Late Model Isuzu FAQ

Date: 2004, Oct 22
Author:

Isuzu FAQ Rodeo, Amigo, Rodeo Sport and Trooper (1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003)

If you're looking for a key word hit Ctrl-F and type in the word you would like to search for

Please email me at Ryan_endres@juno.com for additions and/or corrections.

The list is a bunch of information that I have collected from other Isuzu owners over the past 5 years.

Link to another Isuzu FAQ Site

A. 30k Maintance?

My gas gauge is wrong how do I fix it?

My engine is knocking and ping’ing what can I do?

My truck seems to use a lot of oil, why?

I hear an air leak sound while the engine is running and my engine runs ruff, what could it be? Intake manifold gasket leaking: (P0300).

How to repack front wheel bearing, and when?

I have transmission problems ( ECU code: P1870).

I have lower gas mileage what can I do?

My Rodeo or Amigo thumps or clunks while stopping or taking off from a stop?

I want to change my timing belt what else should I change?

Where can I purchase OEM parts?

Where can I purchase non OEM parts?

Where can I buy OEM used parts (mirrors, wheels, lights, body parts . . . )?

My Check engine light came on, where can I get it read at?

How do I change the spark plugs and which plugs should I use?

How and when should I replace my fuel filter?

I have knocking sound under idle and and/or around 2500 RPM, what can I do?

18. I would like to replace my shocks, which one should I use?

I'm sporadically losing power, what can it be?

How do I replace the bulbs in my tailights (Rodeo)?

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How to change the Rear diffy Fluid:
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My factory 6 disk CD player died (ERR3) what can I do?

I would like to add a high flow air filter, which one?

I want to replace my rubber bushings with poly ones, where can I buy some?

What does the Power and Winter buttons do?

Possible ways to help sensitive ABS brakes

Where in the antifreeze drain plug on the block?

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Transmission leaking possibilities?
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Transmission filter replacement and partial fluid swap?

A. 30k maintance?

1) Change front and rear axle oil 
2) Change transfer case oil - included in the above time 
3) Replace Air Cleaner Filter 
4) Change engine coolant (seems kind of early)
5) Rotate tires 
6) Repack front wheel bearings (tires are already off due to the rotation above) 
7) Check battery fluid – included in oil/filter change below 
8) Check engine coolant level – included below 
9) Check brake fluid level – included below 
10) Check fluid leaks – included below 
11) Change engine oil – included below 
12) Replace engine oil filter 
13) Check heater hoses – 
14) Check exhaust system 
15) Check engine drive belt 
16) Check tires and wheels – included in rotation above 
17) Check steering operation  including lube 
18) Check brake lines and hose – included below 
19) Check disk brakes – 
20) Check brake pedal play – should be included in the above 
21) Check parking brake – 
22) Lube accelerator linkage – 
23) Check suspension and steering – steering included with 17, suspension 
24) Check power steering fluid level – included in oil change 
25) Lube body and chassis – included in oil change 
26) Check TOD system fluid – included in oil change 
27) Check auto cruise control linkage and hose ??? Never used cruise control, lets assume 10 minutes 
28) Check starter safety switch – 
29) Check accelerator linkage – included in 22 
30) Lube key lock cylinder –

Finally yearly I would also, clean out the EGR (instruction below), and clean or replace the PCV, and

the throttle body.

How do I clean the EGR: (CEL code: P0401)

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=85576&highlight=egr

1 : Remove the EGR valve there are 2 holes the larger one is the one that supplies exhaust, flow don’t worry about it. The other is a vacuum port this is where exhaust gases are directed when the EGR valve opens, carbon deposits stick to the walls of the vacuum port and in time will restrict flow normally about 30,000 miles.

2: Check your local dealer for Intake cleaner ask about BG products all you will need is the intake cleaner (spray can), or head to your local parts place and pick up a can or carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors, find something to plug the larger hole make sure it will not vibrate and fall out there will be slight exhaust pressure on it but not much just be sure it is plugged real well because if not you may be surprised by a flame. Once plugged start the vehicle, spray intake cleaner into the vacuum port you may have to raise the idle to do or just open the throttle by hand spray until the can is empty.

3 : check your EGR valve push the pintle on the bottom be sure it moves in and out freely if not clean it don’t replace the valve once the pintle moves as it should reinstall the EGR valve disconnect battery for a few minutes or have code cleared.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?s=4b7be6dd365ad80ca3ce4a4ad1c516cd&threadid=3203

Here is my own write up:

First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.

I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried

to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake

 and place it above the TB.

So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of

carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake

 and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1,

 and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in

the butterfly to let it air out.

Next I removed the egr, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the egr itself. I sprayed down the inside of

 the egr and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the egr tube and the hole next to it,

 and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the egr sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes

 before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing.

 I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10

seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light!

 NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated

the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled

in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car

yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!

Just a little FYI, +98 Isuzu have a solenoid to activate the sprung pintel in the EGR. The pintel is what gets carboned up, and needs to be cleaned. Diaphram EGR's, are actuated by vacuum lines to the EGR. Many mechanics are not use to this new solenoid activated EGR and assume that when there is a fault code, it is a bad diaphram.

LINK TO A PHOTO OF THE UNDERSIDE OF THE EGR

Link to photos of the EGR port

I have a CODE P 440: Evap system, what is the problem?

The first thing to do is the check the gas cap, make sure it is tight, make sure you give it 5 or 6 clicks. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. And then start it up. If the CEL is still on, the next step would be to clean the EGR (see the above write-up).

My gas gauge is wrong how do I fix it?

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=193601

Fuel Sending Unit -- Recall in 6-8wks (post on 24Feb04)

"I was called by NHTSA and I was told to expect the fuel sending units on 98-99 Rodeo to be

recalled by Isuzu. They said expect 6-8 weeks."

