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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking at the maint logs for my 2004 Axiom and it says that the rear end oil should be changed at 7,500 and 15,000 miles and every 15k after that. That seems like a massive amount of overkill to me. I skipped the 7,500 and am at 15,000 right now. I bought some AMSoil 75w-140 synthetic with the thought of changing it. Once I got it popped up I noticed that it was the type that required pulling the cover instead of a drain and fill plug so I said the hell with it.

So I'm thinking about doing it at 30,000. Even that seems pretty frequent to me. Isn't this overkill? This is my first Isuzu (thank you very much, yes I do love it), and want it to last a long time. But is dumping $20 in oil and resealing the rear end necessary every 15? Do I need to do this to maintain my powertrain warranty?

Also, do you recommend getting a new gasket every time or going the RTV route?

Thanks guys!
 

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I would absolutely follow the owners manual for warranty purposes. 15k does seem a little too much though. Are you sure you are not looking at the "Severe Duty" chart??

You do not have to take the cover off to drain the diff fluid. You can buy a cheap suction type pump with the long tube attached and suck it out of the fill/check hole. It is kind of smelly and nasty though. On a whim I bought one of those 12 volt boat oil changers. I never thought it would suck out the thick diffy fluid, but it did. It took about 30 minutes. Small tube in hole, big tube in drain pan. Very clean operation. I thought about reversing the tubes to fill it up, but didn't. I use one these pump things that screw on a quart bottle, either differential fluid or oil. You put the tube in the hole, and pump away. It also comes in handy for the "no dipstick" Isuzu auto trans.

The easiest way is to go to one of the "Jiffy Boob" kind of places and let them do it. They suck it out as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am looking at the regular interval chart, not the severe driving chart. Coincidentally, it's the same chart that says to change engine oil at 7,500. (I do 5,000 with full synthetic.) Hmm, I guess it's time to buy a long suction bulb. Hadn't heard of that method before. Interesting at any rate. I'll get it up again this weekend and try that. Thanks.
 

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FWIW, with the Trooper the interval is 15k then 30k then every 30k mis thereafter. Makes me wonder why the Axiom would be twice as hard on diff fluids???

I would do the change ASAP. The first change can be the most critical as it will get out any residual bits left in from manufacturing.

If the fluid looks great, I expect it will, then you can probably do the second change after 30k mis, especially using synthetic. To be sure, pull the check plug 15k mis after the change and verify if the fluid is still good to go. Granted the warranty calls for something different. Remember you already violated it by not doing the 7.5kmi change. Granted two "wrongs" (missing the 7.5 change and every 15kmi thereafter) don't make a right. However if the fluid looks good and something goes wrong is the dealer really going to claim the fluid is the problem and ask you for receipts for all the changes? Maybe, but then again how often do rears go on these vehicles let alone during the warranty period?

Alternatively, if the fluid looks iffy at the first change then by all means do the change every 15kmis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Why the Axiom calls for 7.5K, 15K, and then every 15 after that is beyond me. It gets babied quite bit. It's been off road twice and I open up the engine only once in a while. Oh well. Knowing that changing the diff fluid is really easy now, I guess I'll buy one of those pumps.

I was looking at this one:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 6&R=390306

Thanks guys.
 

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Taking off the cover really isn't as bad as it sounds, and by the time you figure in all the pumping you'll be doing, a little more work and you can get ALL the fluid out (instead of leaving 1/4" of fluid at the bottom, that probably will contain most of the particulates you want to remove anyways)...

A handfull of small bolts, a puddy knife to remove the old gasket material, get a new gasket and some RTV, (or just use RTV, and then keep an eye on it for leaks).... take off the cover, scrap the joining sufaces clean.. let it sit draining for awhile, (possibly overnight).. it's not that bad.

with the cover off, you can also inspect the axle for any developing issues..., try to jostle the carrier, make sure it is good and firm in there. Look around on the gears for signs of accelerated wear (significant grooves or pitting)... this way you can identify if your maintanence schedule is working, and know if the new axle was built without any defects.

This is probably all very overkill, but man... If I could afford a NEW car... I would be doing overkill maintanence from the start, to prevent the pilup of problems that develop on cars 150k+ from a lack of routine maintanence....

I'm always thinking to myself "if only my previous owner had ----" etc..

FYI: good choice on putting the amsoil in there when ya do... The amsoil, should theoretically be more than enough protection.... and could probably be used for extended drains (30-50k per drain, possibly more depending on service) without any problems.... Wonder if 75W90 would have been more appropriot to reduce drag since you aren't using it "severe service" style.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I chose 75W140 to cover the temp extremes in MN. We'll see 105+ in the summer and -20 to -30 in the winter. And I'm averaging 15K a year right now. (Just got my 1st registration bill, had the Ax for 1 year this april.) So if 15K is overkill, I'd rather not change weight twice a year which would end up being every 7,500. Oh well. I'll get it changed this week.

Thanks again guys.
 
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