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Nice one! The fuel pump should only run when A: You are cranking the engine over (to start it) or B when the engine is running. It will not run by just turning the key on. At least that is how it is on my 89.
 

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giusedtobe said:
Thanks for the links!

I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5a0yrtmejuqi2 ... l.pdf?dl=0

It is 1 GB

Also good advice above pulling the head and intake together. The itec is a major pain to remove by itself. When you have it off, it would be a good idea to replace all the little hoses even if they look fine. I had a coolant leak under the itec in one little hose and it was impossible to get to. I ended up doing my weber conversion at this point because once I had the itec off, there wa no way I intended to fight it ever again.
 

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I found a $30 (I think) Ford heater core that will fit but it does not have the valve on it. You would have to install a valve in the heater hose by the fire wall to turn heat on and off. Or pay the big price for a new core. Jerry may have one.

Mike

giusedtobe said:
Went by the radiator shop today and unfortunately my radiator has had it. He said they would have to re-core it which would be expensive so I guess I will have to source a new one which will be at least another ~$200 (its adding up! :cry: )

I think the heater core might have leaked as well so I need to remove that and test it. Does any one know where you can source a new one if need be. I cannot find one by web search but perhaps there are different ones from other cars that might fit. Guy on youtube (johnny) shows removing the AC exchanger to get to the heater box, assume this the only way?

I've located a machine shop that is supposed to do good work for reasonable rates. Going to borrow my father in law's hoist this weekend and hopefully get the engine out and start the break down. Any advice on machine shop instructions? I know they will need to clean the block and magnaflux it and then bore it and deck it if the block is sound.

Also getting in this far I will do the full rebuild so do you guys recommend a rebuild parts kit brand or vendor?

Thanks
Alan
 

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I got my Lokka last year for $300. It took a little while to get it. Came from Australia.
Had it installed in the front and I absolutely love it.
 

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WOW, I just read the entire thread, all 562 posts. Respect
giusedtobe
for sticking with it and not throwing a stick of dynamite at it. Amazing also all the feedback from the awesome board members and all your help and advise. Turned out to be a nice Trooper and you really have done a lot to it. Long journey!
I spend a lot of time alone way out in the back country where there is no cell signal, and that is one of the reasons or the main reason I did the weber conversion and ecm delete. Keeping it simple and serviceable.
If I look around at junkyards for a G80, are there different Isuzu models and years I should ask about?
 

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Thanks or condolences for reading all that!

Sadly I am experiencing a new problem. On the highway the other day it lost power. Just felt like it was running on three cylinders. I pulled off the highway and it shut off. Started back up but I had to rev it to keep it running. Was not hot and oil pressure was good so I limped it home and parked it. Will not have a chance to trouble shoot it until this weekend but no check engine light or anything. Other than a plug wire breaking down or something else electrical I am not sure what it would be. Any ideas before I dig in?
Haha, no - it was interesting and I sure admired your persistence and patience.
This happened to me once. Turned out to be a crack in the ignition coil. An easy fix. I hope yours is as simple of an issue. If your coil is on the valve cover, that little ground wire going to the firewall is important too.
 

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Well, that bites...did you re-torque the heads and check valves after the initial 500 miles? Might need to pull the valve cover and check things.
 

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This sucks. You probably know, it is much easier to pull the head with the intake attached.(Especially with the itec).
 

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You guys mentioned a head gasket shim before and my compression was pretty high so I am wondering if it may make sense to use one this time. Do you recommend using one? I do not know the exact amount the machine shop took off the top of the block when they decked it. If I do use one does reduce the life of the HG or have any other negative effect? What sealant do you use between the block and the shim?

Thanks
Alan
How high was your compression? I had 175 on all 4 and had to use 92 octane to reduce pinging. It's been running great for over 2 years. My guess would be the head gasket you used. I have been doing good with felpro.
 
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