I am to leave the manifold on to remove the head. Just not sure how you guys are reaching those bolts.

The good news is the timing belt was intact! The bad news is I am seriously doubting my ability to get all these vacuum lines and hoses back in the right spots! I went ahead and removed the radiator and belts with the intent on getting the radiator pressure tested and refurbished if needed. I also plan to put in a new water pump since I am in this far and I do not know the history of the vehicle. Did I read right that you have to pull the harmonic balancer to to get at a couple of the water pump bolts?? I must say also that I have a new appreciation of serpentine belts!

Any tips on disconnecting the exhaust south of the manifold and getting the water pump out appreciated.

Alan
 

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Take lots of pictures! You can also mark with masking or duct tape and a Sharpie. I don't recall having any issues taking off the exhaust manifold, the bolts are fairly accessible. But if you can't get 'em, there's a joint where the exhaust downpipe connects to the manifold, and you can undo the bolts/nuts there to release the pipe from the manifold.

Spray some PB Blaster, Kroil, or other penetrant on the nuts/bolts and let 'em soak for a day or so, it'll help get things apart.

If you remove the hood, you can pull the head straight out of the rig with a come-along or engine hoist. Be sure to make some match-marks by the hood bolts, so you can retain the hood alignment when you reinstall.
 

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. Did I read right that you have to pull the harmonic balancer to to get at a couple of the water pump bolts??

There is at least one bolt that's behind the lower timing cover. So to remove the lower timing cover, yes, the balancer must be removed. I replaced a water pump once by taking all the bolts out of the lower timing cover and bending it out to remove that one bolt. Wasn't easy but it did work. You can use the engine starter to break loose the nut. If you need to do that I can post a pic of the breaker bar and socket and some more info. The nut is a 24 mm. A 15/16 will also fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ed Mc. said:
Take lots of pictures! You can also mark with masking or duct tape and a Sharpie. I don't recall having any issues taking off the exhaust manifold, the bolts are fairly accessible. But if you can't get 'em, there's a joint where the exhaust downpipe connects to the manifold, and you can undo the bolts/nuts there to release the pipe from the manifold.
OK the bolts I am referring to are the bolts that connect the manifold to the pipe. Only way I can see to reach them is from underneath with a long extension. So you pull the exhaust manifold prior to the head and leave it attached to the exhaust pipe as opposed to pulling it out together?

As for the water pump, yikes what a bad design. This the furthest I have dug into an engine before so I have some concern on getting all the timing marks etc lined back up when I reassemble. Assume the balancer can only go on one way? Need to get the head off and evaluate that before the pump but good info.

Thanks
Alan
 

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I think it's easier to unbolt the manifold and leave the exhaust pipe connected. The nuts on the manifold studs where the exhaust pipe connects are usually really rusty and it's possible you'll snap off a stud, and who likes laying underneath and having rust particles fall into your eyes anyway. And yes the balancer will only go on one way. I'll enclose a pic so you can see the woodruff key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Great pics thanks! I got the manifold nuts off really easily which surprised me but I guess if I am taking it off prior to the head I have to remove the hard pipe tube that connects the exhaust manifold to the intake manifold. That one might be a bear. I soaked it good last night in penetrating oil. Assume this is part of the EGR. I must admit this smog pump and all the emissions stuff on this one is somewhat baffling. Then again my experience in the fuel delivery department is only on old carburetor vehicles and limited at that. Never dealt with fuel injection at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Could not get this fitting to budge. Anybody got any tricks here? This is the pipe that runs from the Ex Manifold to the intake manifold.

Also I loosened the head bolts and several were loose already. Unless the PO had already dug in here any idea why several of the bolts would be loose? The ones that weren't loose were not hard at all to break either so I doubt they were torqued down.

Thanks
Alan
 

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giusedtobe said:
Could not get this fitting to budge. Anybody got any tricks here? This is the pipe that runs from the Ex Manifold to the intake manifold.