You have a bad sending unit. If you are still in warranty you may get your dealer to replace it. If not you can purchase the sending unit without the fuel pump. The part number for the 1998-2000 Rodeo is P/N 8-25323-011-0. Cost ~36.00 from St. Charles Isuzu

http://www.forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=579

Write up how to: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=529309&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=1&fpart=1

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=419532&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=1&fpart=1#Post457023

My engine is knocking and ping’ing what can I do?

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=178212

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=153083&highlight=ion

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. Check the link below to buy them for 6.80/plug (note the dealer charges about 17/plug)

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1363272&mfid=3

The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340). Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due to to ion sense coils.

If you have 1998-1999, the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs.

A dirty EGR port may cause knocking. Knocking also, may be caused by carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. Adding one 20oz bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate® every 3k, will help to keep the combustion chamber and fuel injectors clean.

Finally keep that PCV valve clean! Either replace it once a year, or pull it every 6 months or so and spray it out with some carb cleaner.

My truck seems to use a lot of oil, why?

Oil usage. Yep Isuzu states that 1qt/1000miles is within spec. So the key is to keep an eye on your oil. The most common ways to decrease your oil consumption is to clean your EGR valve and tube, EGR port (behind the intake butterfly) (link to a how to clean the EGR), replace the PCV valve. Also, trying to keep the rings clean (add Chevron Techron Concentrate® every 3k, and once a year add a half can of Sea Foam® to the oil (following the directions). Dirty rings (holes in the rings) are the main cause for oil usage. The 98-mid00 have fewer and smaller drain holes in the rings as compared to the 93-97 3.2L rings. The second part of 2000 Isuzu put in rings with more and bigger holes, but there still seems to be many 2000-2002 Isuzu’s that use oil.

Oil usage commonly increases while driving the truck hard, including during highway interstate conditions. If your taking a cross country trip, check your oil every time you fill up with gas.

If you take many short trips with your truck, make sure you change the oil at least every 3k. If you don’t run the truck (or any vehicle) at least 30 minutes every time it is started up the oil breakdown products are not able to boil off and can cause sludgeing (which can clog those oil rings).

Quote from an Isuzu tech:

"the piston has three rings top compression second compression and oil scraper ring the oil scraper ring land (groove) has oil drain back hole in the piston which get plugged causing oil consumption I've reringed to many of these motors under warranty for isuzu."

The Isuzu service bulletin regarding excessive oil consumption (> 1qt per 
1000 miles) is service bulletin # IB00-01-5002.

As for Oil useage, I was reading my CD manual last night, and it stated the following reasons for increased oil consumption: 1. Dirty EGR (system) 2. Dirty PCV 3. Carbon up piston rings 4. Long highway trip 5. Towing

I hear an air leak sound while the engine is running and my engine runs ruff, what could it be? Intake manifold gasket leaking: (P0300).

Do you have a Rough idle, check engine light on, or air leak noise from under the hood. The Intake gasket breaking may be the cause on the 98 and newer v/6 Trooper and Rodeo.

Surging, stalling and system lean bank codes points towards a bad intake manifold gasket.

You may also hear whistling sound that goes away after a couple of weeks. It goes away after the hole in the gasket gets bigger.

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/15

Stalling / TSB about a leaky intake manifold gasket. Presents itself as a sporadic stalling problem under the following conditions: a. Engine at normal operating temp. b. Low speed or acceleration from a stop. c. 15-20 seconds before shut down, engine feels sluggish like missing fuel. d. The engine stalls and is hard to start but after 3-5 minutes of rest it does perfectly fine and engine runs smoothly. Solution 1: Check computer and reset/check PCM wires. Solution 2: Dealership says most of the 3.2L's they checked for a leaky gasket turned out to have it.

If you have the 10yr/120k warranty you are covered.

Isuzu P/N: 8-97237-538-0 list for $18.88 ea

This message was from Sam Jelinek, who many of you know from ZuZoo and elsewhere. He is an Isuzu Master Mechanic

 I believe, and in this message he described how to replace an intake manifold gasket on the 3.2/3.5 engine.

Please note that I have not tried this procedure, and cannot say if and how well it works. I offer it simply because many of us with Isuzu V6 engines are getting out of warranty now, and may need DIY instructions.

So here it is, paraphrased and edited for clarity (Sam is a better mechanic than writer):

Quote: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Something that has been showing up even more lately on the new V6 engine, the intake gaskets are starting to leak and break. If the gasket is leaking real bad you can hear an air leak from the engine, almost like the airbox is not tight.

Using a can of brake cleaner you can check this very easy. Spray around the intake, most of the time on the drivers side, and you can find the leak.

To repair the leak, here is how it goes:

Remove the air intake hose from the throttle body.

Remove the 4 bolts that hold the throttle body to the intake. No need to remove any other hoses from the throttle body.

Unhook the injector wiring from each injector.

This is the hard part: on the passenger side of the intake you have to remove the EGR flow pipe nut. You will need a 7/8" or 22mm wrench, may even have to cut the wrench short to get it in there.

Remove the 2 long bolts on each side.

Remove the 2 short bolts from each side, I think they are on the front and rear of the intake.

On the Troopers the intake will lift up enough to get the old gaskets out. On the Rodeo use short bungy cords to hold the intake up so that the old gaskets can be removed.

When removing the old gaskets be careful, they may be broken. Do not let the pieces fall into the intake.

Use a clean rag to wipe off the intake surface on the cylinder head and reinstall the new gaskets.

Let the intake back down and start the EGR flow pipe before putting the other bolts in the intake.

Reinstall the other bolts and air intake hose.

http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=474281&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=1&fpart=1#Post474461

How to repack front wheel bearing, and when?

The manual states it should be done every 30k. Others have stated that if you do not do deepwater crossings, or off-road in the mud you should be safe having them repacked when you have the front brakes replaced (stick with OEM pads, non OEM pads usually cause squeaking) You can check to see if your bearings need to be repacked by: jacking the front wheel of the ground. Grab onto the top and bottom of the wheel and tug back and forth. If you have excessive play you should think about repacking the bearings.

