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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2002 Isuzu rodeo 2 wheel drive, 3.2L. A few months ago the transmission took a crap. Weather was warm so I rode my Harley for 5 or 6 months but now it's getting cold. I pulled the transmission with intentions to rebuild it. It fragged itself internally, piston return springs laying on their sides all chewed up, the inside of the drums were chewed up, etc. Basically I needed a different transmission. I went to pull-a-part and pulled another supposedly good 4l30e and torque converter out of a another rodeo. Bring it home, clean it up, install it & top it off with 7 and 1/2 quarts premium ATF (all it would take) and it's still not right. I have reverse and I have first and that's it. When I put it in drive it'll take off in first, shift out at the correct time, and that's it. Out of first and then will cost until the speed gets low enough to violently shift back down into first. Manually selected, I have reverse & first; no second, third or drive. The selection indicator in the instrument cluster is working correctly. As per my ATSG manual, at the transmission connector: shift solenoids A and b are supposed to have between 17.5 and 18.5 ohms of resistance. The 1-3/3-4 showed over 20 ohms. The 2-3 showed over 30. The A and b shift solenoids in the valve body of my old, original transmission are showing between 17.5 and 18 ohms.
I have two questions ultimately.
1. Is the ohmic value I have currently high enough to prevent the vehicle from shifting correctly, and if so should I replace the suspect solenoids with the two from my original valve body?
2. If the slightly elevated ohmic value I'm getting from the A and B solenoids currently installed it's not high enough to keep them from operating correctly, what other issues might I have that I can test for to determine exactly what my issue may be?
It's getting real cold here in the Louisville, KY metro area people, I could really use some help on this one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have an update on my post from a few days ago.
I have been spending some time reading as many posts as I can on this forum regarding 4l30e transmission issues. If the person known as the 4l30e guru would respond that would be awesome, but I will take any and all comers when it comes to advice on fixing this thing. Now to it.
As per the advice given on other posts I have done the following:
1. I took the selector switch off the transmission, disassembled and cleaned it thoroughly. Put a small amount of dielectric grease across all contact surfaces and reassembled it.
2. Confirmed the transmission when cold is COMPLETELY full of fluid.
Test drive revealed the following:
1. I have reverse.
2. I have 1st.
3. When I accelerate in drive WITHOUT power or winter mode selected the rodeo will accelerate in 1st gear till the RPMs hit between 4 & 5K. At that point it will shift out of 1st and into nothing. The vehicle will coast until vehicle speed reaches a point (I'm assuming) the TCM determines it's safe to drop back down into 1st gear.
4. When I accelerate in drive with the power selector switch activated the rodeo will accelerate beyond 5K before initiating a shift. And it shifts into nothing, again. Decelerates until VS is determined safe by the TCM, then shifts back into 1st.
5. When I put the vehicle in Winter mode, where it supposed to begin its forward motion in 3rd gear, it will not move. It sits and will allow me to wind the RPMs up, but will not move.
ADDITIONALLY I DID THE FOLLOWING:
In my previous post I said the ohmic values of the A AND B shift solenoids in my old valve body were within parameters. I removed and tested each solenoid separately with a 12V power supply. I could hear AND feel the A solenoid switching. B made NO sound??? If good it should have, right?
When I look at the power flow chart in my ATSG service manual, the ONLY thing that affects the transition from 1st into 2nd then 3rd and 4th is the second clutch. (Photo attached)
I have looked through this entire ATSG service manual and cannot find anything that explains the operation of the second clutch, or how I can test for its function.
Solenoid replacement, that's simple, I can do that. I even bought a rebuild kit for the old transmission and had every intention of doing it before I discovered it had fragged itself internally. I will attempt a rebuild on THIS one if necessary, but hope and pray it's something much simpler. A solenoid, or two? A simple adjustment?
I am at a standstill and it's getting real cold riding that Harley...
PLEASE, help me if you can.
 

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Hardly any visual traffic here for your important post. I don't know how to move it or I would. Buster28 is our 4130 guru, and would be a big help. Maybe one of the administrators could move your post to drive train questions where it would be seen
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you very much for your input.
I'm new to this and hadn't quite figured out the process. When I first wrote this post I thought I WAS posting it on the main board. Just yesterday afternoon I did post a COPY to the main boards drive train questions area. I had to do it as a copy and paste, leaving this original in the "test area". Can't figure out how to delete it, or even if I have to.
Buster 28 has already responded although his answer was somewhat vague. He explained the function but not the repair. I re-posted the question to him and anyone else that might have a more specific answer. Any idea?
 
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