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giusedtobe said:
Thanks for the links! I don't have a shop manual yet, anybody have the bolt pattern for the order you remove and replace the head bolts?
I'd try to get a Factory Service Manual, the aftermarket ones have some errors in them. I think an on-line version is available, but I'm not that computer literate. I use the paper one. Hopefully someone else can point you in the right direction. I remember you start in the middle and work your way to each end.

Mike
 

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shaggydoink said:
giusedtobe said:
Lastly, am I missing any fasteners on the intake/ITEC? Pulled four bolts and two nuts off of it. Still stuck tight.
there are two nuts that are pretty buried in there. Jonathan
Yep, from what I remember there are 4 bolts and 4 nuts. Two of the nuts are hard to see.

Mike
 

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My head came without studs, so I re-used the old ones. Double-nut them and then back them out. Hopefully they'll come out easy. If it were me I'd replace timing belt and tensioner, water pump, all hoses (coolant, heater, and vacuum), the things that would be a chore to replace later. Rotor, cap, plugs, and plug wires if they look like they need it. But they won't be too hard to get to later. Hopefully you'll get lucky and you'll have a sweet running engine. If it turns out you do have to rebuild it, you're only out your time. my $.02

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If you're having to open the valves, I'd say it'd be near impossible to turn. Can't remember if you can back the adjusters off enough to not open them? I hope you put the cam tower caps back in the location they came from, I think on my head they were numbered. I understand they are line bored so have to go back in the correct location. I got some switched around years ago and it locked the cam down tight. Hope this makes sense.

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The rear lifting eye attaches to the #4 cyl ex manifold studs. It may have been removed by a PO. Not looking at mine right now, but if the stud is long enough you can slide a chain link over it and follow with a washer and nut.

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Sure you got all the water out of the block after washing? I know a small amount of water will turn hydraulic fluid milky, I'd imagine motor oil would be the same. If it doesn't go back to looking like pure motor oil, I'd change it. On second thought I'd change it anyway just to be safe, if it were mine.

Mike
 

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Can't remember the correct rocker shaft orientation at the moment, but I do remember it is in the Factory service manual. I can look it up tomorrow if no one chimes in.

Mike
 

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CEL is check engine light. The fault codes can be retrieved using a jumper wire or paper clip. The procedure is on here somewhere. I'm on a computer w/o my old bookmarks, or else I'd supply a link.

Mike
 

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You probably did, but I'll ask anyway. Was the throttle butterfly held open while checking compression? Don't know what happens if you don't, but I've always been told that's the proper way.

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giusedtobe said:
As I understand the 1 & 4 injectors pulse at the same time as do 2 & 3 so maybe 1 & 4 aren't pulsing or maybe its just due to lack of pressure.
You may want to confirm this with someone more knowledgeable than me, but I thought the ITEC was a batch fire. That is, all injectors fire at the same time. I could be wrong though, it wouldn't be the first time.

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giusedtobe said:
So I am going to chalk this up to the occasional good luck engine fairy because I didn't do anything to get a different result unless the first two gauges were bad.
Alan
I hope the problem was that the first two gauges were bad, sure would be nice to know for sure. Me, I hate it when mechanical things "fix themselves", good luck engine fairy or not. I always have this nagging fear of it happening again when I'm a ways from home. Anyway, glad you appear to have it sorted out.

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Puzzling for sure. Thinking out loud here. Go back to square one. Since it was running well before the backfire, either something failed and caused the backfire or the backfire itself caused something to fail. I lean towards something failing and causing the backfire. Question is, what has to fail in order to cause a backfire? Only thing I come up with is timing. Guess I'd start by verifying timing, both cam and ignition. Confirm timing marks on the damper haven't moved. Is so, make a new mark in the right place. Get spark and compression at the proper time and it should at least run on gas squirted into the throttle body.

Mike
 

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What Ed just said. (Wish I was that articulate!) With everything set like he says, set rotor on #4, per Isuzu and time off #4. As far as sporadic spark, I chased a no spark issue for a while on one of my head replacements. Make sure all grounds are installed. I did but evidently missed something, because only after I made a new separate ground wire between the rocker arm cover and the block did I get spark. So double check those grounds and it may not hurt to run an additional ground.

Mike
 

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DSUZU said:
I don't like the look of that timing mark. Personally, because of the problems you are having, I would move it back (C.C.) a tooth. I believe, based on the picture, that it would be closer to accurate that way. Don't forget to adjust the dizzy timing too. Yes, this is all a pain in the rear, but it may all be a part of getting this rig running.
I agree. From your pic, it looks close to a tooth off. Move it a tooth to see if you can get the marks closer.

Mike
 
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