How To article:

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

I have transmission problems ( ECU code: P1870).

I have not read many posts on problems with the transmissions on the 98-03 Isuzu's. Some common problems are that the tranny feels like it is slipping or it is shifting funny. Many times this is due the a weak charging system (battery that is dieing, or the alternator is on the way out) or the electrical connection to the tranny is loose and dirty.

As for changing the tranny fluid, some are for flushing and others think that dropping the pan is the best way. If you only drop the pan you will only be removing about 40% of the fluid, whereas the flush will pretty much replace all of the fluid. There is a filter in the pan that should be replace at some point (your guess is as good as mine, but some have mentioned a 60-90K interval to replace the filter, but always change the fluid at least every 30K or sooner if you only do a partial fluid swap). Fluid is cheap, but a new tranny costs about 3500 bucks, keep up on your tranny maintance.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=178005&highlight=code

I have lower gas mileage what can I do?

Might be due to, colder weather, winter grade gas, dirty PCV valve, dirty EGR, dirty fuel injectors, low tire pressure, front and/or rear end needs to be aligned, dirty air filter, weak battery or weak alternator. If you replace or clean any of the above pieces make sure you disconnect the battery for at least 15 minutes so the ECU will recalibrate itself.

My Rodeo or Amigo thumps or clunks while stopping or taking off from a stop:

This is not normal. It is due to the slip yolk needing to be greased. This is a common problem on the 1998-2003 Rodeo’s and Amigo’s due to the 2 piece design. The 2004 have a one piece design (wonder why?). Re-greasing the slip yolk, or drilling and taping and inserting a grease zerk can fix the problem, for awhile at least, until it needs to be greased again. Some dealers will do this under warranty. I paid my dealer 50 bucks to do the job.

Recommend using RED CROWN grease

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=310&highlight=clunk

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=368&highlight=thump

Link to slip yolk on a Ford truck (good referance)

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=318&highlight=thump
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=113512&highlight=clunk

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=650&highlight=clunk

I want to change my timing belt what else should I change?

The number one thing you need to replace while the timing belt is being replaced is the belt tensor and the water pump. If either of these two go bad after the timing belt is replace you will have to pay for the labor again. So if they (the tech) are already in there have them replaced. It has been noted that the 3.2 and the 3.5L 98-04 engines are non-interference. One owner noted that after he had his timing belt replaced at local shop, but when he drove it home the engine ran very rough. He took it into the dealer, and then found that one crank shaft was 180 degrees out on synch. They moved it back 180, buttoned it up and it run perfect.

Where can I purchase OEM parts?

The guys at St Charles Isuzu, have the best prices on OEM parts (free shipping). Mention you heard about them on the web and they will give you an additional discount.

Toll Free: 800-727-8066

http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/frameset1.asp?LINK=Parts&MAIN=parts_department

Where can I purchase non OEM parts?

https://www.rockauto.com/applet.html

Where can I buy OEM used parts (mirrors, wheels, lights, body parts . . . )?

https://www.car-parts.com/

My Check engine light came on, where can I get it read at?

Autozone, offers free code reading (the dealer will charge 60 bucks or more to read the codes. The most common reason the CEL will come on is due to the gas cap is not tight enough or something else emission related CODE P 440

You can buy a cheap code reader for 30-50 bucks (often on sale) at Harbor Freight link to code reader . If you take it to the dealer or another mechanic your going to pay 50-80 bucks for them to read your codes. Nice piece of equipment to keep in your glove box or garage, so you can help others to diagnose there their troubles.

How do I change the spark plugs and which plugs should I use?

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. Check the link below to buy them for 6.80/plug (note the dealer charges about 17/plug)

http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1363272&mfid=3

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=153083&highlight=ion

If you have a 2000-2004 Isuzu, make sure you only use Denso K16PR-P11 spark plugs. The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340). Also, it has been noted that some 00 trucks came with champion plugs from the factory, which cause knocking, due due to ion sense coils.

If you have 1998-1999, the suggested plugs are NGK or Denso or Champion double platinum plugs.

It has been suggested that bosch platinum plugs commonly cause the CEL to come on in +98 Isuzu's.

To remove the coil over the plug, remove the two screws, then unplug the connector (two wires going in) then twist twist twist the coil (wrap fingers under the coil), and then twist and pull up. If you only tug up it may not come off the plug. The key to getting to the drivers side firewall plug is to use 2 short extensions, a U-joint, and the long extension. Then by feeding the short extensions into the plug hole one at a time followed by the u-joint and the long extension. The easy way to get the plug back in the hole is to place a piece of rubber tube (or a clear flexible tube) onto the end of the plug and then put the assembly into the hole and gently screw it in to assure that you are not cross threading the plugs. Make sure you place some di-electrical grease on the top of the plug and some anti-seize on the treads.

Just passing along some info that some might not be aware of. Don't try to remove plugs in an Aluminum head while it's warm, the thermal expansion/contraction is different in both materials. The plug will be expanded longer than the head, you can pull threads out doing this. Always use Anti-Sieze on Aluminum heads. From the Edelbrock site "When installing spark plugs into all Edelbrock aluminum cylinder heads, be sure to use anti-seize thread lubricant at all times".

http://edelbrock.com/automotive/index.html

Finally, the product

http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=09126

How and when should I replace my fuel filter?

The manual states every 30k. The OEM part cost less then 15 bucks and is located under the driver’s side door in the frame rail. There is one bolt that keeps the filter in the bracket. Also, to lessen gas spillage remove the gas cap, and you can pull the fuel pump fuse under the hood, start it up and run it until it dies (note this may cause a CEL, but by disconnecting the battery, recommended while removing the fuel filter, it will clear the codes). Once you have removed the screw, move the hose clamps back and then you can remove the rubber fuel lines by twisting (twist them for a bit, 20 seconds) and then twist and pull them off. This is about a 30-45 DIY job.

