I'd try to get a Factory Service Manual, the aftermarket ones have some errors in them. I think an on-line version is available, but I'm not that computer literate. I use the paper one. Hopefully someone else can point you in the right direction. I remember you start in the middle and work your way to each end.giusedtobe said:Thanks for the links! I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
Yep, from what I remember there are 4 bolts and 4 nuts. Two of the nuts are hard to see.shaggydoink said:
You may want to confirm this with someone more knowledgeable than me, but I thought the ITEC was a batch fire. That is, all injectors fire at the same time. I could be wrong though, it wouldn't be the first time.giusedtobe said:As I understand the 1 & 4 injectors pulse at the same time as do 2 & 3 so maybe 1 & 4 aren't pulsing or maybe its just due to lack of pressure.
I hope the problem was that the first two gauges were bad, sure would be nice to know for sure. Me, I hate it when mechanical things "fix themselves", good luck engine fairy or not. I always have this nagging fear of it happening again when I'm a ways from home. Anyway, glad you appear to have it sorted out.giusedtobe said:So I am going to chalk this up to the occasional good luck engine fairy because I didn't do anything to get a different result unless the first two gauges were bad.
I agree. From your pic, it looks close to a tooth off. Move it a tooth to see if you can get the marks closer.DSUZU said:I don't like the look of that timing mark. Personally, because of the problems you are having, I would move it back (C.C.) a tooth. I believe, based on the picture, that it would be closer to accurate that way. Don't forget to adjust the dizzy timing too. Yes, this is all a pain in the rear, but it may all be a part of getting this rig running.