Also I loosened the head bolts and several were loose already. Unless the PO had already dug in here any idea why several of the bolts would be loose? The ones that weren't loose were not hard at all to break either so I doubt they were torqued down.

Thanks
Alan
Do you have a torch? Heat the heck out of the manifold, then soak a rag in icy water & wrap it around the EGR pipe & nut. That might help to shrink the nut away from the manifold.

You do have to be careful on that hollow nut, to not crush it. A flare nut wrench might help with that. Heating the manifold then spraying with penetrant while it's still warm might help. Watch out, no open flame-age 'cause the stuff is flammable! Keep a fire extinguisher or at least some baking soda nearby, to prevent Bad Things Happening.

Here's some other stuff that might help, CRC Freeze-Off Super Penetrant:

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05002-Freeze ... 630&sr=8-2

It'll drastically lower the temp which helps to "crack" the part loose, and also allows the stuff to penetrate better. Seems like a good idea & has good feedback. It has a low flash point, so probably wouldn't be a good idea to heat the manifold before trying this stuff. The can says "Extremely Flammable" so I guess they're not joking!

Loose head bolts don't bode well, maybe somebody has been in there and didn't know what they were doing. A sure way to get a blown head gasket/warped head! So maybe that's a lot of the engine troubles.

Check all of the head bolt's sockets, if they're chewed-up you'll want to renew the bolts. Otherwise, they're not Torque-to-Yield, so they can be reused.

You might want to put some ARP Ultra Torque fastener assembly lube on your list of parts, it's pretty good stuff and will help to achieve even head-bolt torques.

https://www.amazon.com/ARP-100-9909-Tor ... B8Y4HNVVYD

You'll want a metric bottoming tap as well, sized 12mmx1.50, to chase the crud out of all the head bolt holes.

G'luck with that EGR pipe, it can be a real bugger! Worst case, maybe you can undo the intake manifold end of the EGR pipe and tie it back out of the way.
 

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If you do end up getting the Exhaust side of the EGR tube busted loose, when reassembling use some anti-seize compound on the threads. That'll keep it from getting stuck in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ed Mc. said:
maybe somebody has been in there and didn't know what they were doing.
Lol, I think you just described me! Hopefully when I am done with all the help from this forum I will know what I am doing!

I'll give those remedies a try on that EGR fitting. Had to take a break so I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Was a little reluctant to use a torch due to all the penetrating oil on there and also some gas that leaked when I disconnected the fuel line. Do you know the diameter of that nut? I am going to try and get a tubing style wrench in that size to break it loose. I have been using an adjustable wrench but i am worried about boogering up the fitting.
 

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"Adjustable wrench" DOH!

I don't recall the size, but it's probably something like 14mm or 15mm. Got a combination wrench? Stick it across the flats of the nut and see what fits!

Time for a decent set of metric wrenches if you don't have any, it's pretty hard to work on these with Crescent or other adjustable-types. Sears has good sales, and both Lowes and Home Depot have decent lines of hand tools that'll get the job done.

Here's a good deal on a Sears socket set but there's only 9 minutes left. Hurry!!

https://tools.woot.com/offers/craftsman ... 460a1c0e11
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I'm not really as tool challenged as that post may have sounded. More tool disorganized. I also have a project boat which is currently where many of my tools are. I just used the adjustable wrench and tapped it lightly with a convincer hoping I could break it loose. I'll try it the right way this afternoon.

Thanks
 

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Might also mention there is a bolt about midway between the two manifolds, right behind the head that when you have both ends loose still has to be removed. My opinion on the best wrench on the exhaust nut would be a metric flare nut wrench and a six point one at that. You don't want to round off that nut. I know what your facing. When I secured the 2.3 intake for my weber conversion (junk yard) I couldn't break loose that same nut on either end and had to saw the line in two using just the blade of my hacksaw. I was there almost 3 hours removing the intake. All's I can say is good luck. The heat sounds like your best bet.
 
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