I have knocking sound under idle and and/or around 2500 RPM, what can I do?

Commonly this is caused by the idler tensor that keeps the serpentine belt (the only you can easily see on the engine) taught that is bad – or – the timing belt tensor is bad.

I would like to replace my shocks, which one should I use?

Many folks have replaced there stock shocks with: monroe sensa-tracs

Place to buy shocks:

http://a-1shocks.com/

Part numbers for Rodeos/Amigos:

Front: p/n 37159

Rear: p/n 37160

Please NOTE: If you have ISC shocks from ISUZU the rear shocks listed here will not fit.

More info:

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=227&highlight=shocks

I would like to buy a lift, bumpers, locker or other off road equipment, where can I buy it from?

http://independent4x.com/

http://darlington-offroad.com/

http://www.pureisuzu.com/isuzumain.htm

Link to Lift install write up

I want to replace my Amigo's hardtop with a soft top, is it possible?

Yes it is possible. I have a soft top for the summer and a hardtop for the winter. I picked up a used top from http://www.car-parts.com/ for 150 bucks. It took me a couple of hours the first time and now I can do the switch in under an hour.

More info:

Link with how to and photos

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001071.html

Quote from the above link:

Tools needed... 1)12mm socket, ratchet, extension 2)Phillips head screwdriver 3)Panel popper or flat head screwdriver First step, remove hard top... 1)two brackets at leading edge of top where it meets vehicle. Remove plastic cover, remove four bolts. Remove two brackets. 2)Remove plastic trim between roll bar and side window. Remove two bolts (one each side). 3)Remove covers above tail lights- four phillips head screws (two each side). Remove two bolts and two nuts (one each on each side) 4)Lift rear of top, unplug third brake light on left side and washer fluid hose on right side. 5)Lift top off, store in a safe place. Second step, remove rear window... 1)Remove rear windshield wiper, unlplug rear defroster. 2)Remove plastic covers from bolt heads for rear window mount brackets. Remove four bolts. Carefully detach weatherstripping from body. 3)Lift Window from body, store in a safe place. Third step, install tailgate trim... 1)Carefully remove tailgate panel with panel popper or flat head screwdriver (being careful not to scratch paint). 2)Install new weatherstripping/molding. 3)Reinstall rear cover panel. Make sure that the molding overlaps the panel along the top edge of panel. 4)*OPTIONAL* reinstall the mounting bolts and plastic covers so as not to lose them before hard top reinstallation. Fourth step, install softtop... 1)Mount latches to body where leading edge of softtop meets body (same place and mounting hardware as brackets that hold hard top to body). 2)Install plastic trim/side window retainers. There will be two bolts, one nut, and three phillips head screws per side. 3)Put soft top frame into place. Line up two bolt holes per side. Bolt down with four (two each side) 12mm head bolts. 4)Reinstall plastic trim that was between roll bar and rear side windows. This will leave a clean, factory look. 5)Install canvas top if not already installed. 6)Install rear window, zip into place. 7)Lock top into place with latches at front top. 8)Install side windows by zipping into place. Tuck bottom edge of side windows into place under the plastic trim/window retainers. Fifth step, enjoy... 1)Remove side window curtains... reverse of installing. 2)Unzip rear window, lay window down leaving bar installed in place. 3)Unlatch top... fold top back. 4)Climb in drivers seat... insert key into position, turn clockwise, put into gear... DRIVE! Much better!

Is there a serpentine belt diagram available?

http://www.mjw.com/amigo/images/belt.jpg

This belt should be changed when medium to large cracks are visible in the grooves of the belt (if you can see the white threads change it soon). Most belts last about 30-45K. The OEM belt costs about 17 bucks from St. Charles and it took me and my father about 5 minutes to replace. The easiest way to relieve tension from the belt tensor is to place a 1-2 foot pipe on the end of your socket wrench (this will give you more torque).

My Truck takes a long time to start (cranks an excessive length of time).

Leaking fuel pressure regulator is the common cause:

photo of the fuel pressure reg

http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/785.html

Quote from the above link:

The original symptom was a Check Engine Light with a #6 cylinder misfire code of P0306 when set at idle, or a random misfire P0300 when set while driving. The #6 was obviously running rich as indicated by the the spark plug. Eventually it became a hard start also. Here's the fix: The fuel pressure regulator was leaking fuel down it's manifold pressure vacuum line. The vacuum line attaches to the manifold right above the #6 port, that's why the richness only in that cylinder.

Fuel pressure regulator part # for 1999 Rodeo: 8-17113-398-0

Cost $54 from St. Charles Auto, http://isuzu.stcharlesauto.com/ (my local dealer's cost is $75. St. Charles Isuzu got it to me overnight for $65 which is cheaper than the local dealer sells it for. Funny that I could get it quicker and cheaper from Wisconsin than from the dealer down the street here in California). I was in contact with a guy named Merlin. Great service.

See below for tips on changing this part in a 1999 V6 Rodeo M/T.

Read the whole thing prior to starting the job. I replaced the regulator in about 40 minutes and I wasn't rushing. It seems to have completely fixed these problems:

1) Erratic Idle (needle now rock solid at 750 RPM)

2) Frequent stalling at idle - doesn't stall at all

3) Hard starting - starts like it used to. No need to give it gas

. 4) Intermittent CEL light - gone The regulator has no electrical connections.

It is a diaphragm operated relief valve mounted on the fuel rail. Before attempting to change the part, you need to ensure that you remove all fuel pressure from the system. The following procedure from the service manual works like a charm. I used this procedure and there was absolutely no fuel pressure in the system. No fuel leakage at all when I removed the regulator. Fuel Pressure Relief Procedure (works great).

1) Remove the fuel cap.

2)Remove the fuel pump relay from the underhood relay box.

3) Start the engine and allow it to stall.

4) Crank the engine for 30 seconds.

5) Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Caution - to reduce the risk of fire and injury, it is necessary to release fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components. Even after relieving fuel system pressure, a small amount of fuel will likely be released when servicing fuel line connections. Cover fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting the fittings in order to absorb any fuel that may leak out.

Leave the fuel pump relay out and the battery disconnected while you change the part.

Changing the part on a 1999 Rodeo is a bit different than the service manual shows. The regulator does not screw into the fuel rail. It sits down into the rail and is held in place by a snap ring.

Once you have removed the fuel line and the bracket that blocks access to the regulator you will clearly see the regulator and the snap ring. Before you start the job make sure that you have a pair of snap ring pliers that fit.

Use the new snap ring that comes with the part to ensure your tool will do the job. You will also need to modify a 6mm allen wrench by cutting the short end to within approximately 1/4" of the 90 degree bend. You will need it to remove the rear most of the 2 bolts that mount the bracket that is over the regulator. Ideally you should have two 6mm allen wrenches, an unmodified one for the front bolt and the modified one for the back bolt.

For ease of removal of the snap ring that holds the regulator in place on the fuel rail, it can be easily rotated once you have access to it by hand using the fuel line nipple for leverage. This enables you to turn it to a position where the snap ring is easily maneuvered out. Make sure that you remove all parts of the old regulator from the fuel rail before attempting to install the new one. Make sure that you remove the large blue o-ring, the wire mesh screen and the small black o-ring from inside the fuel rail. Just make sure that you remove all of the parts that you see on the new regulator.

Once you have it all back together, install the fuel pump relay and hook up the negative battery cable. Also make sure that you put the fuel cap back on. Start it up. Done.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=159663&page=2

How do I remove the stereo and speakers from My Rodeo/Amigo?

http://www.carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalIsuzuRodeo2Str.htm

http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalIsuzuAmigo1FSpkR.htm

http://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalIsuzuAmigo1RSpkR.htm

http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Isuzu/PDF/478001.pdf

What does my warranty cover?

http://www.isuzu.com/owners_warranty_2000to2002.jsp

How do I keep my fog lights on with high or low beams?

To keep your fog lights on with high or low beams, is an easy procedure.

To start with, pop off the carrier that holds the three switches to the left of the steering wheel using a flathead on the bottom of the carrier about a quarter inch off the two bottom corners and it will fall right out.

From there, snip the Yellow/Red wire (#4, second from the end) in the diagram.

Then ground the tail of the switch (the wire coming out of the switch), I grounded mine to the cigarette lighter. The ground wire on the cigarette lighter is the wire that attaches to the side of the back of the lighter.

Put everything back together and now you will be able to run your fogs on with high and low beams.

The alarm goes off randomly:

Rodeo: It's the tailgate switch. Open the door, take off the 2 Phillips head screws that hold the pin switch on (the one that controls the light) and stick two or three washers behind the switch under each screw.

Where can I check for Recall and/or TSB info?

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recallsearch.cfm

http://www.alldata.com/recalls/index.html

I have a trouble code but what does it mean?

http://www.troublecodes.net/isuzu/iszuobd2.shtml

Can I install a super charger?

http://www.azwildfire.com/isuzu/supercharger.htm

http://www.azwildfire.com/isuzu/photos.htm

I would like to install a hitch, where can I buy it and now do I install it?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/

How to article: http://www.azwildfire.com/isuzu/hitch.htm

Do you have the Amigo song from 1998 (what goes down stairs sometimes in pairs . . . )?

http://www.geocities.com/treading_lightly/amigo.wav

What are some other Isuzu related Message forums?

Planetisuzoo

Automotiveforums

4x4Wire

How can I tint my Amigo's sunroof?

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/54

How can I Dynamat my Amigo/Rodeo?

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/49

How do I stop that popping noise when I open my door on my 98 and newer Rodeo or Amigo?

First make sure the door check is tight. Then tighten the two 10mm head nuts on the door. Now, drive the pin at the door check up and remove the pin. Then remove the plastic bushing.

Now install the new brass bushing from your local "Planet Friendly" Isuzu dealership.
The part number is: P/N 8-97302-978-0

Then reinstall the pin and your done. You will be much happier with the sound from your door. If your truck is still under the 3-year, 50,000 mile warranty Isuzu will cover it for you.

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/39

Where are there Isuzu Off Road events?

http://www.zuzoo.org/index.shtml

http://www.trailseeker.com/

Where Can I purchase a manual at?

You may contact the publisher of the manual, HELM Inc. by calling 1-800-782-4356 or by writing them direct at:

HELM Inc.
Publications Division
P.O.Box 07280
Detroit Michigan 48207

Where can I purchase a hard top for my Amigo?

Aftermarket: http://www.mjw.com/hardtop/index.shtml

OEM used: http://www.car-parts.com/

Squeaking sound coming from the hood, how do I fix it?

The squeak is coming from the rubber bumpstops where the hood rests on. Find the side that is squeaking and give it a 1/2 turn and a dab of grease on top of the rubber bump stop.

Are there any Isuzu news sites?

http://www.isuzunewsbureau.com/

How do I reprogram my keyless entry fob?

'98 - '02 Isuzu Rodeo and Trooper (with factory keyless entry) Instructions for programming 1. Get in car and make sure all doors are unlocked. 2. Open driver's door and leave open. 3. Put key in ignition. 4. Turn key to 'on position' (dash lights on, but do not start) and back to 'off position' 3 times in 5 seconds or less. (you must turn the key very fast) 5. Close and open driver's door 2 times in 5 seconds or less. 6. Turn key to 'on position' and back to 'off position' 5 times in 5 seconds or less. (turn key very fast) 7. Close and open driver's door the doors should lock and unlock twice after this happens push the lock or unlock button on the remote, doors will lock and unlock. Push the lock or unlock button a second time and doors will lock and unlock again. You are finished! The above sequence erases all previous codes and adds the new code as #1. If you are adding a second remote, you should follow the same sequence with the exception of step 6; instead of turning the key to the 'on position' and back to the 'off position' 5 times in 5 seconds or less, do it 3 times in 5 seconds or less and then continue to step 7. ***Remember to turn the key to the on and off position very fast.

