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Cleaned EGR pipe yesterday.... {Update, Cleaned EGR too...}

59K views 48 replies 30 participants last post by  OregonSlimMF 
#1 ·
I hope this is the forum for posting this and if it's been detailed before I'll apologize now...

After reading a number of comments here regarding the EGR pipes I figured I 'd take a look at mine..
For reference motor is the 3.2 V6 in my 01 RODEO.

The logical way to reach the pipe seemed to be by removing the TB so that's what I did.
In this PIC I have unplugged the connectors that were in my way as well as removed the tube going to the A/Box.. This connector BTW was a bit tricky but I was careful and once figured out how to release the connector it was no biggy.. (btm R in Pic)

Another veiw showing that I also disconnected the temp sending unit so it would also be out of my way..

Remove the 4-10 mm bolts and the TB comes right off.. At this point I disco'd the two coolant lines and can say for sure with my rig that was the most difficult aspect of the entire little project.. Be careful removing these lines, breaking/cutting one will put you out of commission until replaced..
This is the L/Side of the line, I removed the line from both places here to clean the fitting so it will come off easier next time, there is another similar line o the R/Side of theTB as well but I didn't get a PIC of that..

Here the TB is off and I have a flixible cleaning brush in the pipe.. I ran the brush in and out a couple times, hit it W/Deep Creep, let it soak for a few minutes then flushed it out W/more Deep Creep using one of those blue shop type paper towels to catch all the crud that came out..


In these two PICS I show the cleaned TB, at this point it was hosed down W/Carb cleaner & Deep Creep then scrubbed with a small parts brush..



Almost back together, BTW tools needed were few and I removed and reinstalled the TB using a 1/4" ratchet..

ALL done... :wink:


This time it prolly took me about an hour from start to finish.. As mentioned the coolant lines were a PITA & I'm sure I can do it again in 30 min no prob now that I've done it once..

The CARFAX from this vehicle shows the "Induction" system was "Serviced" @ 78K miles at a TOYO Dealership. I wonder what exactly that consisted of? The intake itself doesn't look too bad to me but I'm going to run some SEAFOAM in my fuel for the next tank just the same.
 
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#29 ·
pbrooke said:
You have officially earned "Sticky Status." 8)
Yea Man, that's pretty cool I think..
Thank you for your vote/suggestion BTW, that was nice of you.. :eek:ccasion5:

johnnyquattlebaum said:
I am no mechanic, but thanks to your pics I will attempt at taking a crack at this operation...BTW what's a TB?
It's a piece of cake Mang, don't be in a big hurry and you'll be just fine..

BTW, TB= Throttle Body.. No need to be skeered, aint nuthin but a thang..
 
#30 ·
psguardian said:
95Rodeo4x4 said:
johnnyquattlebaum said:
BTW what's a TB?
I am going to assume he meant Timing Belt :D
Tsk Tsk... When intake system is the topic TB normally means Throttle Body.

~psguardian
the only reason I said timing belt was because in one of the pictures I saw bare pulley's :bootyshake:

:lol: :lol:
 
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#31 ·
Awesome write-up and great pictures. I was taking the whole manifold off and cleaning the whole thing (it was a complete mess) and because I had a good possibility of an upper manifold leak due to warping/loosening. But, don't wait to do the EGR cleaning (clean the throttle body, EGR tube, EGR valve pintle, and replace the EGR valve gasket when you do that). Power, stability, and gas mileage may all improve. I just finished today, but already after driving for about 90 minutes, the power and stability (my engine stalled a lot before) have really improved.
 
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#33 ·
HELLO EVERYONE!!!

I'm sorry for missing these recent posts but I haven't been on here in months..
My "INTENTION" was to add even more info but I started a NEW job in OCT of last year and it's kept me pretty busy..

If my thread has been useful to anyone I'm very pleased and it was my sincere pleasure to post it up here..

All the best, MIKE
AKA FNFAL308
 
#37 ·
Checked mine out and I could barely stick a clothes hanger into the opening inside the engine. I didn't remove the throttle body. I parked my Amigo so the rear of the vehicle was higher than the front. I removed the egr valve and it was heavily soiled as well. Sprayed seafoam into the egr side and let it run downhill. Did this for quite awhile to let it soak. Cleaned the egr and let it soak as well. Did this over 3 hours or so, ran to the store to get a new gasket. Ran the coat hanger in every so often. Then put some small kinks in the hanger to grab more. Making progress. Later on, after more soaking, put a small hook on the end of the hanger to pull the crud out. Going by the feel of it, the whole tube wasn't that plugged up, most of it was just the very end of the tube. It's one of those easy jobs as long as you're in the right frame of mind.
 