How TOD (TORQUE-ON-DEMAND) works?

http://www.autoworld.com/news/Isuzu/Torque.htm

How do I check the fluid level on my Tranny?

On the 1998-2004 (except Direct inject engines) the transmission is a sealed unit and doesn't have a dipstick. To check it the truck should be warmed up but not excessively hot. With the e-brake on an the wheels blocked, start the engine, place your shifter in neutral, remove the upper fill plug on the transmission and the fluid should just dribble out.

More tranny info

What the heck is Direct Injection?

http://www.popsci.com/popsci/bown/2003/article/0,18881,534655,00.html

http://www.edmunds.com/news/autoshows/articles/96999/page012.html

Currently, only two gasoline automobiles sold in the U.S. have direct injection for their engines

 — the BMW 760Li and the Rolls Royce Phantom. Next year, Isuzu will debut a 3.5-liter V6 with

this state-of-the-art fuel delivery system.

Direct injection (DI) is just that; fuel is sprayed directly into the cylinder, as opposed to normal

fuel injection that sprays the gasoline inside the intake port. Direct injection is done at very high

pressure, which promotes more complete combustion, and the more precise metering also lowers both emissions

and fuel consumption.

I'm sporadically losing power, what can it be?

First if you have a CEL, find out what the code is (Autozone will read it for free). The next reason could be due to a bad battery (Factory batteries are usually good for about 3-4 years) and/or an alternator that is on the way out. If the battery is not properly charged or if the alt is not putting out enough or to much current, the ECU will do some pretty funky things (rough running engine and tranny that shifts hard or feels like it is slipping). Also, if you recently replaced your plugs on your 2000-2004 with any other plugs then Denso K16PR-P11 it may cause the ECU to toss a code and may not run very well (keep in mind that some 2000 came with Champion plugs from the factory, but they may cause the engine to knock). The 2000-2004 engines have the GM/delphi "ion sensing" ignition system where the spark plugs are used as a sensor (when they are not firing) to measure the electrical resistance of the gasses in the combustion chamber. Other plugs may cause the ECU to register a code (misfire code: P1340).

How do I replace the bulbs in my tailights?

Rodeo/Amigo: There are 2 screws on the side and one under (between light and bumper) Light should then pull out to where you

 can unplug your connection

How to change the Rear diffy Fluid:

Step by Step For Rodeo and Amigo:

1. Loosen the fill bolt (so it is easier to remove while the diffy cover is off) with a socket extension on your

socket driver.

2. Loosen/ remove the track bar left hand side (I remove the nut from the leftside).

3. Place the pan below the diffy, lossen all the bolts, and smack it a couple of times with a rubber mallet. Let

the oil start to drain a bit. (If you remove all the bolts at once you could end up taking an oil bath once your

 smack it with the rubber hammer).

4. Continue to loosen the bolts and drain the oil.

5. Once you have most of the oil out remove the cover. Clean the mateing surfaces with a putty knife (if this is

your first time since the truck was new you will find they used gasket maker stuff).

6. Replace the gasket with a paper gasket (if you want to use the make a gasket stuff that is fine but it will be

a mess the next time it comes to change) Fel-Pro # RDS 6629 (7 bucks for the paper gasket at most autoparts stores

). The benifit of the paper gasket is the next time you change it it will just pop right off and no or little

putty knife work is need. If you dab a little axle grease on the diffy housing it will help to keep the gasket

 inplace.

5. Replace the cover, tighten it down (use a crossing patteren while tighting).

6. Fill with diffy fluid (note if you need oil with limited slip additive), a cheap 5buck hand pump will help to

 keep you clean (the hand pump screws onto the top of the oil bottle) and you can use it again and again over the

 years.

7. Tighten up the track bar and replace the fill bolt and your ready to roll!

My factory 6 disk CD player died (ERR3) what can I do?

Don't feel bad, Isuzu's 6 disk cd changes are notorious for dieing after a couple of year.  If you are out of your warranty, you can either

 ditch the 6disk and radio and purchase a new CD player (maybe one that plays MP3's?), which will be more powerful and will

sound better.  Or you can try out the following with your paper weight of a CD Player:

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/001245.html

From my most excellent dealer, Tom Benson Isuzu
CD Changer codes and descriptions
Err 1 - loaded disc is dirty or improperly inserted
Err 2 - no CD inside the CD changer
Err 3 - CD changer problem, cannot play
Err 4 - over current, cannot play
WAIT - high temperature, cannot play
Err 3 - How to reset:
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Depress the eject button 50 times, turn the key on and depress the brake,

turn the key off and reconnect the battery cable. The lights on the CD changer will flash orange-green. As soon

 as this stops, depress the Eject button. This may release (eject) the CDs.

or try this:

My CD Changer decided to keep all six of my CDs hostage and than gave me a rude "Err3". I read a post on here a

while back that says a fix is to whack it on the side immediatly after hitting eject.
I'm not one to hit things like that, but in a moment of weakness - I did it.
Out they all came, and it works great now. I have tempeted fate by putting them back.

or try this

Ok here's is what I do, make a fist and hit the side of the CD player just after hitting the eject button. I

 would usually whack it with the side of the fist about 3 times and it should spit out the CD in question. I've

 done this with my Amigo and the VX.

if that doesn't work try this

Take the CD player out of the dash. Carefully take the screws out of the lid. Once the lid is open and you can

see the mechanics of the CD player, locate the little blue eye in the area where the CD fits. It should be all

the way in next to the spindle. 

Now, go in the house and get a bottle of non-ammonia windex, mix a few squirts of that and a few drops of rubbing

 alcohol into a cup. Now you have "Professional" lens cleaner! 

Get a Q-tip, B-tip, or whatever cotton swab your family uses. Dip the swab into the Windex/Alcohol mixture and

 then wring the excess liquid off with your fingers. Just pinch the tip and squeeze all of the excess out. (You

 don't want enough on the swab to drip and run down the side of the eye.) lightly twist the tip of the swab on

the eye (like you would if you were screwing it into your ear). Do not press hard as you can knock it out of

 alignment. It will feel springy... that is ok, just don't bear down on it. 

Now flip the swab over to the dry side and dry the eye using the same motion you used to clean it. 

Put the lid back on, reinstall, and enjoy your tunes!

Or if you just have to have that 6 disk changer buy one from ebay or http://www.car-parts.com/  or

Send your changer to these guys and they will fix it for 250.00

http://www.carstereohelp.com/isuzu.htm

I would like to add a high flow air filter, which one?

Be careful not to over oil your filter or oil may have carried over to the mass airflow sensor (MAF) just

 downstream of the air filter box. A fouled MAF will cause the concerns you describe & does not always

light up the check engine light. Pull out the MAF & CAREFULLY clean it with cotton swabs & electrical

contact cleaner.

You have a couple of options.  You can remove your air box and add a Calimini or K&N cone air filter:

http://www.pureisuzu.com/hi-flow_air_filter1.htm

http://www.geocities.com/treading_lightly/knfilter.html

The problem with the the cone is that they will suck lots of hot dirty air from the engine bay.  Many have noted

that they have seen a decrease in MPG (more air in = more gas)

Cone airfilter definitely makes the engine breathe better but more air in will mean more fuel to some degree but

 not to the extent that it will cause ANY problem. The computer and O2 sensors take care of adjusting the mix.

There is a little bit of a torque loss with the cone filter due to the extra hot air ingested but a simple airbox

 ‘wall’ can be created to negate that.

If you do change your filter (to high flow or OEM) make sure you reset the ECU, by disconnecting the battery for

 15 minutes.  The ECU will then relearn the new components that were added to give you the best MPG.

How to remove the air box:

there are 3 bolts to remove.2 inside the box and one on the outside (between the engine and the filter box). The

 one on the outside has a nut to remove and a stud to remove. Once you remove the bolts, the lower half of the

filter box will come out. Look on the inside of the elbow and remove the s shaped thing by pushing down on it. Now

you can remove the elbow. I had to use a screw driver to pry it out.

More Notes on hot air:

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/002137.html

The outside air temp was 97, temp gauge only goes up to 160

Location filter box- 
10mph: 155
30mph: 112
60mph: 107

Location intake man- 
10mph: 160+
30mph: 160+
60mph: 150

Still want to use an unshielded cone filter?

If you do you should make your own heat shield

 like this:

custom intake tube:

http://hometown.aol.com/donsteph29/page1.html

OR

You can install a drop in panel filter:

Drop in K&N helps a bit but again the biggest restriction is the elbow through the fender - remove that before

you invest in a drop in (pull the stock airbox and you will see the black plastic elbow).

If you take the air box off to work on the elbow you will see that the elbow will actually come off without

cutting! It takes a little shimmying to get the sucker off, but it WILL come off without any cutting.

Here's what Dave Chang did:
I cut open the air passage on the stock airbox and used a propane torch to seal the cut seams. Then I used a

3" PVC attached to a rubber coupling joint inserted into the hole in the fender to force the airbox to breathe

 air outside the engine bay. Running the K&N panel filter for stock airbox.

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum39/HTML/000623.html

I want to replace my rubber bushings with poly ones, where can I buy some?

Contact the guys in the below link to see if they can help (let me know if they can help because I do not know if they can):

http://www.energysuspension.com/

Link to independent4x  Contact Matt, he has poly products, and see if he has what you need for your Isuzu!

What does the Power and Winter buttons do?

Power button does.
He checked with Isuzu engineers (so he told me): It does not increase power. It does not change timing. It does

 not affect the engine in any way. It does remap the auto transmission shift-up and shift-down points (but that

 doesn't count as changing "gearing" -- all the ratios remain the same, you'll just see shift points move to

different rpms).

"Winter" simply starts the vehicle in third gear. It's intended for very slick conditions.

Possible ways to help sensitive ABS brakes

How to fix that over-sensitive system by Jeff Rouse:

My brakes sucked. A crack in the road would set the ABS off. I did a few things and it works way better now. After I took my Amigo back to the dealer ("everything checks out within manufacturers specs" ) for difficulty stopping twice, I bled the brakes. This made a HUGE difference. Cost: $0

Then I had some Earl's Plumbing steel braded brake lines custom made (I added 2" in front and 4" in back for future mods) and replaced all five stock rubber lines. HUGE, HUGE improvement. $150

Then I lifted my truck 3" and put rancho 9000's on. I don't know why but this helped quite a bit too. Maybe from it not getting jarred so hard when I'd hit a bump. Beats me, it helped a lot. $400 CP style lift.

I put 265/75/16 Futura Dakata's all around. Good improvement. $510 for five tires - mounted, etc

Next I changed brake pads all around. Axxis metal master. Some improvement. $70 *note, non-OEM pads have a tendency to squeal with used with OEM rotors.

Finally, I swapped the front rotors for Powerstop cross-drilled rotors. (I tow a lot, slotted are better for most people). I left the rear stock - for now. Great improvement in stopping, some improvement in ABS. $230 for the pair.

At first I thought my ABS didn't work anymore, because it didn't' come on for at least six months. Then when driving in the snow I jammed the brakes on one day and... it was still there working like ABS should. Since then it has only come on a few times, and only under extreme braking on bumpy surfaces.

How Performance Chips work?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-injection5.htm

How to Turn the ABS light off?

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=193043

The owners manual states stop the car immediately. Shut it off, start it up again and for about

quarter to half mile do not exceed 8 mph, go slow and the light will shut off. If the light comes back on,

repeat the same. If it does not go off or it returns, have it serviced.

Rodeo or Amigo Dash rattle sound?