#38 ·
I was getting the low flow EGR code. Checked this and my EGR tube was completely clogged. Took a small screwdriver to poke a hole in the crud in the end just so I could get the cleaning brush in the end. Didn't pull the coolant hoses but had enough slack to do the job. Sprayed a lot of deep creep into the tube from the valve and brushed it good. Sucked it out with a shop vac. Hooked everything back up and so far no code. Thanks to this post I didn't waste money on a new EGR valve.
 
#39 ·
Well, my "02 180k mile trooper threw this code a couple of days ago. If you look at the attached pics it's pretty clear why (guess which is before and which is after). So, I pulled the throttle body and EGR and got busy. 40 minutes later the tube was all cleaned and everything was back together and no more code.

In fact, today turned out to be a kind of "Trooper love" day. She got an oil change and new air filter, EGR cleaning, AND a set of Monroe OESpectrum shocks (fronts were OEM and TOAST, backs were Rancho 5000's that I had slapped on there 100k ago and weren't much better than the fronts). Next thing will be a timing belt/WP change since I'm living on borrowed time at 180k on the originals.
 

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#40 ·
I just completed this procedure today, great article and it was 100% the root cause of EGR flow issue.
The EGR pipe outlet behind the TB was 100% blocked.
Note, complete removal of the TB was not required. I was able to rotate it out of the way after unbolting it without having to disconnect the coolant lines. I agree - removal of the TB coolant lines is a PITA.
Also noted, there was a lot of oil in the intake manifold with no obvious oil coming from the valve cover vent through the TB inlet.
It's obvious I need to perform the Intake manifold gasket replacement as well...
 
#44 ·
Great write up :)

Just did this, found the tube severely coked upped....... Like cement , instead of tons of aerosol carb spray and harsh words, I used a common steel sink drain snake I shortened and duplicated the auger end with a little bending..... It worked great to punch through the cement..... I was tempted to just cut a piece of the snake and hook to the drill.... but took a breath and realized I aint in no hurry, dont wanna tear something up..... so just used the handle set up that came on the snake and hand cranked it...... run it in, pull it out, clean auger end, do it again.... tube was solid clogged a good 6 inches.... when it was through it made it alot easier to clean... Harbor Freight brass pipe brush kit did the trick..... my driveway is sloped so the front of the vehicle is alot higher then the rear, so alot of carb spray, brushing and keyboard duster co2 out the egr port with EGR removed, less garbage and spray in the intake the better :D .... Here is the snake I used, had a pack of 3 the wife had picked up off QVC I presume many years ago stashed under the kitchen sink brand new in the Chinese box...



Also t-body gasket and egr gasket Fel-Pro got for the cheap off ebay.... Fel-Pro 61517 and 70789


And HF brush kit I used....


All my tools and everything I own is in a storage in Arizona,other side of the states for me right now :)so I am glad I could do alot of what I am doing to her trooper with basic tools, no air compressor, cheap tools off ebay and loan a tool from the zone.... oh and no time constraints ! :mrgreen:

Also I left the throttle body off, plugged it in and all the other stuff I unplugged, turned the key on and used a piece of pvc pipe cut length to push against the seat to hold the throttle peddle down to the floor to open the t-body butterfly open.... good cleaning and scrubbing.... all done and removed pcv pipe and shut the key off........

I did not know if you can manually open the butterfly on fly by wire Isuzu stuff....... I did some work on a Nissan years ago with electronic throttle control and cleaning the t-body I manually opened the butterfly with the car off... well I guess you dont do that, I was doing Nissan overflow work and had one of the Nissan Techs plug the Nissan scanner in and relearn the throttle... so I didnt take the chance with the Trooper.....

Again great write up !! Thanks! :D
 
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#45 ·
Man I really wanted to hear that cleaning the egr pipe made a huge difference. My pipe is clogged up big time. I'm still going to clean all that carbon out tomorrow.

 
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#46 ·
Yep, the wifes Trooper looked just like your Pic...... If you have an air compressor and rubber tip blow gun it will make life easier...... I dont know if it will make your engine run any better, but sure will get rid of the EGR code..... Also get a set of new spark plugs to install after you are all done and put a few miles on her to blow all the debris and carb cleaner that ends up in the intake.... Get out as much of the debris you create, chunks are not good being ingested into the engine,also dont flood the intake with carb spray, I stuffed a rag under the tube to soak up and catch stuff as I was cleaning...... dont wanna bend valves or have carbon crushed on top of the piston causing a knock or permanent damage. and excessive carb spray ingested causing hydro lock bending a rod or breaking rings etc..........
 
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#47 ·
OK, i used a screw driver to hold the plate open and a coat hanger to clear a path. Then i started it up and it ran like crap for 30 seconds and then went back to normal. Then i cleared the code, and took it out for a test drive where i drove it like i stole it on some country roads for about 15 minutes. The code has not returned. I will see what happens tomorrow. I do plan on adding a gas additive that clears the system once my gas gets low enough to add (says to add on an empty tank).

It was only blocked an inch or two back and then it opened right up.
 
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