It was the part where the bolt comes through the front of the dash right next to the windshield between

 the defrost vents. It's hidden by a removable plastic cover that you can easily pry off with a small

screwdriver. I just removed the nut and inserted a washer that's rubber on one side and metal on the

other and tightened it down snugly. I can finally drive my truck without having to feel around the dash

to pinpoint the rattle.

It could also be worn hood hinges:

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000395.html

http://club.vmag.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/000482.html

Where in the antifreeze drain plug on the block?

For my car '99 Passport 3.2 V6 4WD, the plug was 27mm and located directly above 
the starter and accesible with a regular 6 point socket a 20" 1/2 drive 
extension and a long breaker bar.

All the coolant poured right out, with the front end of the car on stands.

Transmission leaking possibilities?

its leaking from from right above the small pan on the passenger side from a large metal

circle with a rubber gasket inside

The leak itself is coming from a circular object which is inserted into the side of the

 transmission about midway back on the right side. The object (is this a plug?) is about 1.5"

 in diameter and is held in place by an internal C ring. Looks like it has a bad O-ring or something.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=184133&highlight=leak

http://www.bassler.us/4l30e.jpg

the accumulator piston cover/gasket. This is a common issue with IIRC- 1996-2000 4L30E's.

Isuzu put out a TSB in regards

Transmission filter replacement and partial fluid swap?

Link to writeup

So we get down there, look at it and determine what to do. * Support drivetrain on the t-case skid plate with jack. * Unbolt twisted, bent t-case/tranny crossmember. * Remove brake/fuel line heat shield protecting said lines from the crossmember. * Unbolt tranny support from crossmember and move crossmember out of the way. * Remove tranny support from the tranny. * Drain flid from tranny pan (2 plugs, one low, one high[allen head]). * Once fluid has drained, unbolt the pan from the tranny and set aside. * Unbolt filter from the tranny and discard. * Remove gasket material left on the tranny and pan. * Clean gasket mounting etc with a solvent on tranny and pan. * Remove magnet from bottom of pan and clean all metal dust remnants from magnet, and wipe out pan after all fluid has been drained.

[rant on]Since some BRAINIAC at GM/Isuzu designed the 4L30E WITHOUT a dipstick or any other way to fill the fluid, you get to take a bath in Mercron, no two ways around it... :mad: Remember the allen head plug I referenced, well that is the overflow aka FILL plug too!!! So, since the overflow hole parallel to the ground, how do you suppose you place fluid vertically into a pan that holds the fluid, maybe 3" below that hole? WTF, some people shouldnt live, or breed as the case might be.[/rant]

* Install new filter on the tranny, round hole down. * Fill up the pan with 6-7 pints of fluid (nearly to the overflow line. * With two people, lift up full pan to the tranny, and stick 2 bolts in opposing corner with each person (all 4 corners are bolted) * Complete the installation of the tranny pan, and reverse process for the crossmember, support, and jack.

What did the filter look like after 85K and yearly flushes on a 99?

It was full of contaminants... metal sludge (akin to a aluminum paste).
No chunks of metal, just sludge, again with the paste... thick and gooey, like aluminum colored mud.

faulty transmission range sensor

I've had a problem with hard shifting on-and-off for over a year. It usually happens only in the morning, and is always after the dash light fails to indicate that the truck is in drive. I had the codes read at a dealer last June, and got back a P0705 code. Is this the range sensor malfunction? If so, any recommendations on what needs to be done and where to get it looked at?

I had the same problem with my 99 Passport. I was able to remove my range sensor, take it apart and clean the contacts inside. I remember it was quite dirty and greasy inside. I think they used too much dielectric grease in it, but the contacts were definitely dirty so I cleaned them reassembled it and I have never had the problem come back. The unit is located on the side of the transmission (drivers side) just forward of center. It's been well over a year since I fixed it, but if I remember right to remove it there was a small metal shield that pops off. Then I had to remove 2 bolts and 1 nut that holds the shifter arm and unplug the wire harness (the wire harness was a little difficult to unplug due to the tight space) and the unit will just slide right out. You will need a torx driver to take apart the unit. I wiped most of the grease out of mine; I left some of the grease there so things will slide properly and to keep moisture out. Depending on how dirty the contacts are you can clean them with a pencil eraser or a very, very fine sand paper. Don't spend the 90+ dollars for a new one this is a fairly easy fix, once you see the inside you won't think it's worth the price tag! It should take you about 45-60 min to repair.

Intermittent wiper function has failed

Intermittent wiper function has failed, (it begins to sweep, and stops about 1/4 of the way through the cycle, AND wipers stop in position when turned off. (they do not return to a home position).

It stops working due to a bad relay chip on a circuit board (I have this same problem- Ryan). You can replace the whole board for 200 bucks or you can replace the one chip (no clue as to who to buy it from). Here are a couple of write ups and picture of the board:

The faulty part was the alarm control unit. It controls the front and rear wipers as well as part of the alarm system.

The part was number is 8-97240-466-0 its made by Denso for Isuzu.
Cost $ 210.11 from Austin Isuzu. Kind of expensive, but I did save on their labor charges.

It is located behind the dash under the right hand vent. To access it you should remove the glove box (1 screw on each hinge) There is another black control unit below the light grey box you are replacing. This black box is held in by 2 screws. I removed this box (also part of the alarm) There was no need to disconnect the wire going to it (Black box), there was plenty of slack.

Remove the one screw securing the alarm control unit and slide the unit down and out. there are two clip in plugs that connect it to the wiring harness. Plug these into the new part and test your wipers before completing the installation. Becareful not to drop any of the screws you remove, because if you have to pull the kick panel off, it can be tough getting the grommet back together through the hole in the carpet.

I have pictures to show the placement of the part, but once you have the new part in your hand and the glove box off, it is pretty easy to spot looking up and to the right of the vehicle from the passenger side footwell.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=223464&highlight=wiper

photos:

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=20764&password=&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

since February 2004

Last updated: 21 Oct 2004